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Engine basics => Engine set up tips => Topic started by: Donald Main on November 21, 2020, 10:10:31 AM
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Trying to remove a crank from a Como 51 and have the liner out but can't get con rod off the crank pin. Thanks
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Is the rod moving on the wristpin? Motors that are run on castor oil frequently have the rod glued to the wristpin and then it is hard to get the rod back enough to disassemble the engine. Sometimes a couple of days in a crock pot will loosen the joint
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on a side note, I had a early loop scavenged Como 51 that was an excellent stunt motor with just a new venturi. I had somebody put an dykes ring on it and the motor would not run right.
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Thanks Mike, already crocked the motor for 48 hrs. Seems like there are two nubs on the inside of the piston which keep it centered. I will put it back in the pot and cook for another day. S?P
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The version with the big "S" on the crankcase does not have a hole.
Massimo
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I have a s on the side. still looking for the answer.
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No magic recipe. Hot and some unlocking system (crock pot or other), time and .... a lot of patience.
Massimo
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Thanks to all and I will strive to get this thing apart
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AAAARRRRGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHH .
WOTITS DOING IS >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> .........................................
The Wrist Pin is STICKING in the CONROD .
Really , Ideally , you LEAVE THE LINER in the case & lift till its just clear of the access hole . in rear . So the pistons supported, Maintains alignment - support - & squareness .
HOWEVER , a HEAT GUN is virtually a prerequisttte . Give a T or Two . UP in under through the bottom , to heat the ROD LITTLE END ( and Piston . Not to mention the C R C , Solvent etc .
usually you find the castors set like glue , IN the little end / wrist pin interface . Hence the term SOLVENT . Leave overnight inverted with piston fulloff acetone . or brake cleaner . :P
IFITS STUBBORN , you pull the liner , set a pair of spruce 1/8 sq ea side of pin , fwd . AND PUNCH the pin FORWARD to FREE IT . Then cautiously lever the piston fwd . a brace across above the lever will see its not putting force AT THE CROWN , where it'd screw up the ring land and top sealing edge .A really stubborn one youll have to back & fwd it , Dosing with CRC & the heat gun , till VOLIA it pops free .
Thus a ultra sonic cleaner or safe for alloy HOT TANK at a Engine Shop , could save a lot of grief , stuffing around , and banishment for the odde inappropriate comment or word .
A engine reco shop'd probly be happy to throw it in their tank overnight , or a mag wheel cleaners ?? , removeing the dried castor GLUE where its set the pin to rod .
Also , you wanna see your NOT getting the rod off square & skewed , with all this levering ,as itll jam worse .
A allen key or bent wire , accessing inside under piston , to move piston fore & aft on the rod/pin , is kinda the FIRST STEP , then heat cycle & CRC / WD 40 when hot .
A clear & undistracted state of mind dosnt do any harm, either . Al9ong with a clean bench and a sheet of paper or three . Paper towels , tweezers etc .
Easy to breaK A DRILLIN THREAD TAP IN THE ALLOY PADS , OR PULL THE PAD LEAVING THE PIN STILL IN THERE , TOO . . . .
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I got that thing apart and yes those who said the wrist pin was the problem were right. Thanks to all who gave me advice. H^^