Good news, good little engine, good price and mucho better looking now.
Now to dream, even for the extra bucks more. They put on a metal back plate and PA needle valve assy.
That may asking too much too soon.

I was reading one of the Clarence Lee Engine books (RCM reprints of his columns) and was amused to note that he was complaining of engine returns where the user had replaced the phillips head screws with cap screws. He claimed that people were now over-tightening the heads, causing the head to warp!

Probably some truth to this, especially now when most engine heads are held down by 4 screws, not 6 as most were in the "good old days". The key point with the OS is to get the correct screwdriver. I think is is the Japanese standard, not the US phillips standard which has a different angle in the flutes (or whatever they are called).

The 'sekrit' with socket headed screws for our use is to use a standard, short arm hex wrench with two fingers, one on the end of the wrench and the other on the bend. They don't need to be "hell for tight"  , but nicely snugged down .      Steve

The 'sekrit' with socket headed screws for our use is to use a standard, short arm hex wrench with two fingers, one on the end of the wrench and the other on the bend. They don't need to be "hell for tight"  , but nicely snugged down .      Steve

Or get that neat little torque wrench from Randy with the full set of socket screw sizes, metric and US.  I've had mine for years and just love it.  It includes a listing of torque settings for each size screw.  If you take your engines apart and put them back together again regularly, it's a must have!

Ted fancher