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Classic Designs => Classic Planes => Topic started by: Chris Lambdin on December 15, 2022, 11:49:03 AM
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Getting ready to start a Twister build. Planning on using an FPS 35 with tongue muffler..building all stock except for making mods to accommodate the extra weight of the 35 FP.. looking for suggestions….Thanks
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Do search for Twister and decide for your self. My self I added to the tail of the fuselage moving the stab back. But I have also built the Twister box stock with LA 35 and tongue muffler. Biggest thing is build light and straight. D>K
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Do search for Twister and decide for your self. My self I added to the tail of the fuselage moving the stab back. But I have also built the Twister box stock with LA 35 and tongue muffler. Biggest thing is build light and straight. D>K
Thanks!
How much did you add to the length!
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I added 1 1/2" to mine. They fly well nose heavy (to a point). Probably one of the most discussed planes on the site. Get some popcorn and search "Twister". It will take a week to read it all!
Ken
FYI: There are over 1.600 posts covering the Twister.
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Do search for Twister and decide for your self. My self I added to the tail of the fuselage moving the stab back. But I have also built the Twister box stock with LA 35 and tongue muffler. Biggest thing is build light and straight. D>K
John,
Since there isn't an LA 35, I'm assuming you meant either an LA .25 or and FP .35. Which did you mean?
Joe Ed Pederson
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All I remember is it was an OS. D>K
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All I remember is it was an OS. D>K
Probably an FP35
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Probably an FP35
If you are sure that what you have is an FP-.35, I would only shorten the nose about 1/2" to 3/4" and not worry about the length of the fuselage, especially if this plane will be used to just learn the pattern. The stock airplane in the hands of an expert level pilot will fly well enough to score over 500 points every time out. You main interest will be just in making it straight, with no warps and generally sound construction. To check on how things will fit, lay out the engine on the plans, moved back about 3/4", and place a 4 ounce tank of some kind behind it with about 3/4" room between the engine back end, and see where the back end of the tank is , in relation to the leading edge of the wing.. If there is still some room, you should be all set. As you get closer to the point of flying it and checking balance, you have the option of using a tongue muffler, or an after market tube muffler if you can find one to help with balance. If it comes out a bit node heavy, that isn't the end of the world for a beginner and will help you out in the long run. As you build the fuselage, inlay a 1" square section of hard wood into the tail end under the horizontal stab, as far back as you can and still have it surrounded by balsa. Drill a nice 1/8" hole through it right in the middle, and install a 4-40 blind nut on one side, just like you would for the engine mounts. This will be a nice handy place for you to mount tail weight, should you need it. You can make or buy square lead weights in 1/4 to 1/2 ounce increments with a matching hole, then use a 4-40 screw to hold them in place. A think piece of card stock under the weight protects the fuselage, and in between any weights that you stack up will help absorb vibration. Make the bolt long enough to go through the blind nut on the other side and you can install a jam nut there also for security.
Get the model finished and ready to fly and then check the forum for engine set up for the FP-35. Basically a hot plug and 10-4 prop will get you off the ground on 60 foot lines. It's not that much different from the LA.40 and .46 set ups, but you just need smaller diameter props.
Have fun and MERRY CHRISTMAS!!
Dan McEntee
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If you are sure that what you have is an FP-.35, I would only shorten the nose about 1/2" to 3/4" and not worry about the length of the fuselage, especially if this plane will be used to just learn the pattern. The stock airplane in the hands of an expert level pilot will fly well enough to score over 500 points every time out. You main interest will be just in making it straight, with no warps and generally sound construction. To check on how things will fit, lay out the engine on the plans, moved back about 3/4", and place a 4 ounce tank of some kind behind it with about 3/4" room between the engine back end, and see where the back end of the tank is , in relation to the leading edge of the wing.. If there is still some room, you should be all set. As you get closer to the point of flying it and checking balance, you have the option of using a tongue muffler, or an after market tube muffler if you can find one to help with balance. If it comes out a bit node heavy, that isn't the end of the world for a beginner and will help you out in the long run. As you build the fuselage, inlay a 1" square section of hard wood into the tail end under the horizontal stab, as far back as you can and still have it surrounded by balsa. Drill a nice 1/8" hole through it right in the middle, and install a 4-40 blind nut on one side, just like you would for the engine mounts. This will be a nice handy place for you to mount tail weight, should you need it. You can make or buy square lead weights in 1/4 to 1/2 ounce increments with a matching hole, then use a 4-40 screw to hold them in place. A think piece of card stock under the weight protects the fuselage, and in between any weights that you stack up will help absorb vibration. Make the bolt long enough to go through the blind nut on the other side and you can install a jam nut there also for security.
Get the model finished and ready to fly and then check the forum for engine set up for the FP-35. Basically a hot plug and 10-4 prop will get you off the ground on 60 foot lines. It's not that much different from the LA.40 and .46 set ups, but you just need smaller diameter props.
Have fun and MERRY CHRISTMAS!!
Dan McEntee
Dan,
Thanks for all the great suggestions and yes it is an FP 35 I bought it new back in the 80’s I usually run it with a apc 10.5X4.5 prop…. I plan on doing exactly as you suggested and set the engine back and leave the fuselage stock length. After doing some measuring and laying everything out I can get 5/8-3/4 of an inch setback and still have room for the 3.5 ounce Uniflow tank…
Merry Christmas!!
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I do have one more question regarding rudder offset should I build per plan with 1/4in offset or no offset?
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I do have one more question regarding rudder offset should I build per plan with 1/4in offset or no offset?
I do have one more question regarding rudder offset should I build per plan with 1/4in offset or no offset?
make it adjustable and start with it centered. Mine did take about 1/8" to keep it tight in the OH8.
Ken
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Any got suggestions on make the rudder adjustable?
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Any got suggestions on make the rudder adjustable?
Two methods. Most people just hinge the rudder like it was a flap and use an RC horn with a clevis. I am lazy and use three pieces of #12 coper wire glued in like you would a Robart hinge.
Ken
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Two methods. Most people just hinge the rudder like it was a flap and use an RC horn with a clevis. I am lazy and use three pieces of #12 coper wire glued in like you would a Robart hinge.
Ken
Any trouble with the rudder deflecting in flight with the copper wire?
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Any trouble with the rudder deflecting in flight with the copper wire?
Any trouble with the rudder deflecting in flight with the copper wire?
No. 12 gauge is pretty stout at that length. Never had an issue.
Ken
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Any trouble with the rudder deflecting in flight with the copper wire?
The only problem with a wire hinge is accidentally bumping into it and changing your setting. It's better to have a horn, clevis and short rod to anchor it and hold your adjustment. It only has to move a tiny bit for the whole rudder to have some effect. Try the search function to find some threads with photos.
Type at you later
and HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!
Dan McEntee
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Two methods. Most people just hinge the rudder like it was a flap and use an RC horn with a clevis. I am lazy and use three pieces of #12 coper wire glued in like you would a Robart hinge.
Ken
If you go with the horn + clevis then you can always move the rudder by a controlled amount. If you're organized enough to keep a diary, you can then go back to an exact setting you had before (i.e., if you start experimenting, then five flights later decide you want to go back to the starting point, then if you've kept track, you know exactly how many turns in or out you need to put on the thing to get there). Any adjustment method that involves bending metal means that you're bending the metal and then hoping that you've moved it enough -- and there's no way of confidently going back to a prior setting.
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If you go with the horn + clevis then you can always move the rudder by a controlled amount. If you're organized enough to keep a diary, you can then go back to an exact setting you had before (i.e., if you start experimenting, then five flights later decide you want to go back to the starting point, then if you've kept track, you know exactly how many turns in or out you need to put on the thing to get there). Any adjustment method that involves bending metal means that you're bending the metal and then hoping that you've moved it enough -- and there's no way of confidently going back to a prior setting.
When it comes to very small trim adjustments, I personally think much of it is psychological. If you think you need some rudder the plane will magically fly better when you give it some. If I were to tell you I moved your rudder 1/16" you would probably notice the difference. If I told you I did it but did nothing there are probably only a handful of our top fliers that would notice that the rudder was unchanged. On a Nats bound PA I would certainly use a more precise rudder arrangement, but on a practice Twister I don't think the level of perfection between the two systems will ever be noticed.
In hot water as usual - Ken LL~ LL~
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** Duplicate **
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Be sure to go to the main forum to type in Twister. You will get 54 pages of information
Ed