I've always wanted to build a Voodoo so here it is. It will be powered by G-21 .35. I extended the booms and provided a internal bladder compartment. A cool plane and I hope to fly it soon. Recently, I just came across some real nice 1" solid leading edge and I knew it was destined for this build. It's been quite fun and I may just have to use the red silk I've had laying around. All in all I truly enjoyed building this plane and looking forward to flying it. I recently had my Demon out and it's quite a smoker as well with a Fox MK3 on the nose. Ken

                             Paul, thank you for that tip on the hinge. I will certainly use that. Ken

                            Hi Frank, yes the booms were extended. I bolted the engine on the other day and I was seriously hoping it would either balance or be tail heavy. It actually nosed down. I'm not quite certain on how to get rid of any weight upfront. I didn't have the pushrod or horn on the rear. The hinge pins aren't epoxied in and glassed over either. I noticed when Larry Scarinzi was out at the field in the summer that he had a Super Satan with him. He had the booms sanded and tapered all done in clear. You can see the laminations of the ply and I really liked that look. I decided to go that route myself and tapered them a bit. Ken

Any pics of the finished model?

Ken,
You are a craftsman-  I vote that you do the silk !

 Lay it out( look at the grain), cut oversize, remove and mist wet. Lay over the wing half, stretch and pull out the wrinkles and dope down  the l.e , t.e, center section 1/2, then tips. Let it dry some and wisk, no -kiss on dope with a 3/4" camel hair brush that isn't saturated. Don't worry about filling grain yet. Get right to the back side panel half and repeat. That's  o.b. bottom, o.b. top same session. Then go to I.b. and do both same session. I.b. tougher due to leadouts. The key is to start with low shrink  butyrate and stick with it so it doesn't warp. Get qts. and corresponding thinner from Aircraft Spruce or Brodak.

I have a great article from Model Aviation on silking . Send me a PM if interested.

Of course, you'll want to keep this beauty out of the combat arena if you do use  silk ? God, I lost dozens of beautiful silked combat ships in the 60s. Was young, silk and dope were cheap, and I had lots of time.
 Otherwise, money kote it.
Have fun,
Frank

Ken, I found a Double Voo Doo kit at Perry GA swap meet, I understand the bladder system but what is the clear tube you are using as a casing? My brother and I plan to build them both and just have a little fun. The kit is old but everything is there, should we extend the boom also or just use the stock length? Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Russ

          I agree with Steve, that's what I used . I found that Home Depot sells them individually. These would be I believe the T-8 fluorescent bulb covers. I found plenty of the T-10's which were in the light bulb section but the T-8's were sold individually in the electrical section at my local Home Depot. I used 3/16" balsa end caps coated in epoxy and I rough the ends of the tube to accept the epoxy as you don't want the ends blowing out prematurely. In the Voodoo I have some concerns due to the tubes flexibility. If the entire tube isn't utilized during the filling process you could expand it breaking the wing. The main thing is making a tube lone enough and insuring that the bladder is all the way to the back of the tube filling and pulling simultaneously. This in my opinion also prevents any funny business as the bladder is depleting. I've had some spin in the tube choking off the fuel supply. Ken

What did you use for the tank tube looks lite and is it fuel proof?

Gordy

A plywood elevator might help if it's still nose heavy. Added durability is a plus, and if it doesn't work out, easily swapped out.

Yep, watch the elevator movement on most of those old combat planes.   My first VooDoo I had 30 degrees.  Needless to say it did not last long.   Max movement should be 15 degrees.  But, then I had a Scarinzi Giant Killer that took about three laps to get up to speed and then it was manageable.   Your VooDoo sure looks good and brings back memories.

Ken,
I have always used rocket tubes. But then I have to seal them with K&B epoxy paint.

I ironed FasCal on the inside of the bladder tubes, one reason why it took me so long to build an airplane.