stunthanger.com
Classic Designs => Classic Planes => Topic started by: Matt Colan on August 03, 2009, 03:13:54 PM
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As promised, here are some pics of my Cobra. I plan to power this with an LA 40.
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Second batch of Cobra's bones...
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Matt,
Great lookin' progress you're makin' there but should'nt the wing be built thru the fuse at this point? H^^
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Hi Matt,
I have built an I-Beam wing like you are doing for a quick kit customer once. The standard way, as you know, is to use the fuselage and wing tip plates for the *jig* when building. The speed of building an I-Beam is that when the wing is done, the fuselage is too, basically, and everything is in alignment..
Mongo
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Hi guys, since we are tight on space, we are building the wing outside the body. The fuselage, I'm going to "mold" the turtle deck and the front block, because after using blocks for the Ares, I learned I AM NOT a fan of blocks. I don't like having this big block adn wasting a lot of that wood hollowing the block. Also it's going to save weight.
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To bad I didn't take pictures of the build of the Sheeks Staggerwing. I was really having to be careful as my board is 12 inch X 4 foot. Try building two I-Beams. That it the Staggerwing. As stated the fuse is part of the jigging as well as the wing tip jig. The Spitfire was bujilt on the same board and is an I-Beamer by Sheeks. The Falcon 35 design by Duke Fox is a compromise on I=beam that uses conventional ribs. The fuse is built and then slots cut for the leading edge, trailing edge & spar. Even with the plywood on the inside of the fuselage it seemed weak to me.
But, back to the Cobra, it is looking great. Keep us posted. DOC Holliday
PS:Looking at the pictures I wish I had as much room as you show in your pics. jeh
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I'd love more space, since we have a huge table where my little board is, and now grandpa took that over because he is retrofitting a PA 51 into his Mustang. That Mustang is around a 56 to 57 inch span and I say it is going to be a killer plane when it is trimmed out.
Back to the Cobra, I am always weary about the landing gear on my Ares, because it is bolted right onto the spar. For the Cobra, I'm making removable landing gear, based on what Walter Umland sent me. Even though the Ares glides and glides and glides, I'm nervous if I hit the ground hard, adn worrying that I could stress the spar, but every landing I have done has been greased in.
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Dems nice bones! I like the idea of removable LG too. It sure makes it easier to handle carving wheelpants, covering, and stuff like that.
Reminds me, Thursday is Rib-Fest in nearby Kalamazooooooooo ;D
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Dems nice bones! I like the idea of removable LG too. It sure makes it easier to handle carving wheelpants, covering, and stuff like that.
Reminds me, Thursday is Rib-Fest in nearby Kalamazooooooooo ;D
Ohhhhhhhhhhhh ribs, I love ribs!!!!!!!!!!! ;D
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Matt On my stuka I made a1/16 ply half rib with 1/8 end grain balsa core to hold the gear legs and a1/8 ply plates that sandwiches the gear with 4 40 bolts. The piece of balsa on top of the plate is sanded to match the wing and painted. This makes an easy to remove gear that doesnot add a ton of weight. The idea was from Windy that's how he did the gear on his bombers. Your Cobra looks great so far. George
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Hi Matt. It appears you have your "ducks all in a row" so to speak. Pray for no warps in that beautiful wing. y1
Right now, we have the wing pinned down to the table and is warp free right now. I think we are going to put the wing on sheet rock, pin it down and set it aside and start work on my Oriental Plus, and get that in one piece. I think we are going to do that, but not sure yet.
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I've set the Cobra aside to work on my Oriental Plus so it will be awhile to hear any updates on this plane.
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Just something of note. I have had the cobra in the burner room since the day I set it aside, and have checked on the wing occasionally, and the wing is still straight. I probably won't get back working on this until this winter when I'm painting or buffing or finished my oriental plus.