Running the suckers in Twins , I FILL the Intake with the port closed . Belt it through so its good and free , hook up the electrickery
and if the battery's up to it ( essential with a sopping wet cylinder ) , a good belt ( like a diesel ) can fire them off first try . as often as not .
You wont get it with a half baked battery set up though .
Chin said of the later 4 bolt 25 " the most powerfull plain bearing 25 theyed tested .
Was surprised when I put the OS's in the Whirlwind instead of the Foxes , that it WASNT as good or reliable . So the FOXes are back in .
the 25s ( early 4 bolt - no fore & aft silencer lugs ) work good on zinger 9 x 5s . With a 19 & 25 i run Top Flite 9 x 4s , fkin good .
Ive some Mi T Gorrie ( narrow blade ) 10 x 4s too , look like TEAK . Ive furniture oiled two , as they must be 500 years old , give a zero or two .
Excellent might be used in referance to these .The 25s'll ' Shift Gear ' maybe in preferance to ' 4 - 2 ' the booming deepens .
The advantage of a 19 & 25 is the 19 yaps or yowls , where the 25 booms or rumbles , - so you can tell which needs a notch on or off the needle .
You just get dull stares and shrugs if you ask which was stuttering etc these days. So it pays to do it yourself . uneven runs often get uneven cuts
so engageing the brain cell and noteing which ones still going then riping over and seeing which has cooled off if you cant tell sorts it out on two matched injuns .
Twins clearing the fuel lines and needles pre flight & individual run up & tune saves having to do it when it doesnt go right . USUALLY 6 or 7 turns on the needle
is right with the cheap & nasty NVA , std tube mufflers & 10 or 15 % nitro .
SO clear the fuel line & set nose up just rich hot , for starters . Blow down line to check needle hole is clear - or push fuel through .