Esso farm supply . Delivered directly to my farm .

Brad

The John Deere store used to be a great place to buy talcum powder also . Used to lube the seed plates in grain planters . All diesel is low sulphur these days . Just don’t get caught using it in your pickup! Or your model engine .

Brad 

Bob,
The Red Max guys were doing model diesel fuel might be worth a try. I like the John Deer Starter Fluid (https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-80-percent-Premium-Ether-Starting-Fluid-RE556468.html) part #: RE 556468. Basically, mix 35% John Deer, 25% oil (either castor/syn or SAE 60 will work) and the remaining 39% kero and 1% ignition improver (AMSOIL Cetane Improver) is a good starting place for steel/iron engines.
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You can also use a simple mix of any starting fluid that has at least 50% ether; Johnsen's Premium Starting Fluid 50% is good (if ether is the first listed ingredient its good). Mix this with 25% oil, 1% Amsoil CI and go, could add 10% kero if you want to stretch the SF.

Now if you want to get the SF out of the can and not spray into the mix jar you can cool the can, turn over the can and spray out all the propellent, let the can sit a few minutes then invert and spray out the last of the propellent. Now cool the can in the frig for 1/2 hour or so. Next, take a sharp ice pick or punch and pop three holes along the top seam on one side and one vent hole on the other. Pour into quart tin fuel can. Seal it very tight. Now you can mix in the rest of the components.

Best,   DennisT

I never liked the ideas of punching a hole in the Deere ether can.  I spray it into a quart jar, with Saran wrap covering everything, including my fingers.  You lose a little bit, but it's safe.  Also you don't have to use the whole can of Deere SF.  The rest can stay for later.

Abi,
It looks like it is the type of ether we use, just seems a bit expense. The John Deer SF is about $4 for 7oz can.

Best,   DennisT

The JD starting fluid can be used pretty much in the same % as if straight ether (maybe 5% more). With the lesser % starter fluids you need to consider adjust the % ether to account for the other ingredient (in most it is heptane, which is similar to kero). So if you want 30% ether with 50% ether SF you need to use 60% SF then add the 25% oil and the balance (15%) kero.

I like Floyd's approach using the spray into the jar approach to getting the ether/SF into a fuel mix container.

Best,   DennisT

        Hi Robert:

         Ignition improver can be found at many sources.  It is sometime called cetaceans boost or improver.  I am using Amsoil centane boost that I paid $8.10 for from a nabob recently.

          I am not positive but I think that John Deere ether may have an additive that produces a dark colored exhaust residue the same as when the engine is over compressed.  Let us know if you too notice this dark residue.


                      Frank

Two quick thoughts...

We blend fuels by volume. The John Deere lists it has 80% diethyl ether, which appears to be by weight. Ether is lighter than water; its specific gravity (weight compared to volume) is about 0.8. SO... 80% by eight means 100% by volume for our purposes. In our units, 8 ounces (weight) of ether makes 10 fluid ounces of ether. That's almost a third of a quart, close to the % we want!

Second, the JD ether cans have a spray cap. WD-40 cans (usually, at least) use a spray cap with a thin straw. A little experimenting will find a spray cap w/straw that fits the JD can. I 'catch' the ether in  the quart mason jars used for canning fruits and vegetables. These have replaceable inner lids.

Punch one inner lid with a hole a bit larger than the straw, and have another lid - or jar - with an intact 'inner'  - handy. Chill the jar a bit, and spray the JD in through the hole. The clearance lets  propellant, or the ether's vapor pressure, to escape. The chilled glass helps the ether condense to liquid. Capture is pretty darn good. You are using the pressure to get the ether out.

When you've got most of it out,  and pressure is gone, there's still some liquid in the can. THIS is the time to punch two (or more) holes in the rim of the can. One hole, of course, to pour out the remainder, the other for a vent. When the can has been really emptied, switch to an intact jar lid to seal against evaporation loss. Of course, don't leave the jar sitting in the sun, or some other 'too warm' place until you blend your batch.

BTW, if you've drawn out enough for a batch, and some remains in the JD can, that's a good place to store it until you need it. A partially emptied can is useful when your blend needs a bit more ether than one can provides.

Safe,  with reasonable care. Effective.  Little waste  or mess. Sensible storage...

oops

will throw this in free of charge

if u flood a diesel and it wont start ,the ether is gone with only kerosene and oil left .blow it out ,and re prime and it should start

damn Howard you made me spit coffee...(again)...I bet very few get it....grin