Author Topic: Sneeker advice needed (Read 8926 times)

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #50 on:** February 11, 2018, 07:54:15 AM »

Well I guess I will give it a go! I really like the look of the smooth head, angled plug and especially the NVA! I honestly have a Fox 35 stunt on my Ringmaster and it has given me zero problems, all I did was to change the original needle valve to a Fox pointed one. I have read that a lot of people do not like Foxes. A question about the Baldie and fuel, what % oil should I use? My Fox likes 28%, the Tower 40 and my St G21 35( on my Sneeker) like 23% oil. Thanks for all the time and patience, Tim

Al Ferraro · « **Reply #51 on:** February 11, 2018, 09:34:38 AM »

I only use the Gerber 76099 pacifiers on all my Vintage combat engines, from my high nitro burning 128 mph Fox 36xbb power Super Satan, to my McCoy 35 Lightning bolt powered Hornet with the stock needle assy. I found the Pipettes bulbs or dropper bulbs to be weak and unreliable. I make my pacifiers by using a vacum hose connector inside of Dubro silicone fuel tubing, inside 1/2a combat bladder. Install that in the pacifier and wrap it with AWG24 coated wire between the vacuum tube barbs. The silicone fuel tubing is a lot easier to pinch but does not like to stay on the spray bar over 100 mph, so I use one inch of brass tubing to split the fuel line and use Dubro black neoprene at the spray bar. This also make it easier place to fill the bladder..
Al

Bob Mears · « **Reply #52 on:** February 11, 2018, 12:05:46 PM »

Quote from: pmackenzie on February 10, 2018, 09:21:12 AM

Hi Bob,
didn't realize you were rx8guy.

Your ebay listing does not allow shipping to Canada. Any way around this?
I have an old Bosta someone gave me, it needs a pacifier setup so I can fly it.

We are all North Americans after all, a Mexican F2D pilot should know that

Thanks,
Im sure I can. Order up and ill see what the shipping cost and let you know. If its too stupid we will just cancel the order

Pat MacKenzie

C.T. Schaefer · « **Reply #53 on:** February 11, 2018, 12:14:33 PM »

Either of those fuels should be fine. TS

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #54 on:** February 12, 2018, 12:43:26 AM »

Quote from: C.T. Schaefer on February 11, 2018, 12:14:33 PM

Either of those fuels should be fine. TS

Thanks. Well Bootlegger an I ran the 36X Combat Special yesterday on his test stand. Fuel was 10% nitro with a Castor/synthetic blend totaling 23% with a 10x5 prop. Very picky on the needle setting but finally got it to start. What a beast! 14,000 RPM! We ran it 4 times and called it quits. We did add a gasket to the head as it had none and changed the Phillips head screws to hex type screws before we started it. Does anyone have any information on this engine? 36X Combat Special baldie. I do not have an owners manual. Plan to run it with a 9x7, on a bladder in a Sneeker that I am about to build. Thanks, Tim

C.T. Schaefer · « **Reply #55 on:** February 12, 2018, 06:22:56 AM »

It might be easier to set the needle with a S-T type assembly. Probably the Smith/Nelson would be the best available now. Gsket is a good idea!!. TS

Bob Mears · « **Reply #56 on:** February 12, 2018, 08:07:15 AM »

Quote from: Tim Chenevert on February 12, 2018, 12:43:26 AM

Thanks. Well Bootlegger an I ran the 36X Combat Special yesterday on his test stand. Fuel was 10% nitro with a Castor/synthetic blend totaling 23% with a 10x5 prop. Very picky on the needle setting but finally got it to start. What a beast! 14,000 RPM! We ran it 4 times and called it quits. We did add a gasket to the head as it had none and changed the Phillips head screws to hex type screws before we started it. Does anyone have any information on this engine? 36X Combat Special baldie. I do not have an owners manual. Plan to run it with a 9x7, on a bladder in a Sneeker that I am about to build. Thanks, Tim

This engine was the predecessor of Fox's real schnuerle engines. He modified the 36x case to add a port on the front and back of the cylinder. After that engine he redesigned the case with the tall back plate for larger schnuerle porting.

Lyle Spiegel · « **Reply #57 on:** February 21, 2018, 04:06:37 AM »

Is there any way to determine if Baldie is an early or later version? I have one NIB, not planning to run it on anything more than Powermaster 10-22 with a 9-7 prop. (my days of BLAST with 8-8 prop are over, lol!)

Andre Ming · « **Reply #58 on:** February 21, 2018, 04:45:22 AM »

Lyle:

I "think" I recall that the early ones didn't have a web in the exhaust, and later did?

Way too many decades have gone by for me to remember all the mfg'ing nuances "back then" when it was my daily job. Hopefully someone that's more knowledgeable than I will step in and give more accurate info. One thing that I vividly recall is the debacle for that engine that the "Second Operations" department created. Cost a guy his job... rightly so.

Andre

C.T. Schaefer · « **Reply #59 on:** February 21, 2018, 05:51:20 AM »

Andre, More of that story would be very interesting. No names needed. Thanks, TS

Paul Smith · « **Reply #60 on:** February 21, 2018, 08:44:42 AM »

Your ebay listing does not allow shipping to Canada. Any way around this?
I have an old Bosta someone gave me, it needs a pacifier setup so I can fly it.

We are all North Americans after all, a Mexican F2D pilot should know that

Thanks,

Pat MacKenzie
[/quote]

Ebay does ship to Rouge Park & Toledo.

Chad Hill · « **Reply #61 on:** February 21, 2018, 09:32:22 AM »

Quote from: C.T. Schaefer on February 11, 2018, 06:14:41 AM

Tim, Andre's comments are pretty much right on, but this motor had tons of power compared to the 36x. I had a Voodoo with an LS .36xbb and it was pretty fast. When the 'baldie' came out we wanted to compare. LS tuned the needle and launched. It was an easy 5 mph faster than before!! But..... the front of the crank snapped and the second shaft also snapped. These were from the very first batch. Another pal got one a little later and it is still running. So, I would give it a go. It will be thrilling!! TS

* * * * *

I'm not a Fox guy, but maybe the "Baldies" had the same problem that I've heard the early Mk3s had. The Mk3 cranks would break because the hardened thrust washer had an incorrect radius on the back (rear) inside hole diameter. When a prop was tightened down it caused a stress riser on the crankshaft, which would eventually lead to failure.

Howard Rush · « **Reply #62 on:** February 28, 2018, 10:17:18 AM »

The early, black shafts were bad. I had a good shaft, but mine cracked at the bottom of the front bearing housing.

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #63 on:** February 28, 2018, 11:36:34 AM »

I am not sure what shaft this one is? It does run very good and is very powerful!

Howard Rush · « **Reply #64 on:** February 28, 2018, 11:43:59 AM »

I’d sell it to a Fox collector. Any value it has as an engine is temporary.

Terrence Durrill · « **Reply #65 on:** February 28, 2018, 01:28:35 PM »

Quote from: Howard Rush on February 28, 2018, 10:17:18 AM

The early, black shafts were bad. I had a good shaft, but mine cracked at the bottom of the front bearing housing.

Yeah, but Howard, you were kinown to run 60 to 70% nitro. (as was written on your fuel jug in 1966 at the Glenview Nats......... "10% more nitro than you are running" ...... I peeked !)

Fredvon4 · « **Reply #66 on:** February 28, 2018, 01:57:26 PM »

C.T Shaefer

Hard to search for and I doubt Andre Ming has saved copies of all HIS very informative posts on all the sites

so some digging is needed... I have read with much interest his Musing of his time at Fox...lots of back stories of his interactions with duke

some is here on SH but a lot on RC Groups...not sure if any on RC Universe or Stuka Stunt

Dane Martin · « **Reply #67 on:** February 28, 2018, 02:14:10 PM »

Tim, when we talked on the phone, I didn't realize that was the engine you meant. Trade that away for one that actually says combat special on the case. I think I sold mine, but I'll check. It could last you a while, but you could also catch the prop wrong landing and mess it up.

kenneth cook · « **Reply #68 on:** February 28, 2018, 02:17:02 PM »

Chad is 100% correct on the MK III. While this topic isn't in regards to that engine, it certainly looks like the same drive washer on the "Baldie". This would be a 3 cog drive on the crank. I use a ball mill and radius the back edge of the hole enough so that it isn't resting on the radius of the crank. While the crank is intact now, that kind of stress over time on the crank will snap it right where it exits the case.It's done it to my MK III's. One thing I don't like in regards to a Red Cap is the size hole within it. You have to use a large piece of tubing inside of it, then neck it down once again for your fuel tubing. This is just asking for a leak.

badbill · « **Reply #69 on:** February 28, 2018, 03:00:10 PM »

Quote from: kenneth cook on February 28, 2018, 02:17:02 PM

One thing I don't like in regards to a Red Cap is the size hole within it. You have to use a large piece of tubing inside of it, then neck it down once again for your fuel tubing. This is just asking for a leak.

No need for all that. I use the plugs from Texas Timers with no tubing at all inside the Red Cap and it works perfect. Regular tubing works fine to the engine.

phil c · « **Reply #70 on:** March 07, 2018, 04:59:52 PM »

Quote from: Tim Chenevert on February 28, 2018, 11:36:34 AM

I am not sure what shaft this one is? It does run very good and is very powerful!

Besides looking at the thrust washer and fixing the rear radius problem, there's not much to be done. The early shafts also had also had a hardening problem and would break across the port. Duke introduced the baldie at one NATS, I believe. The Mark III came out early the next spring, with an offer to accept the shiny case version in for trade. Most of them went back. If you got a good shaft they ran well and were lighter than the III.

But really, it's more valuable as a collectors item, or just to have, than to use it. The case can crack too. The 36X case just isn't strong enough to be reliable in a production engine that has a lot more horsepower.

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #71 on:** March 07, 2018, 07:17:08 PM »

I have already drilled the motor beams for this engine, will the 35x fit? I have another Sneeker with a ST 35 on it but the bolt patterns are different. Tim

Andre Ming · « **Reply #72 on:** March 07, 2018, 09:02:50 PM »

Going on memory here:

As I recall, the Baldhead had the same bolt pattern as most of the Fox combat engines from the early 60's on. A 35X or 36X NB/BB should bolt up to your motor mount beams drilled for the Baldhead. I THINK.

Wow. Never thought some of my old Fox spec memories would get so fuzzy.

Andre

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #73 on:** March 13, 2018, 04:42:10 PM »

I was talking with Bootlegger earlier and the topic of wing tip weight came up. Has anyone put wing tip weights on their Sneekers? The plans do not show any or mention them. Thanks, Tim

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #74 on:** March 13, 2018, 05:49:38 PM »

That is exactly what Gil said. Just checking, Tim