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Classic Designs => Classic Planes => Topic started by: GonzoBonzo on September 16, 2012, 03:14:12 PM
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Does the laser cut Brodak kit have the 5/16 jig holes in the ribs?
TIA
Gonzo
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I don't know if the "new" laser cut ribs have the jig holes, but the old die ribs cut did not.
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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Call them.....it's not secret stuff.....
Have fun!
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No, it is set-up to be built on a flat building board, similar to the Vector and other Brodak kits. Instructions are specific and it is not difficult. I used a 48" balsa building board similar to what Tower sells.
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Thanks guys,
The Vector DOES have the jig holes in the wing BTW. Thought they might include it on the laser version of the Olympic also.
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Based on the Vector info and and looking at the framed Olympic photo, I'd now say that there is a good chance that the ribs in the lazar cut kit do have jig holes. My bad. b1 However the instruction book did show the wing being built on a flat surface. Just to be certain, I'd go with Peabody's advice, or maybe someone will check out a fresh kit and give a definitive answer. 8)
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Got an email from Brodaks, the Olympic does have the jig holes. Butcher you should try it next plane. Get 2 lengths of 5/16" aluminum tubing, and cut some blocks. Makes short work on swept, tapered wings.
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Actually I am trying it on my current project, a Vector 40. In this one the instructions specify the use of the Brodak wing jig. That is what I am using and so far am impressed (nice kit, good wood, another home-run for Brodak IMHO). 8)
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Actually I am trying it on my current project, a Vector 40. In this one the instructions specify the use of the Brodak wing jig. That is what I am using and so far am impressed (nice kit, good wood, another home-run for Brodak IMHO). 8)
HI Pete,
The Vector 40 is just a good flying model airplane! ;D Kit, ARF,ARC, all seem to fly well. And it is fully "trimmable" and flies well with a variety of engines. Aaron bought an ARF to have a practice plane he could carry in his car for after work flights. It is the only flying ARF that we have had, and it does real good. TT .36 from Randy for power. Good package!
Bill
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Just putting the finishing touches on my Vector. E-powered. Are you building one panel at a time? I think the Brodak rods that come with the jig are only 36".
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The trick here is to build each wing separately...free flight style. Front and rear sheeting applied in the jig. Sand LE sheeting, LE,TE, and spars so all even. Then thread both wings back onto the jig. It won't matter that the outer portion of the wings are unsupported as the structure will be stiff by then. The rods through the center section will keep everything lined up. Brodak (Alan B.?) makes it even easier by having the center (W-0) rib made out of 1/4" balsa. This allows a little "wiggle room" to adjust the TE if necessary to insure the it is straight. It also supports the TE, LE, and spars rather than just joining them together with a plain butt joint. Brilliant! 8)
And...oops, my bad again. Current project is a Legacy 40, not a Vector 40. Mine crashed, plan to build another. 8)
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"And...oops, my bad again. Current project is a Legacy 40, not a Vector 40. Mine crashed, plan to build another."
That makes sense. My instructions showed the leveling bar method. Had to come up with my own way of using my jig.
"The rods through the center section will keep everything lined up. Brodak (Alan B.?) makes it even easier by having the center (W-0) rib made out of 1/4" balsa."
That's a good idea. I never had much luck in my RC days trying to mate wing panels that weren't flat bottomed. You might want to think about using 2 center ribs of 1/8". That way you could build each rib into the panel. Much easier for the LE, TE sheeting, and to glue together.
Nice Vector BTW. I like the open cockpit.
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Neato! I built an Olympic Mk VI from plans, and finished it with Ultracoat and some purple paint. I used the Brodak canopy and decals, rather than make my own. I opted for the original's trim scheme, as I thought it was nice looking. The first flights were difficult, as the CG shown on the plans turned out to be about 2-1/2 inches too far forward. It would not rotate, and would nose-over when released. Lots of lead weight later, it flys pretty good. I have an O.S. .40 FP on the nose. (http://)