And if you still crash a lot. It's easy to relocate the FP remote needle so it won't get hurt in all but the worst crashes. I started flying with a 20FP that had the stock venturi and a remote needle -- I could plug that engine six inches deep into the dirt and not touch the needle valve.
And it works very well, there's no reason at all to change it. The FP rear needles were easier to move. The LA rear needles tend to break the backplate in half. It should be possible to rotate it 90 degrees, too, at which point it will also be indestructible. But I haven't tried that in flight yet, and as always, I wouldn't want to start anyone down the engine modification path, which is more of a psychological issue. If anyone asks me about engine problems they are having, the first question will be "are you using al the stock parts".
The metal FP rear needle is actually the core of an RC carburetor. They used to sell it separately as part of a rear needle kit. It worked very well to put a rear needle on a Fox 35, too.
BTW, the plastic backplate on the LA is fine as it is, but *do not overtighten it*. If it is over-tightened, it will crack where the screws go through and then leak. If that happens, take the backplate off, clean it with acetone and alcohol until it is perfectly dry, then run a small (~1/16" diameter) bead of silicone sealant around the thing right at the corner, then put it back on the engine and *snug* up the screws. That hasn't happened to mine because I saw other people do that and end up with cracks.
Brett