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Author Topic: old OS engine screw sizes  (Read 1807 times)

Offline david beazley

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old OS engine screw sizes
« on: May 21, 2012, 11:48:18 AM »
I have an old OS .19 R/C engine with baffle over the exhaust port.  I have bench run it and want to convert to C/L.  It is an old bypass design with Dykes ring.  I want to replace the screws on the head and backplate but they seem to be a wierd size.  The backplate screws are .6 pitch, 7mm long but the major diameter is 2.67mm.  Is this some special screw the factory came up with?  The smallest size metric .6 pitch screw I see listed is 3mm.  Would this be a 3mm X .6 screw?
3 of the head screws are the same dia. and pitch but are 22mm long( they go thru the cylinder to the case).  I dont have any known 3mm x .6 pitch screws to measure.  I have some 3mm x .5 and they measure 2.88mm, so I am at a loss to figure out what exactly I have.
Anyone have any wisdom on metric fasteners they can share?
Thanks. ???
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Online Bill Hummel

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Re: old OS engine screw sizes
« Reply #1 on: May 21, 2012, 01:04:25 PM »
David, I'll dig out my old OS screw/bolt size chart, but I seem to recall that the OS 19 used a very odd, and virtually
unobtainable metric thread. Perhaps someone on the forum has a replacement screw set for the OS 19.  Other option MIGHT be to thread a slightly larger modern tap thru the holes.  Probably not what you wanted to hear...
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Online Bill Hummel

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Re: old OS engine screw sizes
« Reply #2 on: May 22, 2012, 05:46:33 PM »
Aha, found my old listings:  The Max-19 is listed as using M2.8 x 0.6 (specially made for OS).  Yeah, not a common one...
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Offline david beazley

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Re: old OS engine screw sizes
« Reply #3 on: May 23, 2012, 02:59:35 AM »
Thanks Bill!  Looks like I'll probably try to re-tap to a "real" size, probably 3x.6.
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Offline David Zwolak

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Re: old OS engine screw sizes
« Reply #4 on: June 10, 2012, 08:31:43 AM »
Contact Micro Fasteners at 800-892-6917.  They had a run of socket-head screws for the old OS engines.  They were a special size.  Micro Fasteners does not list them in their catalogue.  Thus the need to call and speak with them personally (how quaint).  Also, same size fits some early ENYA engines if I recall.  Maybe wrong on this last point....  Check.

Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: old OS engine screw sizes
« Reply #5 on: June 10, 2012, 08:02:37 PM »
The normal "fix" for bigger OS and ST engines of that era (OS .30S through ST .60bb) was to use 5-40 SAE screws. ALL the best engine tuners and repairmen use 5-40's. The original thread was 3mm x .6mm pitch, and if you run the conversions on the pitch and major diameter, they're super close.

Assuming that your 2.67mm major diameter and .6 mm pitch are correct, that's really close to 4-40, so I'd look into converting them to 4-40 screws. I'm a big fan of roll taps, but if it's too tight, then use a cut tap.  y1 Steve
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Offline david beazley

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Re: old OS engine screw sizes
« Reply #6 on: June 12, 2012, 05:07:51 PM »
So what's the deal with roll taps?  I don't see how you can keep them from breaking.  Are they only for non ferrous material?  Do you use the same size bits?  Any insure is appreciated. ???
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Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: old OS engine screw sizes
« Reply #7 on: June 14, 2012, 02:44:22 PM »
David...Yes, roll taps require a bigger drill size. And using them to reform the existing threads to the new size is a little bit dodgey. They don't cut, so they don't make chips that clog the tap. At most, you'll see some dust in the oil. It is very important to use a super slippery tapping compound, such as Moly-D, which is expensive and nasty smelling chit. I've used a lot of ENCO #1 tapping fluid with roll taps, but something like STP oil treatment should work fine. Roll taps work wonderfully on 6061T6 and aluminum castings, mild steel, 4340/4130 prior to HT, & 304 CRES. There are definitely some materials that they won't work on. They are simply wonderful for blind holes and soft, gummy materials (like crankcase castings).

 The thing to remember is that since you're starting out with a hole that already tapped a different size, you have to use your feel/gut to decide if the roll tap will work or not. Since the roll tap (aka form tap) is almost solid, and there are essentially no chips being produced to clog the flutes (which aren't there!), they're really strong. If you're drilling your own and IF you drill the right size hole (ask for a chart at the tool store), the material is suitable, and the lube is good, it's darned near impossible to break one. That said, you certainly don't want to break one off in an elderly engine case that you can't replace! So caution is advised... H^^ Steve
"The United States has become a place where professional athletes and entertainers are mistaken for people of importance." - Robert Heinlein

In 1944 18-20 year old's stormed beaches, and parachuted behind enemy lines to almost certain death.  In 2015 18-20 year old's need safe zones so people don't hurt their feelings.


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