Author Topic: T D 049-051 (Read 698 times)

Bootlegger · « **on:** January 13, 2020, 09:56:50 AM »

Folks I need info on removing the venturi removal from T D 049-051 Cox engine..All help is appreciated...

George Truett · « **Reply #1 on:** January 13, 2020, 10:19:51 AM »

Look at the bottom right of second page of the manual. Here is a link that may help also, https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=tee+dee+.049&&view=detail&mid=6790F205E2082AD686E36790F205E2082AD686E3&&FORM=VRDGAR&ru=%2Fvideos%2Fsearch%3Fq%3Dtee%2Bdee%2B.049%26FORM%3DHDRSC3

Brett Buck · « **Reply #2 on:** January 13, 2020, 10:50:48 AM »

Quote from: Bootlegger on January 13, 2020, 09:56:50 AM

Folks I need info on removing the venturi removal from T D 049-051 Cox engine..All help is appreciated...

The venturi itself just screws out, and it clamps the needle/metering block between the venturi and the plastic. To remove the plastic housing, you have to remove the thrust washer and unscrew the aluminum clamp. I used the aluminum clamp as a jack to push off the thrust washer.

Brett

Fredvon4 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 13, 2020, 12:33:07 PM »

heat is needed if plastic or aluminum venturi/carb housing must come off....it is keyed to a crankcase flat so it will not spin/ turn off....thin knife blade to pry straight off....exacto blade too brittle be careful....unless carb body is cracked or damaged leave it the hell alone!

I prefer the readily available plastic repair parts...I have 5 higher cost aftermarket aluminum on my TeeDees....heavier, leak prone, and usually twice price.....

Air Ministry . · « **Reply #4 on:** January 13, 2020, 04:57:17 PM »

Yea. Plastic etc is usually brittler cold . Dont melt it though ! . A heat gun might assist the process . dont lever on the intake .

944_Jim · « **Reply #5 on:** January 13, 2020, 05:42:29 PM »

Mr. Fred,
I wouldn't have expected that response to the aftermarket aluminum ones. I think you just talked me out if getting one or two for my Tee Dee .020s.
Thanks for the save!

Brett Buck · « **Reply #6 on:** January 13, 2020, 10:16:52 PM »

Quote from: Fredvon4 on January 13, 2020, 12:33:07 PM

heat is needed if plastic or aluminum venturi/carb housing must come off....it is keyed to a crankcase flat so it will not spin/ turn off....thin knife blade to pry straight off....exacto blade too brittle be careful....unless carb body is cracked or damaged leave it the hell alone!

I prefer the readily available plastic repair parts...I have 5 higher cost aftermarket aluminum on my TeeDees....heavier, leak prone, and usually twice price.....

Unfortunately, the plastic carb bodies are very fragile, so most of them get broken even under normal use. Even catching them with your finger when flipping tends to crack them.

Brett

Fredvon4 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 14, 2020, 08:50:58 AM »

Jim if your teedee 20s are "forever engines" mounted on a craft...opt for the aluminum part...just pay closer attn to installation...I use permatex anaerobic gasket maker...less is better than more.....key here is "on a plane".....the aluminum part will take a better beating.....grin

a few years back the plastic red or black bodies were rare....no so today...MECOA molds / sell them....cox inter Bernie and ExModel Matt carry both types

Bootlegger · « **Reply #8 on:** January 14, 2020, 12:58:48 PM »

Fellow modelers thanks for your help/suggestions, I got the carb body off today and I wanted to say THANK'S for your help .. Again thanks..

Author Topic: T D 049-051 (Read 698 times)

Bootlegger

T D 049-051

George Truett

Re: T D 049-051

Brett Buck

Re: T D 049-051

Fredvon4

Re: T D 049-051

Air Ministry .

Re: T D 049-051

944_Jim

Re: T D 049-051

Brett Buck

Re: T D 049-051

Fredvon4

Re: T D 049-051

Bootlegger

Re: T D 049-051