stunthanger.com
Engine basics => Engine set up tips => Topic started by: Leo Mehl on November 27, 2007, 04:26:18 PM
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Get a gander at this test stand hand machined by Richard Entwhistle. I think he is going to market these. If interested his e-mail address is.sunshine mosquitonet.com. Great machining. I have seen it in person. y1 y1 HB~>
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That looks just like the ones my brother made back in the early 70's. Still using mine, don't know what happened to the rest of them. DOC Holliday
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Nice looking stands i would be intrested in one myself.
steve
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Nice looking stands i would be intrested in one myself.
steve
I got mine on Sunday, This thing will get a lot of use. And it's so pretty. HB~> HB~>
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Try to mount a Fox stunt 35 in it and let me know how it fits. Looks good if a Fox stunt 35 will go in and still be able to flip the prop and needle it.
somebody check it out for me so I can see if I want to buy one.
Bigiron
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Try to mount a Fox stunt 35 in it and let me know how it fits. Looks good if a Fox stunt 35 will go in and still be able to flip the prop and needle it.
somebody check it out for me so I can see if I want to buy one.
Bigiron
Marvin, The prop clearence is OK, but the clamp interpheres with the end of Supre Tigre needle valve but can easily be taken care of by beveling the clamp so the end of needle valve shaft will clear. Richard I am sure can do that just by asking.
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Thanks Leo. I was concerned that the back ends of the clamp plates might not clesr the two top backplate screws on the Fox 35. I recently bought a quite pricey wood test stand and the fox 35 could not be clamped up into it due to the backplate screws and lugs hit the ends of the clamp plates. also not enough prop clearance and like the one you state --no needle stem clearance.
I may see if I can procure one
Marvin
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Used Mine today. Super Tigre 51. worked real good. No chance of anything moving. Thanks Richard. #^ #^ #^ #^ #^ #^ #^ #^ #^ #^ #^ #^ HB~>
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Way to go Richard!!! Is he making more???
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Way to go Richard!!! Is he making more???
I think he has some already made.
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I think he has some already made.
Well ??? Some folks want details. How much? How to contact? I just wanna know why this thread is in this forum, vs. the engine forum, or general forum. Well, that, and how much, and how to contact Richard Entwhistle.
y1 Steve
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Well ??? Some folks want details. How much? How to contact? I just wanna know why this thread is in this forum, vs. the engine forum, or general forum. Well, that, and how much, and how to contact Richard Entwhistle.
y1 Steve
You can contact Richard at Sunshine@ mosquitonet.com. He will give prices and you ask too many questions. LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ HB~>
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Shore is purty, but the same 'ol problems exist...as above, can't get a Fox on it, can't mount a muffled engine on it without "remove and replace", and can't reach the needle valve. And how bout smaller engines, .10's .15's etc... or 1/2 A's...
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How 'bout some of you machinist types out there get creative.
Hold down the engine lugs with Urtnowski/Brodak type bars...(allows ez use of engines with mufflers. That big 3/8 in. nut hiding under the muffler isn't exactly user friendly. Don't forget the pins!)
How about a built-in graduated fuel reservoir. 6-8 ounces ought to do it.
While you are at it, here would be a great application for a remote needle valve. I suspect you could open the original one at the venturi all the way, then control the run with the remote? (Would that work Randy?)
A second model might even be set up to mount your tuned pipe.
Any other ideas ? :!
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ward-O,
Tried to post a comment to your earlier of the two above, pretty late last night, but timed out, or something...
Richard's test stand is beautifully done!
Engine test stand details are so basic, and of such long common use, that there can't be anything patented about them. Some of the concerns mentioned could be dealt with by picking the brains of others who have produced test mounts.
Examples:
...The recent J'Tec cast aluminum mounts use countersunk flush-head bolts inserted DOWN though the clamp, pedestal and base, where they are held on with a washer and nut. This also prevents the damage from the previous sliding carriage bolt method. The one negative about this is I haven't found high quality flush-head 1/4-20 bolts, so they need occasional replacement, every few years or so. Nothing sticks above the clamp to get in the way of a muffler or whatever. (The base projects a bit forward from whatever it mounts on, to give access to the nut and washer underneath.)
... Every test mount I've used since the small, wooden E-Z-Just's of the 1950s had locating pins for the front holes in the engine lugs. I'd trust that better than any slick clamp... The pins were far enough forward on the pedestals that just about every engine gave clearance for NVA and needle operation (except for an occasional small diesel with the NVA raked back.)
... The pedestals also sat flush to the front edge of the base. The old wooden E-Z-Justs actually had a milled step on the base to align them that way!
... The (Fox 35/DS40/B40, etc. type) upper backplate-bolt 'ears' have always required tilting the clamps a bit away at the back, and there's usually enough clearance to allow for it, and still have the engine solidly secured.
... Every stand I've used had a permanent 'bump' or shoulder at the far side of the pedestal from the engine. Richard's stand appears to have adjustable screws there. Nice, a 'square-mounted' clamp should do better than the tilt from the 'fixed' shoulder types.
... Some engines, mostly older types with the 3 backplate bolts, reach too far below the pedestal tops to fit available test stands. Some of the sparkers, which often had their mount lugs seat about 1/4" above the shaft center line, AND that third backplate-bolt ear center bottom just don't fit. I've added an extension of 1/4" hardware store extruded aluminum strip to raise the pedestals on a J'Tec mount (J-B Weld slow works!) ...found I needed even more for a Forster "35," because the shape of the lower crankcase widens from the where the mounts join the 'case. Had to make up an additional riser: a 1/8" base to clamp into the stand, topped with a 1/4" sq aluminum strip shaped to clear the crankcase's bulge. Both drilled through for the engine's mounting bolts...
If Richard is interested in any of these ideas, he's welcome to them. As I mentioned above, common usage already exists on much of this. "Borrowing" an idea is actually a compliment to the guy borrowed from, no?
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Lou, thanks for your response. All responses are welcome on this forum
This mount (however pretty) Is still a 1940's design.
But...
This is 2008.
Engines change.
Thoughts change.
Technology changes.
Technology causes differant needs.
Folks, let's get better. We can, and should do better than borrowing from 1940.
No guys, I'm not saying I can do it. I don't want to. But someone out there can..........
Think into tomorrow. not yesterday.
w.
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W,
Any ideas on how to advance the engine test stand methods?
Where we might appreciate advances would be in reducing the clumsiness of mounting/dismounting engines to them.
Where else?
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W,
Any ideas on how to advance the engine test stand methods?
Where we might appreciate advances would be in reducing the clumsiness of mounting/dismounting engines to them.
Where else?
I think this test stand has done this. He has also cut out clerance so backplate bolds will clear and this moves Fox forward. This stand clamps solid both top and bottom. I have used it and there is no way the motor will move if properly mounted which is the secret to any test stand. This stand was not designed for 1/2 A engines.