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Classic Designs => Classic Planes => Topic started by: jjorgensen on May 06, 2010, 06:27:47 PM
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Sort of a rebuild. I was able to save the wingtips, tail section, and flaps. The rest is new. I redid the canopy shape, and like it better now. Really beefed the center section, and made it a tri gear instead of tail dragger.
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I remember this model. Did you build it from Flying Models plans. Always thought that it was one great looking model. By the way yours is really a 'looker' y1
Dennis
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Lookin' good Jim, maybe I'll get to see it in person this time! :## ;D
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Yes, this was from Flying Model plans. A Sheeks/Vornholt design. The plans were really basic which probably led to the first version's demise!
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Hi Jim,
I am really glad you got it back together! I was talking with Jim the other night about your plane and the ME 262 model, overall. He said he liked his second one better which had the single seat bubble canopy and the lead outs in the wing, instead of coming out of the wing tip and leading edge like the model in the article's pictures showed.
Those FM plans left a lot to the imagination! LL~ (and I'm sure it wasn't Jim's fault)
Big Bear
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Would have been a nice model to have displayed at Discover Aviation Days this past weekend Jim, where were ya! ???
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Saturday looked like a blowout, and unfortunately, had to spend Sunday rebuilding window seats. I would have rather been at Aviation Days!
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Two questions:
1) Did you revise the plans with your corrections? Are they available?
2) Does it actually fly correctly with that much sweep (with the control lines not coming out the leading edge, but out the wing-tip)? I've always understood that you normally only sweep the lines about 3 degrees back from the center of balance.
Thanks,
Scott
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I didn't know of any plans available with the corrections. The major correction I made was to join the spar top and bottom with 1/8 inch ply, extending about 2 inches beyond the fusalage sides, and to run ply doublers back to beyond the bellcrank location which is a couple inches behind the spar. The plane flies extremely well with the leadouts coming out the wingtip. It pulled like a truck initially, but I moved the leadouts as far forward as I could. It still flies somewhat nose out (I can see both main wheels from the center of the circle) but it is not extreme, and it has very good line tension everywhere. I am still experimenting with engines and props. I changed from a FP 40 to a LA 40 (LA seems to hold a more steady run) and am now running a 10-5 zinger prop. Lap speeds have varied from 4.6 to 5.6 and it seems to like 4.6 better. I am now aiming for around 5 sec lap times. While it doesn't have a sharp corner, like a modern design, it turns amazingly well for the small flaps and elevators that it has. No tendency to hunt. It has needed no adjustment for wings level upright or inverted. Overall, I am quite happy with it.
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Look's great Jim,let me know how it turns out.
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Jim, if you can't move the lead outs father forward , try moving the C/G back ( modeling clay) a little at a time, playing with the C/G that has worked out pretty well for me a couple of times.
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I have tried that, and by replacing the stock muffler with a homemade muffler, I was able to take 2 oz off the nose. It did make a noticable difference. I will continue to try more tailweight to see if it improves any more.
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Hi Jim,
Sounds like you are getting things under control with the ME 262. I have had those plans since it first came out in Flying Models, and after getting to know Jim V., I want to build one more and more!
Good Luck!
Bill
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Hi Jim. I'm really glad you rebuilt this one. It looks great! The new canopy is a wonderful addition along with the trike gear. Did you change the design of the wing tips? I think a lot of people would be interested in the plans with the changes. What canopy did you use and did you have to change the top rear of the fuselage to get it to fit right? Thanks, Mike #^
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Hi Mike:
I did change the wingtips by making the end rib perpendicular to the spar, rather than angled as the plan showed, but retained the same tip outline. That gave me more room to install line slider. The canopy was formed from my own carved mold using a 2 litre coke bottle and heat gun. I ran the 1 inch top block back to approximately to the leading edge of the flaps where they join the fuselage, and then tapered it down to 1/2 inch where it intersected the vertical fin.
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Hi Jim, Did you go with the foam engine nacelles again?
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Yup. Two of the few things I was able to save from the first crash. The engine pods, flaps, wing-tips and tail section. Everything else new.
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Hi Jim, I'm wondering what does the plane weight and what is the inner diameter of the foam jet engine inlets? Do you know roughly what the wing area is? Thanks, Mike H^^
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Hey Mike:
You gave me an excuse to go buy that scale I've been putting off for awhile. The ME-262 weighs in at 44 oz. unfueled. The inside diamater of the jet pods is 1 1/2 inches. I'm not exactly sure how to measure the square inches with the sweep, but I estimate it to be in the neighborhood of 480 to 500 square inches. It is 60 inches in width, with the cord at the center of the fus about 10 inches and at the tip 6 inches.
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Hi Jim, Thanks for the information Mike
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Always liked this jet. So I designed and built my own. Ribs are made from foam supermarket meat trays. Tough, strong and stands up to shock very well when I tested this material before construction.
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Full flaps and hardwood stringer down the spine of the fuselage. Bellcrank and inner wing spars reinforced for landing forces / provide stiffness and strength. Playoff weight Vs strength a big theme in this model.
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Always liked this jet. So I designed and built my own.
Great looking model John. I'm curious though, why all the panel line work before final covering and finish?
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Hi wwwwarbird. At this stage I also paint in the cockpit detail, sorty black and dark green- attach markings and give whole plane 3 coats clear automotive acrylic - reasonably fuel proof unless you soak raw fuel on it. Then plastic shrink wrap on wings with markings - which are also clear coated before gluing to wing covering. I'll attach a finished photo and another during construction.
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Hi wwwwarbird. At this stage I also paint in the cockpit detail, sorty black and dark green- attach markings and give whole plane 3 coats clear automotive acrylic - reasonably fuel proof unless you soak raw fuel on it. Then plastic shrink wrap on wings with markings - which are also clear coated before gluing to wing covering.
Thanks for the reply John, a pretty unorthodox routine but if it works so be it.
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Thanks wwwarbird. Yes it does work well, and yes we are a little unorthodox down here in the South Pacific Kiwiland. By the way I like your P38, a nice ship. Regards John.