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Author Topic: Cox .09  (Read 727 times)

Offline Bootlegger

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Cox .09
« on: August 24, 2021, 07:29:32 PM »

  Advice/suggestions for removing the glow heads with out damage to engine ..  I'm obliged   D>K
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Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Cox .09
« Reply #1 on: August 24, 2021, 07:42:05 PM »
Use the proper wrench. If you don't have one, buy ine, they are available.
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Offline GERALD WIMMER

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Re: Cox .09
« Reply #2 on: August 25, 2021, 06:05:54 AM »
Hello If with the proper wrench the head won't let go try heating the engine with a heat gun or torch and that should help free a struck head without damaging it.
Regards Gerald

Online Brett Buck

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Re: Cox .09
« Reply #3 on: August 25, 2021, 07:57:50 AM »
Hello If with the proper wrench the head won't let go try heating the engine with a heat gun or torch and that should help free a struck head without damaging it.
Regards Gerald

   I think you want to cool it rather than heat it. When heated, steel will expand much less than aluminum, and in this case, it will be nearly impossible to keep heat from transferring from the cylinder to the head. So, heating it will cause it to get tighter. Maybe if you heat the entire assembly, then push the head into an ice cube and quickly apply torque.

      Brett

Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Cox .09
« Reply #4 on: August 25, 2021, 12:22:29 PM »
   I think you want to cool it rather than heat it.

Depends on why it's stuck.  If it's old dried castor oil, then mild heat will do.  I think I wouldn't go beyond what you get from a Monocoat gun, though.

Use the right wrench is definitely the basic starting point, though.
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Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Cox .09
« Reply #5 on: August 25, 2021, 12:52:47 PM »
   It's more that likely stuck from old castor as has been mentioned. Heating with a monokote gun, (gives you a reason to find that narrow nozzle that comes with them) directly to the cylinder. Some heat will transfer to the head but it will not get as hot as the cylinder because the fins will be doing their job to cool the head off, that's why they make them from aluminum! Get it to where it seems like it's the same temp as running temperature, then try the wrench. An easier way to do this is, if the engine will run, is to run a ounce or two of fuel through it and when the engine stops, try turning with the wrench right away. One of the things about Cox engines is that they tend to have the heads work loose when running and they require some attention to keep tight.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee
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Offline 944_Jim

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Re: Cox .09
« Reply #6 on: August 25, 2021, 01:41:02 PM »
Step 1: create a clamping wrench from a chunk of 2x4...drill holes just big enough to slide block over head. Split block on one end through to hole...don't cut 2x4 in half. Using construction wood screws or a nut/bolt across the two tails created by splitting the 2x4, clamp your homebrew wrench on head. If it bites well, go on to step 2.
Step 2: bolt/screw engine to additional/substantial 2x4 chucked in a vice (protects engine case)
Step 3: heat head and cylinder with hoit air gun, or gently apply propane heat. Try to concentrate heat on the cylinder first, then head
Step 4: apply homebuilt head wrench to head, and attempt to dislodge head.
Step 5 (if required): cook in a small pan of antifreeze...check often...redo 2 through 4, but after heating cylinder and head, cool head with a chunk of ice and immediately try to remove the (hopefully) shrunken head


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