I have a Brodak 40 which has been on a plane without being run for at least two years.  It has been placed on another plane and we tried to start it today.  I think we flooded it.  We ran most  of that out.  However, in trying to crank the propeller it gets very tight and also has a click. It can be forced to crank.  Recently engine after run oil was put in it.  Unfortunately, we took it to the field without having tried to run it on the bench.  We did turn it with a very powerful starter, a 12 volt. It did fire.

Also, it was involved in a crash that broke off the muffler mount.  We tried to put that on with JB Weld.  That came off when we were trying to start it today.  I am not sure that this is at all related to the problem.

Any ideas?    My brother who now has it, may chime in!

See below

That collection of symptoms, plus the fact you flooded it while using a "very powerful" starter (whatever that means), makes me think you bent the rod.  Which, if true, probably means the cylinder is scuffed beyond repair.

If you don't feel confident disassembling it, I'd suggest sending it off to someone for repair, or buy another motor on eBay and put that into the "someday" pile.

Hi Ken,

Just a question - "what did you mean below"?

Did you mean the thread about the Fox 35 that was below what I just wrote?

The tag line below the post, or what Tim said.  Unless that motor has sentimental value I would replace it.

Ken

   If it's been crashed, the case may be tweaked enough that it's in a bind and won't run in that condition. I did that to a OS.35S once I had in a 52 Nobler. I crashed it inverted in an outside maneuver of some kind, and remember being relieved that the cylinder was pointing up! I for the wreckage home, removed the engine and thought that it didn't look bad at all. Put a prop on it and tried to turn it over carefully and it made one revolution and stopped solid. I pulled the back plate off and teh rod was slipping off the crank pin. I pushed it back on and tried again and could see the rod slide back off again as I turned it over. Looking at the engine, there was no visible damage. No cracks of any kind, nothing broken. I got another one out and held it up next to it, and that is when I could see that the crank wasn't square with the cylinder anymore, off by about 10 degrees up. Pretty much ruined the whole engine with the exception of a few parts. I have managed to save a lot of broken and bad engines but even I wasn't going to try and true the case back up, not with all the SO.35S engines in the world! I had a profile Chipmunk that I scratched built back in my beginner days, and crashed that straight into the paved donut at Buder Park one evening. I had a Randy Smith Magnum .40 in it that Gary Hajek gave me and I hadn't even paid him for it yet! I looked at the wreckage from the center of the circle and saw some broken metal and thought it was the case. when I went to pick it up, I saw it was the muffler broken in half. No problem I thought, I can fix that. I didn't have to take the engine out of the fuselage, the impact had sheared the mounting bolts as the engine slid back along the mounts, and the whole nose took the brunt of the impact. I cleaned the engine off, flushed some fuel through things, put a prop on it and turned it over and it felt OK. The gave it some healthy flips and it sounded OK. I welded up the muffler and it powered the next model I built and it's still in my collection ready to run. By all that is right, that engine should have been scrap metal! Sometimes, you just get lucky.
   Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee

MOTORMAN..  Good for you!  You might get more business than you bargained for.

Before sending it off , educate yourself-  take the motor apart.  Warm the case lightly with a propane torch.
Remove the prop an put the nut,washer, driver and thrust washer(thin steel behind the prop driver.

Remove the backplate and observe the visible damage, if any. Possibly meditate on the negative effects of a "powerful" starter.  Any motor 46 and below is relatively safe for hand starting once you learn the best techniques(maybe later).

Remove the glowplug.  If the oil is squashed or missing it's likely debris from other parts trashed it.
Remove the head bolts- be careful not to strip the head or mangle the fins.  Don't hold the motor so that the screwdriver could slip off and go through your palm!  Its best to either mount it on a block, or a metal adjustable motor mount(hard to find these days).  Sawing a slot in a 2x4 just wide enough for the case and snug fit across the case under the motor mounts is enough.

Pull the head.  Be careful not to trash the head washer. 

Examine the piston, sleeve, the inside if the case, and where the piston binds,  If you're lucky the sleeve has oil burnt onto it above the exhaust.  If it looks perfectly clean and the piston binds above the exhaust port the motor it either fit too tight, or just needs to be broken in.  The Brodak 40's are well built for the price, but the P/L is tough to get just right.

Use the end of popsicle stick to catch a port in the sleeve.  Use a SMALL wrench to slowly turn the shaft and push the sleeve out.

The piston and rod should come out, looking from the back, when the crankpin is in the upper corner.  It may take some gentle help with a right angle allen wrench to pop it off.  It also may need so rotation of the crank. 

Examine the piston and liner for long scratches above the ports.  If there are substantial or many vertical scratcline is probably toast.  It may run.  Check the piston fit by sliding it up an unscratched  sleeve.  If it gets stuck above the ports  the liner has too much taper(generally not a home shop fix).

If everything looks reasonably unscratched, straight, and clean reassemble the motor.  If the bind comes back or gets worse the case is bent from the crash that broke the muffler.  If it just binds try priming it and flipping it.  If it sticks when flipped the P/L need some honing, not a home job unless you are desperate.

The following procedure will usually get almost any motor(that isn't worn out) started.  Mount it on a junky plane.  Fill the tank.  Put a few drops of fuel in the intake and try to flip it over.  If it won't put a few drops in the exhaust.  Try flipping  both forwards and backwards.  If it simply won't flip over or backfire it's kinda hopeless and the piston/liner needs to be replaced or repaired.

If it does backfire try 2-3 drops in the exhaust.  Wiggle the prop a bit with the battery attached.  Hold the so the prop  is rotated clockwise up against the bind.  Hit the prop hard and fast AWAY from compression.  With some luck and maybe several tries the motor will start to fire a few times.  It it does it can be broken in enough to run.  If it doesn't pop forget it.  New piston and liner.

Once the motor is either fixed or replaced look through the several posts(search) on breaking in and running an ABC engine.

Doesn't sound Brodak like to me.  They usually,  if not always make things right.

I want to say a big thanks to Motorman.  A week ago or so,  I received back a beautiful engine.  I haven't run it yet but I will do it in the fullness of time.  Right now I don't have a very good test bed.  However I broke it in in the early stages on an old Cosmic Wind.  Of course it was overpowered but it got me from just flying circles to lazy eights and flying upside down.  I have a profile Vector which I see as it's home, once I get it built.  Thanks again, Motorman.