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Classic Designs => Classic Planes => Topic started by: Steve Helmick on November 28, 2010, 04:47:29 PM
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Chizzler, that is. First flight tests were conducted today, November 28, 2k10. Power is a RO-Jett .40 BSE RE, with header "muffler". He sez the plane weighs 44 oz ready to fly (dry). It feels very light, a new concept. Construction started out with a set of RSM laser cut wing ribs, but otherwise is scratch built from Robin Sizemore plans. Covering is PolySpan, with clear dope and House of Color candy dye. Topcoated with Omni 2-part.
Today's flights got the wings level, CG is fine, it needs a bit less tipweight, a pushrod adjustment, wheels bushed, and the usual prop R&D. He's already babbling that it flies better than the JD Falcon, which is hard to fathom. Doesn't sound like it will make an appearance at VSC, but NATS seems likely. And Golden State, I hope. DV^^ Steve
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A great design, well built, light with lotza power - tough combination! I really like the transluscent base color too.
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Mike Haverly does nice work. Very creative as a builder and finisher. He comes up with some great paint schemes. Looks very colorful. Can't wait to see it in person.
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Very nice. y1
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That plane is fabulous looking, and knowing Mike, I bet it fly's well also.
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Yes, Mike does great work. His paint schemes always have an original touch.
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Looks like another winner from Mike. Awesome paint scheme! I wish he would bring it to VSC so I could oogle it. :o
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That is one nice plane. I have a kit to build in the shop. I hope it come out 1/2 as nice as this plane. Great colors.
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Looks like Mike has another winner there! Nicely done.
Big Bear
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Question, The Chizzler has a massive top and bottom block, how do you guys handle that. Also, if the Chizzler is so Nobler based, why does it invariably seem to fly so much better.
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Well it's time I spoke up. Thanks for all the comments. After the first flying session I brought it home and fixed the wheels, built a new fuel tank, changed the flap-elev ratio, tweaked a new prop, and steamed a warp out of the inboard wing. Looks like I'm starting over as far as trim goes.
There are no blocks to carve on this model, it is all moulded. I don't know how the kit does it, this one is scratch built except that I ordered the rib set from Eric rule at RSM. There is a lot of structure in the back end of this thing, it would be easy to build heavy.
edited for sp. mh
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Another masterpiece Mike, really like the use of colors and paint design. 8)
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Question, The Chizzler has a massive top and bottom block, how do you guys handle that. Also, if the Chizzler is so Nobler based, why does it invariably seem to fly so much better.
It doesn't fly any better in my opinion. They both fly great. It is just a different outline of the fuselage. I think Windy has a video on carving and hollowing blocks. Maybe Bob Hunt also. I beeive the one video that Dave Trible had showed the the outside of block is carved as close as you feel you need to. Then pop it off the fuselage and start gouging out the interior. I have used Dremel Tool with burr wheels. E-Xacto gouges and a form of gouging blade of various sizes. You just keep removing material until you can just barely see light thru the wood from the interior. Some times I have gone too much and had to build up an area where I went thru to the surface.
I think both sources have videos on molding fuselage peices. Good luck. H^^
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(snip) You just keep removing material until you can just barely see light thru the wood from the interior. Some times I have gone too much and had to build up an area where I went thru to the surface.
I think both sources have videos on molding fuselage peices. Good luck. H^^
Hi Doc,
if you can't see BRIGHT light through the wood, you ain't gone far enough. And, you really have to sand the insides about as much as the outsides of a block if you really want it "light".
;D
I just carved and hollowed a top block for a .61 piped bubble canopy plane. Over 39" long and about 2 1/4" wide at the canopy. It came in under 1 oz. and the "nose" of it isn't hollowed in the tank compartment area. I guess others could get it even lighter, but it was all the wood I had that size. And I still might get it thinner. I never want them more than 3/32" thick.
Big Bear
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I have a Nobler I built from a Brodak kit a few years ago. I just took some measurements and don't see many similarities between it and the Chizler. I have heard the story that Dick Mathis put a different tail on a Nobler and called it good--I don't see it! Moments are shorter on the nobler and the wing area is smaller. Airfoil is completely different; Nobler is thinner. Construction of each is completely different, "C" tube on the Chizler and "D" tube on the Nobler. Again, there are *no* blocks to carve on the Chizler. I think the Chizler flies better too.
Mike
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Hi Mike,
The Brodak is the "Original" '52 Nobler, whereas the '57 Green Box Top Flite kit was the only available kit (that I ever knew of) for the "Nobler" before John put his out. We are all aware of the difference between the GB kit, Brodak kit and MAN plans for George's "Nobler".
I re read the Chizler article a short time ago (Aaron was thinking of building one) and Dick said you could use a Nobler wing. This was referring to the GB Nobler. Wing construction is different between the kit Noblers and the Chizler, that's for sure. But the article and plans from Flying Models had very large blocks to carve. ;D
Big Bear
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Yes Bill,
I was aware of the differences between the GB Nobler and the "Original" but I haven't seen the original article for the Chizler. The plans I worked from were from RSM drawn by Robin Sizemore. I assume the plan form was accurate and the model is true to the "fidelity" part of the rule. There are no blocks to carve, like the Nobler.
Mike
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Yes Bill,
I was aware of the differences between the GB Nobler and the "Original" but I haven't seen the original article for the Chizler. The plans I worked from were from RSM drawn by Robin Sizemore. I assume the plan form was accurate and the model is true to the "fidelity" part of the rule. There are no blocks to carve, like the Nobler.
Mike
Hi Mike,
I hope you know I wasn't trying to "talk down" to you with all that, it just seemed a few here were kinda confused.
As you know, on the GB Nobler, the turtle deck is sheeted, as well as the bottom.. I'll check the article/plans again and see if there was any sheeting of the upper and lower surfaces. I just remember from that article that I didn't have any blocks thick enough! LOL!!
I am not sure if Dick had one, two or three Chizlers. ;D He went to three NATS with "a" Chizler, but each one had a different paint scheme, at least. I would suspect that the RSM kit is well with in the "Fidelity boundaries", Eric always has good stuff! y1
Kinda off topic, but it seems that plenty of people have built very good Noblers, but built them on the "light" side. I think the 1-1 flap/elevator ratio must kill some of the model's flight characteristics when they are very light. Windy complained about his at 37 oz. just not flying well. Maybe those full span flaps give too much "nose pitching" in the opposite direction on deployment for the smallish tail to overcome quickly. ???
Your Chizler really really looks great, and I am sure it will be an awesome plane for you!
Bill
Bill
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It doesn't fly any better in my opinion. They both fly great. It is just a different outline of the fuselage. I think Windy has a video on carving and hollowing blocks. Maybe Bob Hunt also.
I think both sources have videos on molding fuselage peices. Good luck. H^^
First off thanks for the response. But, I know how to carve blocks,(you made me feel young LOL) I was just wondering how YOU guys handle it. Mike went the molded route on this one,(I know how to do that too;yes water is better than ammonia) and it looks really fantastic.
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Hot water works even better. For me anyway.
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Yeah Randy, I said steam, but really I use a towel and boiling water. I know it is hot when I smell the wax cooking! y1
Mike