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Speed,Combat,Scale,Racing => Combat => Topic started by: jim on August 27, 2018, 02:14:46 PM
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Can someone tell me what the size balsa is used on the LE of the super satan? Is it 3/4 or 1".
Thanks
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This MAN article says "Form from Pactra or "Carve from 3/8 x 1/2" balsa.
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This MAN article says "Form from Pactra or "Carve from 3/8 x 1/2" balsa.
Rusty, i'm ordering a short kit from lazer works and needed to know what the l/e was. This helps a lot. The super satan must have a thin airfoil.
That article will come in handy since I don't have the plans for the s/s.
Thanks Rusty.
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Yeah, Jim it's a knife-edge. That and the right horsepower is part of why it flies and turns so fast. Good luck with your build.
Here is the whole article....... EDIT: too big. I'll post it later
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Yeah, Jim it's a knife-edge. That and the right horsepower is part of why it flies and turns so fast. Good luck with your build.
Here is the whole article....... EDIT: too big. I'll post it later
Ok Thanks Rusty
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I can't get them all in one post, so here's another try in 3 posts.
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Next two
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And last.
They get bigger if you click about 3 times on the pics.
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Jim,
I have built 2 of version 12. Both, as Rusty said have 3/8x1/2 leading edge stock. I purchased mine from Sig. I suggest buying a few so you can sort out the straightest one.
The following thread by Richard Perry has full set plans(just take to staples) and some usefull tips.
https://stunthanger.com/smf/combat/super-satan/
Best of Luck!
Tom
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It doesn't hurt, on a Super Satan , to put some vertical webs along the back edge of the leading edge sheeting and between the trailing edge pieces. The structure in not what you'd call robust and more than one has folded a wing.
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Jim,
I have built 2 of version 12. Both, as Rusty said have 3/8x1/2 leading edge stock. I purchased mine from Sig. I suggest buying a few so you can sort out the straightest one.
The following thread by Richard Perry has full set plans(just take to staples) and some usefull tips.
https://stunthanger.com/smf/combat/super-satan/
Best of Luck!
Tom
Thanks Tom
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It doesn't hurt, on a Super Satan , to put some vertical webs along the back edge of the leading edge sheeting and between the trailing edge pieces. The structure in not what you'd call robust and more than one has folded a wing.
I will Add that thanks for that input.
Jim
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Since my obsession with this design has not diminished since I was a young boy I'll share some of my findings with you.
I actually did exactly what phil suggests on my straight wing version. I'm not going to disagree with Phil because I have heard that. After many conversations with Larry, he always comes to the leading edge reinforcement being the culprit. He really never cared for the 1/8" 5ply leading edge brace. He said his all used 1/4"x3/8" Spruce reinforcement behind the leading edge rather than 5ply. The area in question is the notch for the engine. The 5 ply was a suggestion by Carl.
The two taper wing version 12 planes so far have not folded with the 1/8" doubler. The straight wing version with spruce doubler and sheer webs can also be used as a surf board. I did the sheer webs on that because I thought I needed the added rigdity because I was using monokote. I have since met Andre and he has a Monokoted Taper wing with no mods. His ofcourse is fitted tremendously well. A key to this design.
I plowed the straight wing in nose first at 120mph and the only things that survived were the leading edge and trailing edge, due to the sheer webs. Keep them light is key if you really want to maximize performance. I have 1 flight on my newest and I can see the improvements from 17 to 18.5 oz. He gives the suggested wood weights on the plan. Make sure you bush and put "L" bends on your stabilator pins! ask me how I know. I have some pics of interest to share.
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...
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Since my obsession with this design has not diminished since I was a young boy I'll share some of my findings with you.
I actually did exactly what phil suggests on my straight wing version. I'm not going to disagree with Phil because I have heard that. After many conversations with Larry, he always comes to the leading edge reinforcement being the culprit. He really never cared for the 1/8" 5ply leading edge brace. He said his all used 1/4"x3/8" Spruce reinforcement behind the leading edge rather than 5ply. The area in question is the notch for the engine. The 5 ply was a suggestion by Carl.
The two taper wing version 12 planes so far have not folded with the 1/8" doubler. The straight wing version with spruce doubler and sheer webs can also be used as a surf board. I had did the sheer webs on that because I thought I needed the added rigdity because I was using monokote. I have since met Andre and he has a Monokoted Taper wing with no mods. His ofcourse is fitted tremendously well. A key to this design.
I plowed the straight wing in nose first at 120mph and the only things that survived were the leading edge and trailing edge, due to the sheer webs. Keep them light is key if you really want to maximize performance. I have 1 flight on my newest and I can see the improvements from 17 to 18.5 oz. He gives the suggested wood weights on the plan. Make sure you bush and put "L" bends on your stabilator pins! ask me how I know. I have some pics of interest to share.
Everything that Tom sez.
My Scrambler design(M.A.N.-1971) , which has been flown to 119.7 MPH on 35% nitro has some of the Super Satan DNA. We built ours with the 5 ply brace and identical pacifier pod as the Super Satans.
No folds.
Two reasons:
1)The five ply was grain oriented properly; that it is span-wise.
2) Larry Scarinzi's pod is an INTEGRAL component of the the center-wing structure. If some other fuel cavity device(e.g.- Hormel Can, Miss Clariol soft nylon bottle, etc.) is used, all bets are off.
My Scrambler uses a "Warren-Truss" rib arrangement and thus no center spar. Never a fold.
I witnessed one fold in the late sixties by a NYC combat flyer who neglected to use Larry's fuel pod design.
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Tom And Frank thanks for the info will use.
Is this a typical pressure bladder system setup I could use?
http://texastimers.com/accessories/complete_pressure_bladder_assemb.htm
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The best route to take is with a pacifier. The fuel nacelle on the SS yields a 2-3/8" diameter cavity. A pacifier blows up like a ball as does a pipette bulb. The surgical tubing blows up more like a sausage. It could give you a false pressure.
Gerber pacifier works well and easy to obtain. Item# 76099
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The best route to take is with a pacifier. The fuel nacelle on the SS yields a 2-3/8" diameter cavity. A pacifier blows up like a ball as does a pipette bulb. The surgical tubing blows up more like a sausage. It could give you a false pressure.
Gerber pacifier works well and easy to obtain. Item# 76099
Ok Tom what do you use to connect the pacifier to the fuel tube. What's the connector you use? How long does the pacifier last?
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Jim,
Most guys use automotive vacuum fittings from the auto store. Get something that goes from 1/4" to an 1/8" barb. I'm sure one of the guys will chime in on their method.
I use old pacifier/filters from H&R products(no longer). It was specifically designed for this application. There's many ways to skin this cat. I believe Larry gives a detail on the plan of his technique.
The pacifier usually lasts a few months. The fuel deteriorates the latex and they'll get milky looking , that's when it's time to change. Make sure your nacelle is smooth inside so not to rupture it. Life expectancy all depends on how much you use it and make sure you drain fully after use. They're cheap at 2.79 for two.
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Reply# 51
https://stunthanger.com/smf/combat/sneeker-advice-needed/msg511398/#msg511398
Al
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Tom, Al thanks i got the idea,i will find my way with this help.
Thanks.
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Last year I had a set of plans sent to me for Larry to autograph. Larry got a kick out of that but he also made a change on the print which was adding a piece of spruce. This piece was behind the leading edge if I recall. He made the change on the plans in red and signed them. I sent the plans to my friend and no longer have them. Ken
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Last year I had a set of plans sent to me for Larry to autograph. Larry got a kick out of that but he also made a change on the print which was adding a piece of spruce. This piece was behind the leading edge if I recall. He made the change on the plans in red and signed them. I sent the plans to my friend and no longer have them. Ken
Friend??
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Jim, after reading Frank Imbriaco's post he explained in detail what Larry wasn't fond of. This was taken from Frank's post. I probably should've read all the posts thoroughly prior to my posting.
He really never cared for the 1/8" 5ply leading edge brace. He said his all used 1/4"x3/8" Spruce reinforcement behind the leading edge rather than 5ply. The area in question is the notch for the engine. The 5 ply was a suggestion by Carl.
Larry made the corrections on the plans I had and then signed them in his signatory red. He then followed it up with best wishes and the L/S Lightning bolt.
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Ken My Friend :
It was Tom Luciano's post. We Italians confuse a lot of people -lol
Please say "Hi " to Sean for me !
See ya,
Frank
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Ken My Friend :
It was Tom Luciano's post. We Italians confuse a lot of people -lol...
Lol, there sure are a lot of you Italians up yonder. When I was telling Bob Zambelli about Tom giving me the old SS, I asked if he knew Tom and Al, expecting he'd say, "Oh yeah, buncha great guys!" But nope, if he did, he must've forgotten.
Rusty