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Speed,Combat,Scale,Racing => Combat => Topic started by: Lyle Spiegel on March 20, 2010, 06:27:03 PM
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I've got a new Sneeker kit -will be my first Combat wing since the days of my VooDoo and Quicker- have not decided if I will use my Fox 36XBB or J CS- also need to decide between bladder or hard tank- where can I get details of how to setup a bladder properly? Back in the day I used hard tanks setup as shown in the original VooDoo kit- I also have an original hard tank set up for Rat Race with the rubber "quick fill" - but rubber is all dried out- was planned to be installed on a Goldberg Scat Rat- is this style tank still available- I believe it was sold by same folks who sold hard rubber "Don's" Racing Wheels.
My last VoodDoo had a pacifier setup- made up using baby pacifier- but always had risk of a burst.
Thanks for any advice.
Lyle
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How to make em
http://www.clcombat.info/bladder.html
I like a pincher that is hard attached to the airplane though.
Important keep the feed line from soft tubing, easy to pinch
The thickness of the bladder needs to match up with the needle and engine size. The yellow stuff is good.
One place to get em
http://home.earthlink.net/~philcartier/webcat/pricelist.html
look for the yellow bladder jacket kit. Also buy a few feet of tubing
Dave
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The yellow stuff from Phil Cartier is good. Home Depot sells regular surgical tubing also. Our store keeps it where the sprinklers and plumbing fixtures are.
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Pacifiers (or pipette tops) are a good option. One advantage is lower pressure than the tubing bladders, and hence, less critical needle adjustment.
I use the high pressure yellow tubing stuff on F2D, etc, but you need a good fine thread needle.
While not quite as durable, pacifiers tolerate a lot more needles.
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With any type of bladder tank, you need to make the compartment big enough so the tank can inflate to its natural size and shape. Otherwise it will be distorted and have "false pressure" at the beginning of the run, then go overlean when it loosens up.
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pipette bulbs here..
http://www.emsdiasum.com/microscopy/products/preparation/pipette.aspx#70980
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24 for $8.50, 35 cents each.
Good buy !
These work well all the way from 1/2A through .36. One ounce to four.
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The most critical thing on the NVA is getting one with a fine needle taper and a fine thread. The only commercial ones that seem to work(from 15's on up) is the OS 1a. It was originally designed for the old, old, RC 10's and 15's. It has a .35mm thread. The OS control line needlevalve also has that fine thread and will work, installed through the venturi. Seal the threads with a piece of fuel line to help minimize air leaks. Feed the fuel into the fitting opposite the needle and out the side to help keep fuel pressure off the threads and prevent leaks.
Generally they work well. If you still have problems getting an engine setting, or the NVA seems to collect junk and plug up, you can try bending the point of the needle ever so slightly. That will make the needle rest on the side of the seat, allowing a larger area for fuel to flow. Instead of flowing through a really, really tiny crack all around the needle it can flow through just a really tiny crack on one side of the needle.