Author Topic: ENGINE TEST STAND (Read 5114 times)

Ed OBrien · « **on:** October 24, 2019, 10:08:30 AM »

Years ago I had a great machined metal (as opposed to wood) engine test stand. I have a couple 2.5 cc diesels I would like to get running but no test stand. Does anyone still make metal test stands? I'm looking for something that I can bolt to a 1 X 6 board and then clamp that to something sturdy, like a picnic table.

Paul Smith · « **Reply #1 on:** October 24, 2019, 12:27:08 PM »

I can't help you on the metal stand. I'm using two stands, both over 50 years old, a cast metal Tatone unit and a WOOD EZ Just that still works.

The test stands are screwed to a heavy wood insert that fits onto a 2x4 push cart. I don't own a picnic table that I can afford to fuel-soak and I don't want trouble from the owner of the table.

I buy lumber from the 70% off cull wood cart at Home Depot. It's plenty good enough for this kind of work.

Dave Hull · « **Reply #2 on:** October 24, 2019, 02:02:21 PM »

There's a J-Tec stand on ebay right now. I would think it would fit a .15-sized engine no problem. And other choices in metal. Just search under "model engine test stand."

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JTec-Model-engine-mount-Test-stand-Nip/183999204194?hash=item2ad7350b62:g:N7sAAOSwYBpdqOER

Good luck!

Dave

Dave Moritz · « **Reply #3 on:** October 24, 2019, 02:09:44 PM »

The metal Tatone test stand shown in Paul's photos is apparently still available at MECOA. I got one from them and am happy with it.

Dave Mo...

944_Jim · « **Reply #4 on:** October 24, 2019, 04:25:22 PM »

I'll play the cheapskate advocate...assuming we aren't talking about a bunch of different engine sizes.
A 3"x8"x3/4" plywood could be cut for two different engine mounting patterns (one per end) and clamped to your table. Make two for four engines. A few spray can shots of your favorite enamel should hold up well enough for some diesel test runs, or just let the wood soak up the fuel residue.
However, if you plan on testing many engines, then a Tatone mount like the others mentioned would be best.

George Truett · « **Reply #5 on:** October 24, 2019, 05:14:29 PM »

Years ago I took the plunge and bought a PSP test stand. They are not inexpensive but it will outlast me and it is easy to use. I have seen several pop up on the sale forums lately.
http://www.pspmfg.com/RCEngineTestStand.html

944_Jim · « **Reply #6 on:** October 24, 2019, 09:26:52 PM »

Somebody STOLE that Jtec on eBay!
Sadly, it wasn't me.

Peter in Fairfax, VA · « **Reply #7 on:** October 24, 2019, 09:28:55 PM »

Link to the MECOA:

https://www.mecoa.biz/shopdisplayproducts.asp?catalogid=1965

Myself, I have a PSP and our club has a Tatone.

Both are mounted on this, or similar:

https://www.harborfreight.com/folding-clamping-workbench-with-movable-pegs-47844.html

Both stands are good for running an engine. I also use the PSP for engine photos on eBay, using one pf the two clamps.

Jim Kraft · « **Reply #8 on:** October 25, 2019, 05:49:02 AM »

Can not remember who made this stand. But it works very well. I made the simple frame to mount it on years ago so that I can tilt the engine what ever way I want while it is running. The stand itself came unassembled as a kit but very nicely made. It has run hundreds of engines for many hours.

Jim Kraft · « **Reply #9 on:** October 25, 2019, 02:55:13 PM »

Mine has steel pins for the front lug holes. Never had a problem.

BillP · « **Reply #10 on:** October 26, 2019, 06:24:38 AM »

If memory is right Tatone and jTec are the same stands made at different times. I have a Tatone mounted on a piece of 1/2" ply. Tatone made two different stands...small and large. Mine is the small and a late model Fox 60 is about the largest you can fit. Smallest I've mounted is a Fox 07. It has one steel roll pin on each side that can be removed if you don't want to use them.

Robert Zambelli · « **Reply #11 on:** October 27, 2019, 02:24:32 AM »

Brodak sells metal test stands.

Bob Z.

Dennis Toth · « **Reply #12 on:** October 27, 2019, 05:31:18 AM »

Ed,
The MECOA (http://www.mecoa.com/tatone/teststands/teststands.htm) test stand will bolt on to the plank, I have used a simple sawhorse from Home Depot as the base. This gets the whole thing at a height that allows operation without bending over. One thing to remember with the metal mount is to put some 1/32" plywood crush strips under the engine mounts for most of the older engines. These engines have a very slight draft angle to the bottom of the mount and when you tighten down on the mount clap it distorts the case. PAW, Fox, McCoy have this. They were built when we all just used maple mounts and the maple would just conform to the angle and all was good. Putting them on aluminum pads or metal test stand mount doesn't do this so use the ply crush strip.

Best, DennisT

GERALD WIMMER · « **Reply #13 on:** October 28, 2019, 04:19:16 AM »

Hello

Be careful clamping a test stand on wood to a bench or post , see:

Peter in Fairfax, VA · « **Reply #14 on:** October 28, 2019, 07:26:58 AM »

Though I hesitate to suggest that anyone would think to do this, but clamping one of the two lugs of an engine, either in a vise or screwed down, vibration can fatigue off the lug. The typical result is the engine comes loose and the engine case is broken.

Peter

Brett Buck · « **Reply #15 on:** October 28, 2019, 10:05:34 AM »

Quote from: BillP on October 26, 2019, 06:24:38 AM

If memory is right Tatone and jTec are the same stands made at different times. I have a Tatone mounted on a piece of 1/2" ply. Tatone made two different stands...small and large. Mine is the small and a late model Fox 60 is about the largest you can fit. Smallest I've mounted is a Fox 07. It has one steel roll pin on each side that can be removed if you don't want to use them.

I don't have any suggestions for the mount itself. I use the old CG test stand mount with a bunch of repairs (including clamps made from scraps of Shareen Fancher's new oak kitchen floor).

But I would suggest that 1/2" ply is not nearly stiff enough for most applications. My stand is made of a wooden utility box topped with a plate made of 7/8" particle board with formica laminated on it. It's a cutout for a sink in a countertop, and is extremely stiff, with the rock-hard laminate on one side. Nonetheless, and even though it is cantlievered only about 6" off the side of the box, at some frequencies, it vibrated severely at certain RPM (9400 or so), regardless of the engine. I had to double it up with a piece of 3/4 hardwood plywood to raise the frequency above the normal operating range of the engines I use.

The size of the engine doesn't make that much difference in this effect, the frequency at which it runs is the critical matter.

Brett

Ed OBrien · « **Reply #16 on:** October 28, 2019, 10:15:15 AM »

All,
Thanks for the input. If my memory is correct, I was turned on to my old mount by something in Stunt News. But that was probably prior to 1998, when we moved overseas.

Anyway, I will probably go with the plywood glued & screwed to something more substantial, maybe up to 2 X 4 about 24" long so I can clamp the whole thing to a picnic table or my Black & Decker Workmate which will fit into the trunk of my Civic). I have probably moved up to 3.5cc engines but will stick to one size and make of engine. If I go the picnic table route I plan to keep the engine a bit away from the table and see that no part of the table is downwind of the exhaust. Either way, I should be good to go.

I also had one of the old cast aluminum Tatone test stands was not impressed. It did't look like it had a good flat seat for the engine. The test stand I don't have $:-\$ was machined to a much greater level of precision.

Peter in Fairfax, VA · « **Reply #17 on:** October 28, 2019, 12:39:28 PM »

Bolting it to the workmate would work better than clamps. A couple of 1/4-20 sized holes will not destroy the workmate.

Though it depends on the property, carting the engine and stand half a mile from the house is a good idea to avoid annoying the neighbors. My early engine mentor taught me that, and it has stuck. In my case, there is an abandoned drug store in a commercial area by a busy highway. The test runs only serve to amuse passing motorists, especially the many veterans in my area that ride their Harleys to the shop nearby.

Peter

Jim Carter · « **Reply #18 on:** October 28, 2019, 04:17:02 PM »

Quote from: GERALD WIMMER on October 28, 2019, 04:19:16 AM

Hello

Be careful clamping a test stand on wood to a bench or post , see:

REALLY

!! Now 'dat'dar is jus' plain ol' funny

!! But I'll be durned if'n I'da published it for da' world to see!!

Brett Buck · « **Reply #19 on:** October 28, 2019, 06:06:05 PM »

Quote from: Jim Carter on October 28, 2019, 04:17:02 PM

REALLY !! Now 'dat'dar is jus' plain ol' funny !! But I'll be durned if'n I'da published it for da' world to see!!

The only thing missing is the "Hey y'all, watch iss!".

Brett

Dan McEntee · « **Reply #20 on:** October 28, 2019, 06:11:14 PM »

I can't believe that he used that chincy little wood clamp for that giant four stroke! Look at the gear reduction started that he needs for it! He must be a candidate for the Darwin awards!
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee

Paul Smith · « **Reply #21 on:** October 28, 2019, 07:26:37 PM »

Quote from: Motorman on October 25, 2019, 02:41:39 PM

If I could just interject something here. I would not use any test stand that didn't have pins for the two rear mounting holes on the engine lugs. Vibration can make any engine slip out of those jaws just like butter.

Motorman

My Tatone cast stand has a 1/8" piano wire peg in each side, as you suggest.

Retro Jim · « **Reply #22 on:** November 04, 2019, 10:49:25 AM »

I have used the solid and 2 piece rc firewall motor mounts and attached them to a 4”x4” post that’s in the ground before and works very well ! I also have an EZ test stand as well but bolt that to post or good 2”x4” and haven’t had any problems so far .

BillP · « **Reply #23 on:** November 04, 2019, 10:22:55 PM »

Quote from: Brett Buck on October 28, 2019, 10:05:34 AM

I don't have any suggestions for the mount itself. I use the old CG test stand mount with a bunch of repairs (including clamps made from scraps of Shareen Fancher's new oak kitchen floor).

But I would suggest that 1/2" ply is not nearly stiff enough for most applications. My stand is made of a wooden utility box topped with a plate made of 7/8" particle board with formica laminated on it. It's a cutout for a sink in a countertop, and is extremely stiff, with the rock-hard laminate on one side. Nonetheless, and even though it is cantlievered only about 6" off the side of the box, at some frequencies, it vibrated severely at certain RPM (9400 or so), regardless of the engine. I had to double it up with a piece of 3/4 hardwood plywood to raise the frequency above the normal operating range of the engines I use.

The size of the engine doesn't make that much difference in this effect, the frequency at which it runs is the critical matter.

Brett

I can tell you for sure 1/2" ply has worked fine. The only frequency problems I can remember were from the super flexlble 3 blade Tornado props. My mount is bolted to a piece approx 8" x 12" marine ply (I had pieces of scrap handy) and has a 4 oz plastic tank mounted on the back. It has a pushrod along the side for rc throttle carbs. Started using this stand in the early 1990s and it has 100s (might be a 1000+) of runs with 35-60 size engines. Used mostly to test prop rpms and carbs. One 8" c-clamp mounted near the engine to saw horses or a Workmate folding table. The ply is oil soaked but still doesn't show signs of delamination or being fragile. While it sounds like 1/2 ply isn't up to the task it shows otherwise.