I have some broke F2d's and Some "russian" mylar.  Done this in the past, and not so happy wiht my results. 


What do you guys use for glue?

Any other tips? 

dave

I used a local contact cement (LaPage's) back when building my own.In a pinch Balsa rite or even Scotch 77 sprayed in a container and brushed on has worked.Any good contact cement should work.

Pull the covering as tight as you can and stick it down with an iron.Some of the mylar coverings don't shrink all that well so this is really important.My wing tips would allways suck so I started to use Monocote or Solar film for these.Back in the "high" production days I found that putting the cement on the day before allowing it to gas off and dry worked.The heat would activate the cement it and stuck just as well.This made a much neater job as the cement wouldn't drag on the covering and smear .Less smell also.

Also some of the mylar seemed to have a directional shrink pattern,not all but some.Make a test piece and see if it shrinks in all directions equally.

Hope this helps,
Brad

I used a local contact cement (LaPage's) back when building my own.In a pinch Balsa rite or even Scotch 77 sprayed in a container and brushed on has worked.Any good contact cement should work.

Pull the covering as tight as you can and stick it down with an iron.Some of the mylar coverings don't shrink all that well so this is really important.My wing tips would allways suck so I started to use Monocote or Solar film for these.Back in the "high" production days I found that putting the cement on the day before allowing it to gas off and dry worked.The heat would activate the cement it and stuck just as well.This made a much neater job as the cement wouldn't drag on the covering and smear .Less smell also.

Also some of the mylar seemed to have a directional shrink pattern,not all but some.Make a test piece and see if it shrinks in all directions equally.

Hope this helps,
Brad

Thanks brad, I will try contact cement (weldwood).  THe first one I did was a gooey mess  I used UHU foil and foam glue in a tube. 

The stuff shrinks funny,  A little heat it shrinks a little , a little more and it shrinks a LOT.  I will be glad when it is used up.   

Dave Siegler

It is a total recover job.  Junk Tom left me.  Ever wonder why he always has nice equip?  Fixed but still in good physical shape.  The mylar is the thick red stuff, real stiff.  I will have to shag up some FasCal.  Where can I get some wihtout buying a 500 foot roll?


Dave


 

The SLC covering goes on just fine over open bays on a Euro F2D.  As always, work from the center at the high point and try to get the covering down smoothly so it doesn't require a lot of shrinking.  Trying to shrink out big wrinkles on an open bay wing is asking for warp problems.

Prime any spots where you can't get the oil off with foam-safe CyA glue. 

You can double or triple cover problem areas if you want.  You can even double cover the whole plane with very little weight penalty(about 18 gr.) and make it nearly puncture proof. 

I build speed limit combat planes that are similar to the f2d ships, just a bit bigger.  I brush contact cement on the t/e, center rib, wing tip and spar.  No cement on the ribs.  I cover them using Phil's SLC covering with light heat.  Pull snug and shrink with a heat gun. Works nice and I can cover a plane start to finish in 40 minutes.  You can see them on the New England Controline Combat website.  Look at this years contest and you'll see plenty of pic's

Brian

Phil,
The stuff you found better than 3M77 is what?

I'm going to try the double covering idea but every time I think about it I have this image of a wrinkled up mess.  Time and patience will tell.

Thanks,

Lane

Phil,  should have used your SLC years ago.  I have now covered five airplanes with it.  One is painted with auto motive white.  I will be posting pictures some where of the ones that didn't get painted.  Have fun,  DOC Holliday

Hi Chad,

What do you use for glue to hold the Russian Covering down.  We missed you at Huntersville last month.

Wayne