stunthanger.com
General control line discussion => Classifieds => Topic started by: bob whitney on September 21, 2024, 11:22:28 AM
-
OK CUB 60 ON DISPLAY STAND WITH COIL AND CONDENSER AND TANK
looks to have been run but never mounted in plane .been in storage over 20 years, needs good cleaning $75 pllus shipping
-
Bob - If it’s the front rotor version, that’s a great price for a great engine!
By the way, which OK 60 is it?
There were two different models.
But not CUBS.
Bob Z.
-
Didn't they refer to the .60 as the Mohawk?
-
Hi, Ty.
There were a number of Mohawks (Mohawk county, NY).
Made by Herkimer Tool Co.
They were all 29s - somewhere I have a bunch of them!
Bob Z.
-
i am not up on this motor but can send pictures by email to anyone interested
-
i am not up on this motor but can send pictures by email to anyone interested
Hi Bob,
If possible I would like photos of the ok 60.
Thanks in Advance
Mike Pratt
-
Mikey, need your email address Bob
-
Please post a picture or three.
-
mikey, need your email address
-
The OK 60 was made (by Herkimer Tool) in three versions:
OK 60: Spark ignition, rear port induction, hang tank, rear mounted timer, finless head. I've seen these but never owned one.
OK SUPER 60: Spark ignition, standard front intake, ball bearing front end, rear mounted timer, finless head. GREAT ENGINE!!!!!!!
OK SUPER 60 GLOW: standard front intake, ball bearing front end, no timer, finned gold head. Very rare according to OK factory.
None of the 60s were called OK CUB. That nomenclature was reserved for the small engines - .039 up to the .35.
I have extensive experience with the SUPER 60 sparker. If anyone needs assistance or parts, let me know - I will gladly help IF I can.
Bob Z.
ps - I now have well over 1,000 flights on my Viking using the same OK SUPER 60. Compression still like new.
Fuel was always 75% gasoline with 25% oil and a touch of nitrobenzine. - originally straight castor, now 50/50 castor/synthetic.
AC spark plug.
Assorted 12-8 wood props.
-
mikey, need your email address
Hi Bob,
Here ya go,
prattmike251@gmail.com
Thanks,
Mike
-
The OK 60 was made (by Herkimer Tool) in three versions:
OK 60: Spark ignition, rear port induction, hang tank, rear mounted timer, finless head. I've seen these but never owned one.
OK SUPER 60: Spark ignition, standard front intake, ball bearing front end, rear mounted timer, finless head. GREAT ENGINE!!!!!!!
OK SUPER 60 GLOW: standard front intake, ball bearing front end, no timer, finned gold head. Very rare according to OK factory.
None of the 60s were called OK CUB. That nomenclature was reserved for the small engines - .039 up to the .35.
I have extensive experience with the SUPER 60 sparker. If anyone needs assistance or parts, let me know - I will gladly help IF I can.
Bob Z.
ps - I now have well over 1,000 flights on my Viking using the same OK SUPER 60. Compression still like new.
Fuel was always 75% gasoline with 25% oil and a touch of nitrobenzine. - originally straight castor, now 50/50 castor/synthetic.
AC spark plug.
Assorted 12-8 wood props.
Hi Bob,
Check and see if you happen to have wrist pin, connecting rod for OK Super 60, I have another one that I’m trying to get into running condition, also, how much do you want for them?
Thanks,
Mike Pratt
-
Hi, Mike - I think I can help you.
First off, the original Super 60 wrist pin was made from bronze - NOT GOOD.
In time, it would distort/bend and cause the internal piston bosses to crack and break, usually a catastrophic failure. I found this out the hard way.
I use a 3/16 inch hardened dowel pin, usually available at hardware stores. Using a Dremel and cutoff wheel, size the pin so that it is around .005 to .008 inch shorter than the piston diameter. Polish the ends to a mirror-like finish (VERY important).
There is another type of wrist pin fix that I'll save for later.
Secondly, I have a good number of Super 60 parts.
When I get home, I'll look and see if I can come up with a connecting rod for you.
There are two types - plain and ribbed.
I'm not sure if there is a functional difference - maybe to reduce weight?
In any case, send me your phone number (I don't like to type) and I'll give you a few more hints from my experience with the Super 60.
It's really a great engine and I recommend it to anyone wanting to become a "Sparky".
Bob Z.
-
Hi, Mike - I think I can help you.
First off, the original Super 60 wrist pin was made from bronze - NOT GOOD.
In time, it would distort/bend and cause the internal piston bosses to crack and break, usually a catastrophic failure. I found this out the hard way.
I use a 3/16 inch hardened dowel pin, usually available at hardware stores. Using a Dremel and cutoff wheel, size the pin so that it is around .005 to .008 inch shorter than the piston diameter. Polish the ends to a mirror-like finish (VERY important).
There is another type of wrist pin fix that I'll save for later.
Secondly, I have a good number of Super 60 parts.
Hi Bob,
I have a large number of ign engines, Atwood, Anderson, Super Cyc, McCoy, OK Super 60, Bantam 19, O&R’s and so on. I’ve never had a problem getting them to run and handle properly, I’m also a collector of engines of all types. I have a total of four OK Super 60’s one glow, two ign, the forth one is just parts, I could use a connecting rod, wrist pin, and a timer lever (maybe I can salvage it) and a points set. The piston seems to be ok (no cracks in the pin boss) and has a good seal between the piston and cylinder. I think it would be very good engine to get into running condition.
Thanks in Advance,
Mike Pratt
Prattmike251@gmail.com
612-394-3678
When I get home, I'll look and see if I can come up with a connecting rod for you.
There are two types - plain and ribbed.
I'm not sure if there is a functional difference - maybe to reduce weight?
In any case, send me your phone number (I don't like to type) and I'll give you a few more hints from my experience with the Super 60.
It's really a great engine and I recommend it to anyone wanting to become a "Sparky".
Bob Z.
-
Mike - I called and left a voicemail.
Did you receive it?
Bob Z.