Others

Hi Charles, thanks for all the info the other day.

I got muddled up on priming. Just a white krylon primer, and I think you said barely apply any to the open bays so they don't get too stiff. How long do you go between color coats? I have an ugly Akromaster I did as an experiment in all clear with just some color splashes on the top. I figure I'll paint the bottom of it with rattle cans to get a feel for the method. I think I used 5mm silk from Dharma on it before  I did my black tiger in silk. It was my test subject. Base is all sig litecote.

Thanks

David

David,

I've never used white Krylon primer so I cannot respond to it. I only use SIG clear dope. All Krylon colors, no gloss!

Scratch up your clear dope when you feel you have enough, 320 or 400. Board sanding is better. Yes there are places where you cannot. Before covering is applied and after.

I have used and still use the gray NAPA 540 auto "high build" primer. I have a bunch. High build is important because you apply a good deal more than what's needed. Coat after coat.

A good examination of the model's surface can tell you where you may need a greater amount before you start applying it. You can always apply more clear dope, even in areas if needed.

You board sand a good percentage of this high build primer away. As Robert says, "Most of it ends up on the floor." I sand with a vacuum running. If the clear coat starts to show you're done with that spot.

You don't need a great deal of pressure when you board sand primer. Move around as you board sand as to not stay in any particular area, then repeat. You can scratch the open bay areas with 400 with little pressure. Stay off the ribs, I mild sand the rib tops or cap strips with a light pass of 400 but 600 is OK.

As far as the Krylon primer, if it's white, you could apply a coat after you board sand the gray. I'll pick up a can for the TEXACO 13 I'm working on and the GBR-3.

Ending with a white primer is a good thing. That coat will also have to be board sanded or carefully hand sanded and cleaned.

PLUS, When the gray primer is all said and done, you must clean the surface thoroughly.

Now you can look for imperfections. I use a 3M auto putty. Gray last time. Board that, clean again and apply the Krylon white primer before color.

Many perfectionists use an auto putty that's a two part mix so they absolutely get no shrinkage.

I don't and still never had any issues along those lines by not using a two part mix.

Fred in Brazil does this. Fred is a master builder. Fred also uses a two part primer.

I do a masking tape test on my primer. I apply masking tape and remove it. I'll do this in many areas to see if anything comes off with the tape.

All my models that are on ebay have passed the masking tape test.

I sand all colors and sometimes make a pass or two with my heat gun at a distance only to add to the drying. You don't want to use heat to remove colored tape. Especially the blue plastic 3M tape, which you'll probably be using eventually.

There's a paint and finishing Build someplace on the Flite Streak Skyfall. Photos and info.

Same with the Argo 2, the MIg-3 and the Stuka Tank Buster.

Good luck,

Charles