Author Topic: Repairing the Cobra (Read 7098 times)

Randy Powell · « **on:** September 19, 2007, 11:19:09 AM »

OK, so I've been working on my Cobra. I figured I'd have to change out the elevator horn because the 2 to 3 hookup seemed to have problems. In flying, the thing was just too quick. I tend to set up my controls to be very, very slow and use a lot of line spacing to fine tune the feel. But with the Cobra, I ended up with very narrow line spacing (to the point of complete loss of control feel) in order to get it to be controlable ... sorta.

Anyway, after a lot of thought, I decided that the 2 to 3 hook up of the controls (per plan) wasn't really the problem, it was the pivot distance at the bellcrank. I decided that the pushrod pivot was just too far from the center and I was getting too much and too fast of movement. So I cut in and had to drill a new hole in the bellcrank and move the pushrod closer to the pivot. Nice thing about an I-Beam is no center sheeting. So just had to cut into the top and bottom block. Anyway, I moved the thing in about 3/16" of an inch and now, while I still get the 2 to 3 movement, I have a lot more throw the controls should be substantially slowed down. So that was easier than I thought it would be (did have to put a new ball link in - long story on the that).

I picked up some 30 minute stripper at the local hardware place. Turns out it works a bit too well. It went right through the paint, silkspan and all right down to the wood. Doesn't seem to have any effect on the balsa, but it takes EVERYTHING off. Sigh... So it will be starting from scratch. Not a bad thing since this was a quicky finish that was very heavy.

I figure to take as much as 6oz off the final weight with a new finish. Fun Stuff.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #1 on:** September 19, 2007, 12:53:23 PM »

you go Randy, were watching,

Randy Powell · « **Reply #2 on:** September 19, 2007, 01:57:33 PM »

Mark,

I'll post some pictures when I get it stripped. I'm a little miffed that I didn't strip it first. Would have made patching the cuts to fix the bellcrank easier to do. Sigh... Oh well, I wanted to see if the change would fix things (as it has). The other advantage to stripping EVERYTHING off is, I can reshape the wheelpants and top and bottome blocks a bit to more closely match the original plane. I hadn't seen a picture of the original Cobra when I built this plane and was surprised to see how different it really was than the kit. Sigh again. But now I can make some changes to make it a bit closer.

RandySmith · « **Reply #3 on:** September 19, 2007, 02:28:02 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on September 19, 2007, 01:57:33 PM

Mark,

I'll post some pictures when I get it stripped. I'm a little miffed that I didn't strip it first. Would have made patching the cuts to fix the bellcrank easier to do. Sigh... Oh well, I wanted to see if the change would fix things (as it has). The other advantage to stripping EVERYTHING off is, I can reshape the wheelpants and top and bottome blocks a bit to more closely match the original plane. I hadn't seen a picture of the original Cobra when I built this plane and was surprised to see how different it really was than the kit. Sigh again. But now I can make some changes to make it a bit closer.

and you can make the outer half of the wheel pants removable so you can change the wheels when you wear them out from flying it so much !!!

Randy

EddyR · « **Reply #4 on:** September 19, 2007, 07:54:47 PM »

Randy I built four Cobra's over the years. I used very slow controls on all but the first one.Also I used a little less than one to one and the plane never needed more than 20 degrees of movement to fly very well. I built three Juno's also and found that the two planes flew very much the same. The first one was light and was powered with a .35 . The last three were powered but ST/40-46 motors and weighted from 47 to 53 and all flew very well. The heaver ones with the .46 in them were the best flying ones. Also I mounted the bellcrank behind the spar. The pushrod ran from the bellcrank to the elevator. The flap pushrod ran from the flap horn back to the center of the elevator pushrod. Very simple and bullet proof.
Ed Ruane

Randy Powell · « **Reply #5 on:** September 20, 2007, 09:03:47 AM »

Hi Ed,

I like the Cobra, but when I originally built it a couple of years ago, I was in something of a hurry to get it done for VSC (year before last). The finish suffered. My buddy Pat Johnston did the CAD plans for the plane and was pretty concerned about the designated control hookups and want to know how it worked out. I've email him to say that he should alter the plans to move the pushod in on the bellcrank to slow them down. While i really liked the plane overall, it was hard to fly because of the too fast controls. Just couldn't get any consistency out of it. Hopefully, that will be cured.

I am again in something of a hurry (but not too much) since it has to be ready to go by November 10th. That's when my snowbird friend is heading to Tucson and will take the plane with him to hang ingloriously on his garage wall until March when I'll show up for VSC.

Hmmm, black is probably a bad color for a plane that is going to live in Tucson, huh?

EddyR · « **Reply #6 on:** September 20, 2007, 02:34:45 PM »

Randy I saw the remains of several of Steve's planes back in the 60's One used two pushrods from the bellcrank and one was done like I do them. Maybe that is were I first saw the method. I saw him fly the Argus and he was very smooth compared to most of the other flyers that day. Around 1961 at a contest in Buffalo NY. Also his Argus had a bubble canopy. I flew a All American Sr that day. On my first Cobra I used a three inch bellcrank but I used very tall horns in all of them. About 6 years ago I was ready to trash out my very old Cobra so I removed the ST/46 from it and put in a ST/35. I added nose weight and a shaft extension. It flew fine.
Ed

Randy Powell · « **Reply #7 on:** September 20, 2007, 02:43:13 PM »

Ed,

Yea, there's more than one way to skin a cat. I've seen some strange control systems that seemed to work fine; even well.

This is a conventional system. And now I think it will work pretty well.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #8 on:** September 20, 2007, 10:35:39 PM »

One note. That stripper I picked up is NASTY. I accidentally spilled some on my arm tonight. I now sport a nice big, red welt. I washed it off with lots of water immediately as the directions say, but it didn't help all that much. I was wearing gloves, but I think I'll go with long sleeves for the next bit. Sheesh!

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #9 on:** September 20, 2007, 11:09:58 PM »

Randy,
I thought I warned you about having strippers at your house, my Sig other also gets angry and I end up with welts too when the strippers get on the loose.

Howard Rush · « **Reply #10 on:** September 21, 2007, 07:41:11 PM »

Randy, I told you to stay away from those nasty strippers.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #11 on:** September 21, 2007, 08:43:48 PM »

Howard,

Look who's talking. I have pics from last year's Roundup. You and the belly dancers as I remember.

Howard had them eating out of his hand.

And just to keep this on topic, here are some pictures of the progress on the Cobra. Remember the Cobra?

Bill Little · « **Reply #12 on:** September 21, 2007, 09:20:06 PM »

Hi Randy,

Now I remember another reason I like to use full length nylon taffeta hinges.......... I never have to worry abut removing the flaps/elevators if I have to recover the plane!

Randy Powell · « **Reply #13 on:** September 21, 2007, 09:29:25 PM »

Yea, I'm building new control surfaces. Had to cut the old ones off. Sigh...

But at least this time I can use a built up flap. Maybe shave a half ounce off and be stiffer.

The problem with this stripper is it really softens the paper underneath. I can pull most of it off, but it's going to take some sanding before it's ready for new covering. I may do some light sanding then slop on a coat of unthinned non-taunting clear to sort of seal everything back down before I really go after it. I plan to reshape the top and bottom block and the wheel pants to more closely resemble the original. That should be fun with some silkspan still on it.

Bill Little · « **Reply #14 on:** September 21, 2007, 09:51:03 PM »

Heck, Dude! Just hit with some more of that "NASTY STRIPPER"!

Randy Powell · « **Reply #15 on:** September 27, 2007, 02:01:45 PM »

Hey Bill,

Yea, I hit it several times and now have most of the silkspan off. Interestingly, you can peel it right off if the stuff is still wet, but once it dries, it really locks it down. I got as much as I could off then sanded the airframe. I had a problems in that the silkspan went of before the fillets so when I pull the silkspan off, a lot of fillet came off with it. Still OK, but I will have to redo the fillets after it's recovered. I have it about half sanded and the control surfaces about half done. I'm having to fix some stuff that didn't work out all that well like the 1/64" plywood backing for the screws that hold the cowl down. They have worn through. They have been replaced with some carbon sheet that seems like it will hold up well.

I hope to get the whole thing sanded tonight and I'll slop a coat of clear on the airframe to be sure whatever silkspan is left is locked down, then I'll probably recover this weekend.

Fun stuff.

Bill Little · « **Reply #16 on:** September 28, 2007, 01:18:55 AM »

Hi Randy,

Glad to hear that things are coming along with the Cobra.

I have been starting to feel better, physically, and have been back at the table! The Little/Hunt Mustang is finnally getting some more work done on it. The wing is about ready to cover, just the final detail sanding and then the silkspan! The tail pieces are covered, primed and ready for the blocking coat. Front top block is read, and I am carving a foam buck for the rear turtle deck. So far, so good.

I am VERY happy with the control system so far. Just the weight of the flap horn makes the system slam from one xtreme to the other when you flip the wing over, but there is no slop in it!

Looking forward to seeing your Cobra back in paint!

Randy Powell · « **Reply #17 on:** September 28, 2007, 12:38:58 PM »

I've mostly got a paint scheme figured out. I haven't decided if I'm going to keep the, uh, feminine artwork. I may go with something else.

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #18 on:** September 29, 2007, 11:12:23 PM »

PLEASE keep the artwork!

I liked the paint scheme a lot, but you might come up with something better. Something like "Tango Red" would be cool, and appropriate on a Classic, I think, maybe in different colors (not green!).

Steve

Randy Powell · « **Reply #19 on:** September 30, 2007, 12:19:20 AM »

Steve,

The paint scheme is going to be a modification of the original one I used. Different colors (mostly). Black, white, orange and red. Just haven't decided on the, uh, decorations. It's just about ready to start refinishing. I had to built a second set of flaps and the first set sort of bowed on me. Took some extra time.

Allen Brickhaus · « **Reply #20 on:** October 01, 2007, 12:33:51 PM »

The Before Shots

Allen Brickhaus

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #21 on:** October 01, 2007, 07:13:07 PM »

Boy, I like it just the way it is...but it would also be very cool if you switched the red and yellow...

Steve

Randy Powell · « **Reply #22 on:** October 02, 2007, 04:27:43 PM »

Thanks for the pictures, Alan. I can remember it for what it was.

Stevie,

Thank Bill Werwage's Juno. That's the general idea. Just hope the dark colors I'm planning will hold up in the Tucson sun.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #23 on:** October 06, 2007, 12:33:00 AM »

OK, it's partially covered, The wings and the nose. I'll be at the Salem contest this weekend, but will get back on it next week. Had to build a new flight box. He, he.

Jim Oliver · « **Reply #24 on:** October 16, 2007, 08:18:17 AM »

OK guys,

Ya got me hooked! I want a Cobra! Which version is the one to build? I think I would like the larger one--
55 inch span. OK ot not???

Thanks,
Jim

Bill Little · « **Reply #25 on:** October 16, 2007, 08:48:14 AM »

Quote from: Jim Oliver on October 16, 2007, 08:18:17 AM

OK guys,

Ya got me hooked! I want a Cobra! Which version is the one to build? I think I would like the larger one--
55 inch span. OK ot not???

Thanks,
Jim

Hi Jim,

I responded the same way to your other post..... I don't know of more than one version.

And it is the one that is somewhere around 54"-55"

Randy Powell · « **Reply #26 on:** October 16, 2007, 12:31:03 PM »

This is the Walter Umland version with plans done by Pat Johnston. Only comment I'll make is when doing the controls, ignore the plans and uses a 1 to 1 hook up and put the pushrod closer to the bellcrank pivot.

Jim Oliver · « **Reply #27 on:** October 16, 2007, 05:59:48 PM »

Thanks,
Now if I can get a certain guy to answer his E-mail, I will get plans.

Jim

Randy Powell · « **Reply #28 on:** October 17, 2007, 10:06:54 AM »

Jim,

I have the plans in .DWG format if you want them. I took them to a local print shop and had them printed. They are the Pat Johnston plans.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #29 on:** October 17, 2007, 05:54:29 PM »

Randy,
glad to see the Cobra coming back to its glory. Always loved this plane much. ONe note , the local print shops around here cant or wont print cad files, Fortunatly I have a plotter sitting 4 feet away from me as I type at work. Drats now I let it out that I chat on here from work, sigh.
Looking forward to more progress pictures.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #30 on:** October 17, 2007, 10:00:19 PM »

Mark,

I have a local print guy that does CAD plans, but the real deal is the local UPS store. They have one of those giant 36" photocopier/printer jobs. It's attached to a computer that has programs to print .pdf, .dxf and .dwg. At $5 a sheet, it's a deal.

I have the control surfaces, wheel pants, cowl and control hatch primed. I have a cold and just ran out of steam yesterday so I haven't primed the main airframe yet. I'll probably do that tomorrow. I spent this evening wasting time playing a computer game. I'll get back on the Cobra tomorrow. I'll take a couple of pictures when it's all primed and post them. If I can go easy on the paint this time, I should knock a few ounces off of it to boot.

I have, as I said, the colors picked out, but not the scheme (except vaguely in my head). I need to spend some time designing the paint scheme and redesigning the the fonts and stuff for the name and number, etc. Or I may stick with the same deal as before. Folks seemed to like Hot Rod Chick.

Jim Oliver · « **Reply #31 on:** October 17, 2007, 10:38:56 PM »

Randy,

Thanks for the plans offer---I have ordered Pat's plan. I will hold your offer in reserve--just in case.

Cheers,
Jim

Randy Powell · « **Reply #32 on:** October 18, 2007, 09:28:30 AM »

Pat's a pretty reliable guy. You should have them soon.

As I say, only comment is, be sure you don't set the controls up too fast. I used the outer hole in the bellcrank initially. Bad idea. I cut in and moved it to the inner hole. Should be much better now.

Jim Oliver · « **Reply #33 on:** October 19, 2007, 07:02:15 PM »

Guys,
Guess who just found the "last" Cobra short kit at Brodak's?

Hope I'm not disappointed.

Cheers,
Jim

Bill Little · « **Reply #34 on:** October 19, 2007, 07:17:41 PM »

Quote from: Jim Oliver on October 19, 2007, 07:02:15 PM

Guys,
Guess who just found the "last" Cobra short kit at Brodak's?

Hope I'm not disappointed.

Cheers,
Jim

Hi Jim,

Funny statement, why would there be a reason to be *disappointed*? The Cobra is one of the great Classic planes. The short kit is from Walter's kits, which are/were outstanding.

The only way to be disappointed is to build it 10 ounces overweight, or crooked, or put a poor choice of engine in it!

Use a 4" BC and Tom Morris horns (or equivalent), especially an adjustable elevator horn, put a good stunt engine in it, and build it straight and fairly light. It will be awesome! Steve designed the Cobra to overcome the shortcomings of the Argus, which he finished about 4th with at the WCs. I am pretty sure he had a top 5 with the Cobra, too. But it is like 99% of all the I-Beamers, it benefits from lighter construction. And I would definitely suggest using enough power.

Good luck, it's an awesome airplane when done up right.

Jim Oliver · « **Reply #35 on:** October 19, 2007, 09:25:10 PM »

I wasn't sure where the short kit came from--was hoping it was Walter's.

Please define "enough power". What would you use?
Thanks,
Jim

PS: Looks like Randy's has a PA rear exhaust "something or other" (40?)

Randy Powell · « **Reply #36 on:** October 19, 2007, 09:54:07 PM »

Yea, power isn't an issue with mine. It's PA 40 Ultralight. Weighs about 8oz. The plane, before refinishing, was a bit heavy at 48oz. I got carried away with the paint. Hopefully this time around, I can knock 4oz or so off that and it should be a killer. I shot the primer on the main airframe tonight. The sanding party starts tomorrow. Oh Joy.

Jim Oliver · « **Reply #37 on:** October 23, 2007, 09:40:49 PM »

The Umland/Brodak short kit for the Cobra showed up today. Looks great, actually more "stuff" in the box than I expected.

Thanks to Walter for the heads-up.

Jim

Bill Little · « **Reply #38 on:** October 23, 2007, 11:40:49 PM »

Quote from: Jim Oliver on October 19, 2007, 09:25:10 PM

(snip)
Please define "enough power". What would you use?
Thanks,
Jim

PS: Looks like Randy's has a PA rear exhaust "something or other" (40?)

Aero Tiger 36, Magnum 36 XLS, St .46, or the PA 40UL if you can swing one. At the mid to upper 40 oz range It will take something like that. I would like to see it around 40-42 oz., max.

Jim Oliver · « **Reply #39 on:** October 24, 2007, 08:02:44 AM »

I'm thinking PA 40UL---depending on what A.G. Edwards does for me this year!!
The plans show a B40---big surprise. Probably not a bad choice, actually.
Jim

Randy Powell · « **Reply #40 on:** October 24, 2007, 12:29:57 PM »

Scott Reise has been flying a Cobra from an Umland kit the last couple of years using a B40. Seems to work well for him.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #41 on:** October 24, 2007, 01:06:06 PM »

Randy and others, FWIW, I think Scott wore that poor B .40 out, the front bushing was weeping so much fuel he couldnt put in enough to complete the pattern. I think he changed over to one of hes reworked LA 40s but not sure.. Point remains same, a PA 40 UL should definetly not be on the short end of the power curve!

Randy Powell · « **Reply #42 on:** October 24, 2007, 03:12:48 PM »

Well, all the pieces parts are sanded. Took a lot more effort than I had at first thought. I really should have gotten a couple more coats of clear on before I put on the primer. I went through in several areas and had to reshoot primer ... a couple of times. But they are now complete and I can start on the main airframe. I didn't get to work on it as much as I had planned last weekend.

I really need to pay attention to my own advice more. I foolishly put silkspan over the fillets on the plane and have had nothing but problems with the fillets lifting. Something I haven't had to deal with in a long time. I finally gave up and went back and cut the silkspan off all of the fillets, ran a thin layer (very thin) of SuperFil over the fillets, sanded them down and reprimed the area and not things seem to be working well again.

So here is one of Randy's Rules: Silkspan the plane first THEN put the fillets on. If you a refinishing a plane, don't cover the fillets with silkspan.

Wasted many hours trying to get them to stay down and in the end just had to rip it up and do it again anyway. But al least it's all in primer now and looks pretty good. A lot of sanding ahead.

Bill Little · « **Reply #43 on:** October 25, 2007, 05:26:30 PM »

Never, ever, in no way put silkspan over fillets, or in crevices. Did I say NEVER??

(the stuff is made to shrink you know.........)

Randy Powell · « **Reply #44 on:** October 26, 2007, 09:20:39 PM »

Gee Bill, thanks for the advice.

It's OK now (after numerous hours of fixes). I'm about 2/3 done with sanding the primer. Man I layed it on thick. Lot of dust on the floor.

Bill Little · « **Reply #45 on:** October 26, 2007, 10:02:16 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on October 26, 2007, 09:20:39 PM

Gee Bill, thanks for the advice.

It's OK now (after numerous hours of fixes). I'm about 2/3 done with sanding the primer. Man I layed it on thick. Lot of dust on the floor.

What are friends for?

??

What is the base color gonna be this time?? How about the way Steve did his? I know you like green...........

I need to know more abot your "candy toners". PM me, ok?

Randy Powell · « **Reply #46 on:** October 27, 2007, 09:16:52 PM »

Bill,

I'm still debating on color. I had a scheme planned but it was going to be all dark colors and I decided that the Tucson sun wouldn't be kind to it. So now I'm considering using an off white as a base color and some interesting trim colors I have with basically the same scheme I used before. The sort of classic Bill Werwage Juno scheme. We'll see. Maybe I'll get a wild hair and do something else. I've got about 3 and a half wing sides of sanding to decide.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #47 on:** October 27, 2007, 11:34:31 PM »

Randy,
It would really be a shame to let all that experience you have not with green candy and pearl go to waste, and remember you would only have to look at it for a week a year at most right?

Randy Powell · « **Reply #48 on:** October 27, 2007, 11:46:10 PM »

Gee, thanks Mark. I think that when I fix and repaint the Novi it's gonna be red.

Bill Little · « **Reply #49 on:** October 28, 2007, 01:21:36 AM »

Red is a good choice, Randy. I buy it by the gallon.................

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #50 on:** October 28, 2007, 09:59:14 AM »

But I liked the green Randy,it was so ,, so,, you

oh I mean different

Randy Powell · « **Reply #51 on:** October 28, 2007, 09:28:13 PM »

Ok, here it is so far. Man. sanding filler is a pain.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #52 on:** October 29, 2007, 12:19:23 AM »

Randy, man, if my 109 only comes up to half of what you turn out quality wise, I think I will be thrilled. Looks good, now go put some liniment on the elbow, lotion the fingertips, and get some rest, for tomorrow more sanding follows.
first half of the wing for the 109 is in the jig, ribs set, spars in.LE and TE on. I want to stay up all night and work on it, but the boss may have a problem with me beign all bleary eyed tomorrow at work if I do that.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #53 on:** October 29, 2007, 08:57:46 AM »

Mark,

Yea, my arm is a bit tired. You can see the primer spots on the fuse. I think next time I will wet the silkspan and just dope the edges and let it dry before hitting the main area with dope. Or possibly just go with Polyspan.

I can say one thing, I will never use other than SGM again. Absolutely no problems with sanding through on the ribs. Because this is a refinish and the framework wasn't as smooth and prepped as I normally do, I shot quite a lot of primer on this to insure that I got all the low spots with enough primer to fill them. But it makes sanding a real chore. I've been initially sanding it with 220 open coat aluminum oxide paper, then going to 320 of the same kind, then a trick 600 I picked up at the auto body shop. It's a zinc sterate paper that really takes out the scratches.

Should be ready for color in the next few days.

Don't stay up all night working on a plane. Leave off. It will be there when you come back and you'll be happier the next afternoon. Trust me.

Bill Little · « **Reply #54 on:** October 29, 2007, 12:54:47 PM »

We tried Polyspan on a fuselage, Randy, and will never try it again. For everything except the nose, I use OO or Jap Tissue.

I was going to ask you if you did the fuselage carving on that one with a machete............

Randy Powell · « **Reply #55 on:** October 29, 2007, 02:26:46 PM »

Bill,

No, I had hoped to get it done before my friend leaves for Tucson, but that isn't happening. I put the silkspan on the fuse wet and then doped right over it. Should have tacked the edges down and waited for it to dry or hit it with a heat gun or something. When you do that (dope right over wet silkspan), you float some of the silkspan and it give a slightly uneven surface when it dries. I probably should have put a couple of extra coats of dope on the fuse to fill the low spots. Those low spots aren't much, but enough to leave quite a lot of filler. Granted, it probably doesn't amount to much more than a gram or two, but it's just irritating as heck. What I get for trying to get it done by a certain date. Especially when I've now found another ride for the plane that isn't leaving until February. Sigh...

Not a big deal, I suppose. I weighed the whole thing before and after the primer was shot. I'll check it again after I get done sanding. I don't expect to pick up even a 1/2 ounce in primer when it's all said and done. If I do, it will be back to sanding.

Shultzie · « **Reply #56 on:** October 30, 2007, 12:10:37 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on October 27, 2007, 09:16:52 PM

Bill,

I'm still debating on color. I had a scheme planned but it was going to be all dark colors and I decided that the Tucson sun wouldn't be kind to it. So now I'm considering using an off white as a base color and some interesting trim colors I have with basically the same scheme I used before. The sort of classic Bill Werwage Juno scheme. We'll see. Maybe I'll get a wild hair and do something else. I've got about 3 and a half wing sides of sanding to decide.

Not only for Tucson..but choice of paint color so much depends on keeping the model a color that WON'T BLEND WITH THE BACKGROUND behind your flight window.
Dark Greens, and especially Dark Reds and maroons are really cameeeeeekkkkk0oh-SH-T!!! ~^color choices as you know can really trick de-ol' eyeballs...when that model is in motion and flying those fast 3-5 speed laps...n'allthatjizzjazz.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #57 on:** October 30, 2007, 03:42:26 PM »

Don,

Yea, that was the one drawback to the Novi I built last year. I'm telling you, light pearl green is not the color to have around here with all the "treed" backgrounds. Poof!, it's gone!

Recently, I took all the cans of custom mixed paints I have (about 40 pint cans and 5 or 6 quarts) and moved the paint over to canning jars. Besides now not having to worry about the darned cans rusting (don't you just love living in a high humidity environment?), I can see the color through the side. An upside to this is being able to put jars side by side to see how the colors will look together. Makes picking out trim colors a lot easier.

So I now have my paint scheme AND colors picked out.

Main color will be Alabaster Pearl White, trim will be Ford Redfire Pearl, A custom mix Orangy-Yellow pearl, GMC French Blue Pearlcoat(as sort of Burple color), BMW Custom Bronze Pearlcoat and a bit of Black Pearl. Should be interesting anyway. Certainly the jars standing next to each other look very good. Oh, and Hawai'ian shirt LOUD!

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #58 on:** October 30, 2007, 04:35:56 PM »

Now your talking Randy, we like loud,, That will help Leo keep from walking on it too,,,

sounds like it is going to be an interesting color combination for sure. So get it painted already. Dont be worrying about the clear , just bring it over we can clear it in the shop,, you konw the big booth! No temp issues there. lol

Shultzie · « **Reply #59 on:** October 30, 2007, 06:14:05 PM »

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on October 30, 2007, 04:35:56 PM

Now your talking Randy, we like loud,, That will help Leo keep from walking on it too,,,
sounds like it is going to be an interesting color combination for sure. So get it painted already. Dont be worrying about the clear , just bring it over we can clear it in the shop,, you konw the big booth! No temp issues there. lol

WOW! RANDY AND MARK!

I still have an old can of Clear Coat Imeronie'

and harder sitting out in the garage.....
If you are brave or foolish enough to spray it?

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #60 on:** October 30, 2007, 08:34:02 PM »

hey Shultzie, you can keep your Imronie That stuff is to brittle for me, I will take my Urethane super PPG 2021 thanks,, its the GOOD stuff, ,then an hour at 140 in the booth and its ready to take home!

Randy Powell · « **Reply #61 on:** October 31, 2007, 12:22:45 PM »

First plane I ever painted with car paints had an Imron topcoat. The stuff almost put me in the hospital. Nasty stuff. Now I use a much better mask, long sleeves, a hat and goggles and shoot it outside, but not Imron. The stuff is way too heavy. I think I added something like 5oz in clear coat with one coat of Imron. I use some 2 to 1 catalyzed polyurethane now and it works well.

Interestingly, that plane had a base color of medium charcoal metallic (first plane painted with metallics) and 6 trim colors; mostly reds and oranges with a really cool Camero dark blue metallic. That was a pretty plane. Shame it weighed a ton.

Bill Little · « **Reply #62 on:** November 01, 2007, 10:16:59 AM »

Heck,

My color schemes are not hard to pick at all! All my planes are red w/yellow and white trim, outlined in black! LOL!!

Of course I do paint a LOT of my Classic planes in their original paint scheme.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #63 on:** November 02, 2007, 10:42:40 AM »

Bill,

Well, I often try to keep the spirit of the original paint scheme. That's what I did with the Green Weenie. But sometimes you just have to do something different.

Still fighting with fillets. What a pita. I hope to be able to paint the base color this weekend.

Shultzie · « **Reply #64 on:** November 02, 2007, 06:45:13 PM »

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on October 30, 2007, 08:34:02 PM

hey Shultzie, you can keep your Imronie That stuff is to brittle for me, I will take my Urethane super PPG 2021 thanks,, its the GOOD stuff, ,then an hour at 140 in the booth and its ready to take home!

Good point.......plus not worth the risk.....besides some of those beautiful Pylon RC racers had some noticable lifting & delamination especially in the high flex-stress areas etc.... but perhaps that might have been not allowing enough for the undersurfaces to "gas off!" BOTTOM LINE! NOTHING IS WORTH THE RISK TO YOUR HEALTH!
Thinking back........most of those advocates that were screaming the loudest that "they knew how to take precautions" were sooner or later having health issues that screamed to me....they weren't as careful as they THOUGHT THEY WERE...n'allthatjazz.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #65 on:** November 04, 2007, 10:21:02 PM »

Well, the filler is all sanded. I would have shot some heavily thinned clear on it today, but the compressor seems to have gone tits up. I'll have to take it apart tomorrow to see what's up. It's leaking. Not a good thing. And I had a problem with one of my spray guns. Man, when it rains ...

Oh well, I'll get it sorted out.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #66 on:** November 21, 2007, 08:54:11 PM »

Ok, I'm back in business again. All new from compressor to spary gun. Shot the clear on the primer tonight. Man, it's nice to use good equipment. I love trouble free.