Pretty much what you have posted. I would just add that on a really crusty old engine, castor oil residue will have the liner glued to the case, so crock potting is necessary on some to heat the case and dissolve the old, dried and baked on castor residue.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

Just remove the 8 screws😂
L

Use a puller. I make mine using different size rubber stoppers. Here is one being used on a Fox .35. On this engine, the piston was frozen pretty high up in the sleeve, so much of the puller was exposed (not fully engaged). With "chocolate Foxes" or other engines that have heavy castor buildup inside, cooking them in antifreeze is essential--if they have been allowed to sit. On more reasonable cases you can try simple heat first and maybe get it to come out. But don't forget that the wrist pin joint has to be free also, or else you are still unable to disassemble things.

For control, it is easiest to install the puller in the chuck of a drill press. On easy pulls, lock the quill and just keep the heat gun working on the case and use gloved hands to pull straight down. On harder pulls, add heat (after crockpotting as long as it takes) and clamp the engine lugs down to the table. Then use the quill to apply the force.

My method is:
1. Remove cylinderhead and rear cover
2. Put the engine into deepfrozing part of refrigerator, for 0,5  -  1 hours
3. Prepare the biggest buthane torch (Fill up, etc.) Prepare your asbestos or oven gloves and a piece of hardwood
4. Take the engine and heat up quickly, around the cooling fins
5. Push up the bottom part of liner with the wooden stick...
Istvan

This example is the K&B .61 from the Bargain Barrel that I showed in a different thread. It shows what happens when someone jams a metal object into the exhaust port and starts using it like he was Archimedes with good place to stand. The edge of the port in the liner was slightly mushroomed and there's no good way to grind it back flush in situ so that the liner will come out properly. That means that the bulged edge must be dragged out of the case, which of course, causes more damage. This damage must then be reworked so that the sleeve can be reinstalled without distortion. And of course, the sleeve has to have the burrs stoned off first.

I always have concerns about putting sticks or frangible copper pads or whatnot thru the exhaust ports to try to "jack up" the liner. Sure it can be done. Successfully with engines with small interference fits and good heating. Clean engines, not crusty relics. But fundamentally it means that you are going to try to twist the crank.  If the engine is really frozen (either with dried, hardened oil or if it has the piston rusted to the liner) those forces can be huge and saying that you're only going to twist just so hard...is pretty uncalibrated. And passing this wisdom on to someone who has not worked on a stubborn engine yet (ie. he has not damaged one yet) leaves them thinking it has to come out that way--so just keep leaning on it. On some engines with the piston seized to the liner, jacking the liner up partway still hasn't solved the disassembly problem. If the following steps will require more cooking, isn't it better to do all that before applying any force?

Trying to "loosen up" an engine that is frozen near BDC or TDC by attaching a prop and perhaps shooting a bit of PB Blaster thru the plug hole before "giving it a try" can put tremendous force on the rod ends. But, I see guys take old engines that they got from a swap meet or in a trade and it's the first thing they try. No heat. No cleaning. The old shampoo ad had it right: "Don't do the damage in the first place."

Dave

Perfect for resto....  First you soak in LimeAway, then drop 'er into Evapo-Rust. Then all it needs is new rings. That's why it was relegated to boat anchor duty, for sure....

The Divot