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I use copper or brass tubing to run the cable through before bending it in the bell crank so it can be wrapped or swaged.    Have to anneal the brass tubing with heat so it bends easier.

What Bill said.......bellcrank buttons.  Available here https://www.mcmaster.com/#90596a005/=zir19n

Excuse me being a little bit offtopic, (I write not about FOX bellcrank) but
an essetial principle is by me not to pair metal to metal by any moving connection.
Reason: not only the abrasion counts , but vibration as well, when wearing appears.
So I use always (hard, polished) metal + "self lubricating" plastic pairs. Plastic was in ancient times textile-bakelite (Textolite), and in the recent 18 years ZX-100.
See:
http://www.plasticbearings.com/index.php?id=344&L=2
and here:
https://plus.google.com/photos/117790355930193335731/album/5715088163776972593/5715089525767871586

Most Combat planes will be dead and gone long before a lead out wears though........

This...

But not on nostalgia replica's intended to sport fly. I'm still flying replica airplanes of combat planes from the 60's that were built decades ago and have many, many flights on them.

Andre

Make the leadout ends with eyelets, just like lines. Bolt the leadouts to the bellcrank with 4-40 blind nut "buttons" and short 4-40 screws.

Where did you get the 440 hex head blind nuts?
Al

Im building a Voodoo type wing can I use piano wire with 80 to 100# Strength. Thanks

Never worried about bushing a bellcrank on a combat type ship or a racing plane for that matter.   The combat planes did not last that long and the racing planes do not have the constant full movement so the braded leadout on racing planes lasts for years.

FAST combat new style or old skool Big Iron , Raunchy, VooDoo, Equalizer, or all others with inside wing BC.....

Most competitive Fast Big Block combat is flown with foam wings and top side BC and fuel cuts... yes there is/ are lot of East Europe made ARFs with internal controls

Top side BCs are usually best with Buttons and line lengths in regulation Eyelet to eyelet of 60' +/-6"

In my opinion old skool for nostalgie craft that might not ever see for than 50 flights ever...who cares....

we have plenty of historical facts that aluminum or nylon Bell cranks do NOT cut the solid or stranded lead-outs....rather the Bell Crank or Horns wear and do get sloppy...crap there dozens of photos of this wear here on SH in the Brett Buck sandwich Bell Crank threads

on the other hand the effort and practice to make the lead out to Bell Crank interface most long lived and least drag...copper tube and 7 strand stainless .037 with adjustable guides is not hard to fabricate