The glow head in your picture looks like a standard low compressionn head.  Not circle of stars on top and no trumpet shape inside.  Will you be offering a replacement for the higher performance TeeDee's and Black Widows?

Thanks.  I don't really care about the decoration, on the combustion chamber.  Without a source of plugs, all the TeeDees and Black Widows will go by the wayside.  I've tried some of the adapter units, but always with a crippling loss of performance.

Yes, these glow red.  In sunlight you might not be able to see it, even if you cup your hands.  Try in a darker space.  If it sizzles it is good. 

You can also put a small drop of fuel into the plug then hook it up and it will instantly boil out (and may catch fire, but only for an instant since it was a small drop of fuel!)

I suspect you are priming like a big engine (because of the sizzle), and spraying fuel into the OPEN exhaust port.  This floods the engine quite instantly.  Instead rotate the engine through till the exhaust is CLOSED and then let surface tension collect a drop of fuel in the exhaust port (only 1 of them).  Now when the engine is cycled through the correct amount of prime enters through the exhaust.

Now on a "dry" engine that has not been run in several days I do "flood" it, to make sure everything is wet with oil and fuel.  I clear the flood, fill the tank and then prime with the exhaust closed (like I just described).

Phil

hmm...OK.  So minimal response. 

What battery are you using?  If you are not using a 2D cell in parallel I would try one of those with fresh alkaline batteries.  I have a habit of suspecting power panels and rechargeable ignitors.  (Wire and tape work very well if you lack an alkaline tray, at least for a while.  These self-drain since you cannot break the circuit without taking it apart.  I made a tray from RadioShack parts when they were still around.)

If you are using an old Cox clip, I would suspect the wires, and probably clean the clip with some fine sandpaper.  The thin solid wires on those old clips break inside.  Get some lamp cord or speaker wire and replace the wire. 

Fire off an email message to Bernie, the contact link at the top of coxengines.ca if the 2 D cells don't light it up, and you are sure your wiring is good.  I would be stumped too.

Phil

Thanks, Phil

I'm using one of the traditional 1.5v batteries sold in the LHS. It's new, as I said and its voltage checks OK as does the voltage at the Cox clip.

I'll try cleaning that clip as you suggested.

I've ordered a test stand for the larger engines...a question about those plugs...

I can't remember what size plug (short or long) is used. I'm going to start these engines: Fox 15 and 35, Torpedo 23 and 35, OK 29, Enya 19.

I've had that OK 29 since the 50s and have never been able start it...this time I hope to, it may take one of those electric starter thingies.

A battery can test with good voltage, yet when a load is on it the voltage drops.  Try the D cells, even if just a temporary setup.

As for the glow plugs "yes"  Out of 3 differed fox 15's 3 different plugs may be required...

Phil

Good on the clip! 

The fox 35 can take an OS#8 as well.  Many will say it is a better plug, but a good plug is a good plug.  Getting the desired performance and a clean run is what tells this in the end.

I know my fox15 from the 80's takes a short or the piston hits, it is an early Schnurle BB.  I recall a slant head fox15 I used to have using a long though, but cannot confirm that as I don't have the engine anymore. 

I don't know anything about the other engines listed.

Phil

Look at what you are starting with and then figure out where to go.  You really are best off buying the correct blend to start with.  Sig Champion 25%
http://sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/ProductsV6.html?L+Sig+gikj7197+_Ddp_5fSearch1_02a41FuelSigChampion_01Search_02Index_01SubMenu_02NONE_01Menu_02CatProd_01Thumb_02Fuel_20_2d_20Airplane_01
and the NEW formulation of Cox glow fuel
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDBNH&P=ML
There are other companies that blend fuel too, and if they offer a suitable product then feel free to use it.

Quarts are not hazardous shipping, just ground only.

The "ideal" fuel for Cox is 10% castor, 10% synthetic oil since the ball joint in the piston will be lubricated properly by this.  Full 20% castor is another choice but it will build more varnish than necessary and the engine will need cleaned more frequently.

The Fox 35 wants a rather different blend.  I ordered through Brodak.
http://brodak.com/fuel-qt-5-nitro-29-castor.html
This is a pretty good fuel, I like it.

I don't know the requirements of your other engines.

A few years ago I wrote a spreadsheet to figure the oil requirements to blend some off the shelf fuel (it is not on this computer though).  I have not yet finished that gallon because I just bought fuels for each engine...

Phil

yes, I believe 4 oz will put you in the ball park with 18% oil fuel.

For best results, spend $29.95 for a Tower or Hanger 9 power panel and another $30 or so for a sealed lead acid 12 volt battery.  Then you can adjust the glow to the color you want and ENJOY modeling.

Proper glow power is one of the key elements of "gas engine" flying.