Author Topic: Enya .15 (Read 218335 times)

mike londke · « **on:** February 08, 2015, 06:20:39 PM »

LHS had a pair of NIB Enya .15's . They are marked Enya 15-III also Model 3303. Would these be any good to convert to CL for some .15 sized planes? Value?

George Hostler · « **Reply #1 on:** February 09, 2015, 01:18:42 AM »

Quote from: mike londke on February 08, 2015, 06:20:39 PM

LHS had a pair of NIB Enya .15's . They are marked Enya 15-III also Model 3303. Would these be any good to convert to CL for some .15 sized planes? Value?

Can't say on the value, they seem to go reasonably cheap on E-Bay. I took it's cousin, the Enya .15-III TV (RC throttle version), wired it's throttle wide open and temporarily replaced the OS Max .15FP-S on my Junior Ringmaster. With an 8x6 Masters plastic prop, I was getting the same lap speed on 50 foot lines as my OS Max Schneurle with 8x4 Masters plastic prop. Seems to have deccent power.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #2 on:** February 09, 2015, 10:43:23 AM »

I have a small handful of these and the .19s that were R/C but converted with Venturi from Jim Lee. They are superb little engines. Jim already has the dimensions from doing mine so give him a call. Likely the best C/L engines this size to be had nowadays.

Dave

mike londke · « **Reply #3 on:** February 09, 2015, 12:22:05 PM »

Thanks guys.

George Hostler · « **Reply #4 on:** February 09, 2015, 08:57:10 PM »

You're welcome, Mike, and by the way, the .15 Enya does do a decent wet-2/fast-2/wet-2 in stunts.

kenneth cook · « **Reply #5 on:** February 10, 2015, 03:51:34 AM »

Mike, I found the 3303 to be somewhat problematic. The Enya especially new takes hours of running so that it doesn't overheat and sag. The LA comes out of the box , bolts on and your flying minutes later. The Enya's were typical in terms of tight fits and this one is no different. These will last a long time if you can put up with the break in. The 3303 has web casting obstructions within the exhaust stack which I feel retains more heat than the 3304 version. In addition the liner is very thick in this engine which heat soaks quickly when shut off making hot starts very problematic. The 3304 has a slightly larger cylinder head which I feel was made to improve on cooling. The bolt pattern is the same as the LA .15, but I found the LA to be a better option. The engine crankcase of the Enya is slightly longer so unless your fuse was designed for both, swapping out isn't a simple option. I certainly didn't find that this engine liked 8"props as others mentioned on Akromaster like planes. For me, it worked far superior in performance with a 7" and it didn't want to overheat as much. While the standard OS spraybar fits the case for the .20-.46, the .15 size is better due to it being thinner if using stock Enya venturi . If possible, find the Enya spraybar and needle. Ken

RandySmith · « **Reply #6 on:** February 10, 2015, 09:01:43 AM »

Quote from: mike londke on February 08, 2015, 06:20:39 PM

LHS had a pair of NIB Enya .15's . They are marked Enya 15-III also Model 3303. Would these be any good to convert to CL for some .15 sized planes? Value?

They make fine little engines, but they do need a full breakin , I may have the 15 NVAs in stock for the 15s, I think the 09 used the same.

Randy

George Hostler · « **Reply #7 on:** February 10, 2015, 04:59:12 PM »

Haven't had overheating problems with my Enya 15-III's so far and that is at this 4,300 feet elevation here in the High Plains of NM bordering TX Panhandle. But then my Enya's are well broken in and I don't run them on high nitro fuels. Did push a little at 10% and 15% nitro, but not higher. Don't see the advantage to running them on smaller props. Peak HP tops out at lower RPM than the Schneurles. Peter Chinn observed in http://www.sceptreflight.net/Model%20Engine%20Tests/Enya%2015-III%20CL.html that there wasn't much point running props smaller than 8x4, highest HP on 5% nitro was 12,400 RPM at 0.22 HP. Power drops off quickly at higher RPM's. I ran a T/F wood 7x6 on the Ringmaster Jr. with OS .15FP-S, it was just as happy with that as the Masters 8x4 as it develops power at higher RPMs.

Had similar issue with Enya 09-III TV, 7x3 prop on it ran very 049 like. 7x6 prop made my RC plane really move out like the sport Schneurles on 7x4 prop. Basically verified Peter Chinn's observation there was no point in running props smaller than 7x4 due to the sharp drop off in HP at higher RPM's. Enya cross scavenges are like that.

Sounds like you had an unusually tight engine, Ken.

Martin Quartim · « **Reply #8 on:** February 12, 2015, 09:15:33 AM »

When I started I used an Enya 15III and it worked best with a 9x4 prop. I break in my Iron Enyas between one and one and half hours, it depends how tight the engine is. I rather spent one one hour running the engine on the bench and end up with a super engine, then save just "one hour" and end up with a LAme engine built with cheap materials that will not last long and not as powerful.

Some complain that Enya engines takes hours and hours to break in, well if you do not have the proper technique it will never break in. A friend brought me back an Enya SS40 saying that after 4H the engine was still not good, and it wasn't, but I resolved the problem in 4 runs of 6min pinching the fuel line, like I do on the last part of the process I use, which follows:

10 runs of 1 min in a solid 4 stroke with the needle one hair open before it start to burble in 2. Let the engine fully cool before starting again
8 runs of 2min with the same setting
4 runs of 3 min same setting.
5 runs of 6 min with the needle in the same setting but this time pinch the fuel line to sustain peak rpm for 10s, then wait 20s and repeat pinching process til the end of the run. Start pinching the fuel line slowly and watch the rpm to increase slowly, if engine start to lower rpm you went to far, back up a bit. The idea here is to make the engine run as hard as it can for 10s. If you can, measure the maximum sustain RPM and you notice that this number will improve. If after 6 runs you still notice that the top rpm is still improving do a few more runs like this.

I suggest using a prop smaller then you fly.
Enya 09 7x4~5
Enya 15/19/20 8x4~5
Enya 25/30 9x4
Enya SS40 10x6

I have been doing this and my Iron Enya Engines works mighty well.

Also I found out that Enya engines like bigger props then popular prop size rules

Martin
p.s. I copy and pasted some old text to compose this message and before it was ready I posted. So I had to come back to edit and fix silly mistakes....sorry

George Hostler · « **Reply #9 on:** February 12, 2015, 06:40:11 PM »

Martin, got to concur with you there on your methodology.

I haven't gotten the discipline you have in a more precise break-in method, but similarly, I break them in using shorter runs on a 1 oz. tank, which gives my Enya's and other engines a couple minutes or less run depending on size. Works also well on the Testors. Don't use a large tank for running, like some do. The shorter heating and cooling cycles have worked for me thus far.

(I knew there was something more to it besides using the vintage engine test stand.)

Brett Buck · « **Reply #10 on:** February 12, 2015, 09:46:45 PM »

Quote from: Martin Quartim on February 12, 2015, 09:15:33 AM

When I started I used an Enya 15III and it worked best with a 9x4 prop. I break in my Iron Enyas between one and one and half hours, it depends how tight the engine is. I rather spent one one hour running the engine on the bench and end up with a super engine, then save just "one hour" and end up with a LAme engine built with cheap materials that will not last long and not as powerful.

Post some peaked out RPM numbers for your vastly superior iron-liner motor on a 9-4 APC. Then we will see how LAme some other engines are.

Brett

Chris Wilson · « **Reply #11 on:** February 13, 2015, 04:07:37 AM »

A 9x4 prop gives 10700 rpm according to the linked test.

Martin Quartim · « **Reply #12 on:** February 13, 2015, 05:54:31 AM »

" Engine is an old and worn out Enya 15 IV. It has almost no compression left but goes like a buttered rat if you whack it hard enough!"

I loved the part the Enya 15 is pulling the whole bench forward

Martin

George Hostler · « **Reply #13 on:** February 13, 2015, 07:48:08 AM »

I got an Enya .15-III TV like that, with low compression. Once it starts, it runs as good as a good compression one, just like a worn McCoy.

Some use a squirt bottle or can of Castor into the combustion chamber, to temporarily boost compression for start. I've used W10-40 motor oil from my refillable squirt can. Any thicker oil will help. If one has the newer thinner oils, they could add a viscosity thickener I imagine, like Luca Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer or STP oil treatment.

Chris Wilson · « **Reply #14 on:** February 13, 2015, 03:43:11 PM »

How hard DOES a buttered rat go when whacked hard?

(Never heard that saying before and it's as funnily as heck!)

Martin Quartim · « **Reply #15 on:** February 14, 2015, 09:39:14 PM »

Quote from: George Hostler on February 13, 2015, 07:48:08 AM

I got an Enya .15-III TV like that, with low compression. Once it starts, it runs as good as a good compression one, just like a worn McCoy.

Some use a squirt bottle or can of Castor into the combustion chamber, to temporarily boost compression for start. I've used W10-40 motor oil from my refillable squirt can. Any thicker oil will help. If one has the newer thinner oils, they could add a viscosity thickener I imagine, like Luca Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer or STP oil treatment.

Hi George,

You can get a new P/L from Enya for just $15,00! That is another reason why I like Enya Engines, they practice fair pricing for parts.

Martin

George Hostler · « **Reply #16 on:** February 14, 2015, 10:07:30 PM »

Quote from: Martin Quartim on February 14, 2015, 09:39:14 PM

Hi George, You can get a new P/L from Enya for just $15,00! That is another reason why I like Enya Engines, they practice fair pricing for parts. Martin

Martin, thanks, I've seen the part also available on E-Bay. I've got 4 Enya 15-III TV's. One I got in a SIG Wonder, the other is reserved for a Hobby Shack Real Thing. The other two are parts engines. I suppose I could revitalize a 3rd, but have enough other engines that these others are low priority.

As a buttered rat it really ran when whacked hard.

Steve Thomas · « **Reply #17 on:** February 16, 2015, 05:28:02 PM »

Quote from: Brett Buck on February 12, 2015, 09:46:45 PM

Post some peaked out RPM numbers for your vastly superior iron-liner motor on a 9-4 APC. Then we will see how LAme some other engines are.

Brett

I can't really get too excited about whether an Enya's better than an LA, but I've just made up a new test stand and like running old engines. I had a rummage in a drawer and came up with a decent 1966 15-III, an old early-'60s 15-II minus a couple of head fins, and a current SS15 (a Schnuerle ABC engine, for something a bit more comparable with an LA15). I ran them on 10% nitro with an APC 9x4 and an MA GF3 8x4. The results were interesting.

The old dinged-up 15-II did 12000 on the 9x4 and 14850 on the 8x4. The 15-III managed 11750 and 14550 respectively. I'd expected the 15-III to be the better of the two, but then again, it's only 49 years old and not as experienced. Still, for old baffle-piston engines, they seemed like pretty good results in both cases.

And the new SS15? 11300 on the 9x4, and 14500 with the 8x4. This really surprised me, as I expected it to leave the others in the shade, and my impression of it from when I was last running it a few years ago was that it was much stronger (IIRC it was good for 14200 with a Bolly 8.5x4). Maybe it's optimised for more nitro, or needs devarnishing or something. In any case, it's certainly not the quantum leap over the old engines that might be expected.

Someone else will have to fill in the blanks for the LA15, as I don't have one of those.

Steve

Allen Eshleman · « **Reply #18 on:** March 14, 2015, 07:59:15 PM »

I just bought an Enya 15 III. What fuel should I use?

Allen Eshleman · « **Reply #19 on:** March 15, 2015, 07:27:36 PM »

I have read this thread and some of the other threads about the Enya 15 III. The fuel recommendation I found in one of them was 10% nitro and half and half 20% or so lubrication. Is that pretty standard for these or does it need more castor.

It is used. I wonder if I should pretend that it is new and do some break in. The person I bought it from said that they cleaned it up. That doesn't tell me much about break it.

Any more thoughts would be helpful.

Chris Wilson · « **Reply #20 on:** March 15, 2015, 07:38:04 PM »

From Enya instructions -

Allen Eshleman · « **Reply #21 on:** March 15, 2015, 08:16:26 PM »

Thanks Chris,

I wonder if it hurts to use some synthetic lubrication. Obviously the instructions call for all castor.

Steve Thomas · « **Reply #22 on:** March 16, 2015, 05:39:21 AM »

I think you'll find that Enya's instructions almost invariably call for 100% castor, regardless of the engine. In practice I often use a synthetic/castor blend, particularly with the newer models. As long as you've still got plenty of castor, I doubt that a sensible amount of synthetic will do your 15-III any harm (unless it's got a lot of wear and is relying on castor varnish for compression).

Allen Eshleman · « **Reply #23 on:** March 16, 2015, 08:39:49 PM »

Thanks for the advice.

Fox used to have a 10% nitro, 20% castor fuel. I wonder who has that kind of fuel now.

Balsa Butcher · « **Reply #24 on:** March 17, 2015, 11:11:52 AM »

Sig makes a 25% all castor blend. I like to add some synthetic to it for a total of 25% castor, 2% synthetic. My Foxes, OS-35S' and Enya steel piston engines thrive on the stuff. Want more castor?, Powermaster GMA 10/29 is still available.

Allen Eshleman · « **Reply #25 on:** March 17, 2015, 08:25:28 PM »

I also saw that that Sig has some 10% nitro 20% castor. According to the instructions posted above 20% castor is enough. What would one use for sythetic oil?

Terry Caron · « **Reply #26 on:** March 18, 2015, 10:00:21 AM »

Klotz products are readily available Allen, check them out.

Terry

Chris Wilson · « **Reply #27 on:** March 18, 2015, 03:47:18 PM »

Quote from: Allen Eshleman on March 17, 2015, 08:25:28 PM

What would one use for sythetic oil?

Because synthetic oil contains detergents that remove castor glaze as it happens.

http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php/topic,27257.0.html

2. Correct Fuel: Fuel is one of the most important things in tuning an engine, You must make sure that you have the correct oil type and percentage for the engine your using, example Fox 35s, OS 35s, Older McCoy’s and such need high oil content fuels 24to29% is common percentages. Half castor is good in these type engines as long as percentage is right.
Modern ABC and AAC engines will use much lower oil, 18 to 22 % percentages are the norm here. Nitro percentage is also key to getting the best from your power plant, There are so many ways to run stunt engines it is impossible to print anything but guide lines.
I have written many times about fuel, you can get a copy of my Care and feeding of a stunt engine from the PAMPA archives, or on Stunt Hangar.
Typical Stunt engines will use 5% nitro in cold weather going to 10 or even 15% in hot months, You can get in trouble using, say 15% in January, this setup would need 25% or more to be the equivalent in August. So unless you really have this working it is best to setup your engine for lower nitro in cold months and higher nitro in hot months, this will help keeps the run constant thru out the year. Also it will help control power in your motor.

I have heard of fliers using full castor year round and having a tank full of full synth at the end of the season to 'clear the pipes' if that suits you.

Allen Eshleman · « **Reply #28 on:** March 19, 2015, 07:20:23 AM »

I have some RC fuel which I want to burn up. Once in awhile I mix an ounce or so into a quart of mostly castor fuel. I don't know if that does the cleaning job or not. I've decided to use up that fuel this way - a bit here, a bit there.

As I read the various responses above, it shows that the instructions call for 20% plain castor fuel. I see that some are using 25% and up to 29%. It is a used engine which I bought at a swap meet. I want to make sure I don't burn it up. I will eventually order fuel from Sig, if they are still making and selling it. At least that's the only brand I've found on the net that 20% and 25% castor fuel.

Brad LaPointe · « **Reply #29 on:** March 19, 2015, 10:46:50 AM »

Rich's Brew has 10% nitro , 20% castor fuel . We have used this fuel for many years in F2D combat with good results . Lots of other "brews" available . Order in advance if your not going first thing Friday morning . Fuel sells out quick ! Good prices .

If you ever want / need an excuse to visit to the Toledo show picking up fuel from Rich is a good one . Brodak also has a booth and the swap shop are other "excuses" to walk thru the heart of the RC nation .

Brad

Dane Martin · « **Reply #30 on:** March 19, 2015, 01:33:02 PM »

Quote from: Brad LaPointe on March 19, 2015, 10:46:50 AM

Rich's Brew has 10% nitro , 20% castor fuel . We have used this fuel for many years in F2D combat with good results . Lots of other "brews" available . Order in advance if your not going first thing Friday morning . Fuel sells out quick ! Good prices .

If you ever want / need an excuse to visit to the Toledo show picking up fuel from Rich is a good one . Brodak also has a booth and the swap shop are other "excuses" to walk thru the heart of the RC nation .

Brad

Also, you can call up rich's brew and they'll make you custom blends for the same price. I think you just gotta buy a case of 4

Allen Eshleman · « **Reply #31 on:** April 07, 2019, 03:05:52 PM »

I resurrected this thread because I was looking for it. It deals partly with the Enya 15-III. Unfortunately, I didn't heed the advice to start slowly with the Enya 15-III even though it was used. I made a mix of half and half - 10/10 5% and 29% castor 5 nitro for my first run. I gave it 3 1/2 oz of fuel. I started it and it ran great, best run ever with the Akromaster for 5 minutes. Then it slowed to a crawl for 5 minutes or so. I will post later when I get a chance to try to start it again. I fear I may have cooked it. I will post once I have a chance to start it again, which may be awhile.

Joe Ed Pederson · « **Reply #32 on:** April 07, 2019, 05:45:35 PM »

Allen,

Thanks for resurrecting this thread. I have a new Enya .15 III and haven't gotten around to breaking it in yet. I had found some other threads on the .15 III, but I hadn't seen reply #8 in this thread that goes into great detail on breaking-in procedures.

For what it's worth below is some information from the original owner's manual.

The owner's manual recommends a break-in prop of 9 x 3 for the .15 II. I would imagine the II and III would use the same break-in prop. It only has three sentences on the break-in procedure: "It is important to run the engine with slightly rich mixture during the break-in period. When the engine has a tendency to slow down or stop, it means that it is not yet fully broken in. It may take 2 to 4 hours running for the engine to reach its peak in power and smoothness." [So, maybe you haven't cooked it.]

The manual's recommended fuel is 0 - 30% nitro and 20% castor (no other recommendation for percentage of oil).

The CL/FF engine came with two venturis. Obviously the smaller venturi for CL. I measured the two venturis that came with my engine and one is roughly 6mm and the other roughly 7mm. You might want to check which venturi is installed on your motor.

The prop chart recommends an 8 x 5 or 8 x 6 for CL Stunt, 8 x 4 for FF, and 8.5/9 x 4 for RC.

The original muffler was the Enya M100. Mine didn't come with a muffler. I bought a different muffler on Ebay (Enya SM153). The SM153 is 2 1/2 ounces!

You can still get the Enya No. 3 glow plug on Ebay.

Again, thanks for bringing this thread back. I will probably follow the break-in procedure in reply #8. I have been using the break-in procedure at this web address: http://adriansmodelaeroengines.com/catalog/main.php?cat_id=10 The first page or two is on breaking -in diesels. Keep paging down till you find the break-in procedure for steel/iron nitro engines.

Joe Ed Pederson
Cuba, MO