Should i epoxy fiberglass around this bladder tank to prevent it from splitting?

I just started to build a Vintage Performance laser cut Winder 2. Power is to be a Fox 36 MK VI on bladder.

There is a gap between the bladder tank hole and the hole in the leading edge sheeting to take the bladder in and out. Should I fuel proof the entire bladder tank area inside the wing? And should I seal the gap between the leading edge sheeting and bladder tank hole?

Add some balsa where the hole will be to fill the gap. Glue it to the tube first, then sand it to match the airfoil shape.
Another option (if the gap is small) would be epoxy + micro balloons, added after the hole is cut.

The bladder compartment looks like a flourescent tube protector...?
If so...I never found just the right size  of latex tubing that could be expanded to hold 3 ozs [or so] without squeezing against the bladder compartment.
The framework of that plane with all the intricate lightening holes and precise fits looks very nice.

Got the bladder tank window installed. First Winder with that option. Put the window on the bottom only.

I would suggest getting a better bellcrank than the plastic one that comes in the kit if you're going for all out speed. Also, you're pushing your luck with the wooden test stand/plywood clamps for an engine that powerfull. Let us know how fast it goes.

Just a plain nylon bellcrank, good for a sport plane. 3/16 garolite is good to make your own. You could copy the Sig design just leave a little more material on the inboard side of the pivot. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/garolite-sheet-stock/halogen-free-garolite-g-10-sheets-and-bars/ Tom Morris made some 3"x3/16 but you'd have to mount it different. Either way use a 6-32 shcs and nyloc nut, the bolt that comes with the Sig is soft. When that Fox mk6 gets to honkin' on you want to feel confidence.

Whats wrong with using the Sig 3 inch bellcrank MM? Or is it the way its attached you dont like? Ps. Yes i was unprepared to break in the engine that day and it was a very sketchy last minute set up. The good break in stand was unavailable and i really  wanted to push the break in process through.

I broke a nylon bellcrank in half with a Clown racer powered by a OS 15.  Perfect 3" bellcranks will not take the pull of a pre-Supertiger engine.  I trust Fox, Veco, and my own work.

The leadouts are pictured in the forward position, and the stock position are the far right. The tip weight on the plans called for 1oz, I went with an ounce and a quarter. I was going to build a weight box but felt it was too much work.

Hope you're going to use a better prop than the one pictured. Look up Eliminator prop or ZZ prop and get a CF 8x7. If that's the factory head you're going to want 5-6 head shims for 50% nitro or your crank will go bye bye.

MM

Thank you Paul. Because i chose not to bury the engine in to the LE, and the motor is an oz heavier, I went for the adjustable leadouts, because i had no prior plane to use as a reference. I took a guess and added an 1/4 oz tip weight to make up for any added weight of the adjustable leadouts.  It should be in the ballpark. I also talked to the designer of the plane, and his recommendation with 36 mk6 was a .25" forward of what is on the plans which I have. The mounting holes also fit the earlier fox 36 version which is lighter, so i have a choice of engines and leadout positions to keep everything going the same direction. Thats the goal.

MM, the grain goes front to back. I know this is the wrong direction but i didnt feel like correcting it.
PS, Whats a panther @#$# ?

Kevin

MM, the grain goes front to back. I know this is the wrong direction but i didnt feel like correcting it.
PS, Whats a panther @#$# ?

Kevin

Al

Kevin,
Order up some of these props for the MKVI.  They have a stouter hub.
https://www.apcprop.com/product/8-75x5-0/

The earlier lighter Fox will want a 9X6ish prop is my guess.

Lane, thank you for the prop suggestion.

Kevin.