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Speed,Combat,Scale,Racing => Carrier => Topic started by: Jim Oliver on October 20, 2010, 03:53:44 PM
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If you were gonna build a Class II model, what would be your engine of choice, and why?
Thanks,
Jim
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I like the webra .61 rear intake. By rotating the intake 90 degrees you can reverse the rotation. You can still find them on ebay.
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I should have added, for Nostalgia Class II----no line sliders. Don't know if that would make a difference, or not.
I have some RC .61s left from the dark side; a couple of side exhaust and 2 or 3 rear exhaust types. One of the rear exhaust engines in a high timed OPS. Has anybody figured out how to use a rear exhaust engine for Carrier?
Any idea how a Rossi .61 or .65 side exhaust would work? Probably too heavy? I have a Rossi .45 side exhaust RC that weighs 15 oz. w/out muffler, so I'm sure the 61/65 would be heavier......maybe too heavy to use.
Comments?
Jim
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Weight wise the Rossi's and the OPS's for that matter are heavy...I have several of each from
my pattern days. The webra's are better some on the weight but I always liked the webra
because they are so reliable every time out. The Webra's won't quite get to the RPM's as the
other two...I also think that the OS MAX engines of that size are probably the easiest to use...good
idle and about the same weight as the Webra. All are to be found in front and rear intake and
exhaust styles...I have several RE headers that would work for carrier if for nothing else to dump
the blast off to the side and off the plane. With no back pressure they will all be finicky on the
idle. But they will work. I also have a couple of the Supertiger Blue head .60's...they are great
motors too.
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David,
I was sorta thinking about a "header muffler" thingy for the R.E. engines-----would that work??? Would provide some back pressure, or maybe one of the Scotts(Reise or Dinger) could make a muffler that would work.
Maybe one of the more experienced Carrier flyers will add something to the discussion.......
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If you are flying nostalgia there is a bonus for a non schurle ported engine. Also you can use anything larger than a .40 up to a .65. If you put a muffler on fuel will be restricted to 10% nitro. In my view the engine is less important than the flying nos planes are harder land. Get a reliable engine and practice. You will win a lot if you can fly well
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A Super Tigre G60 or G65 RV ABC or a period correct Rossi would get the job done. Super Tigres show up on eBay periodically and are not too pricey. Any of these would qualify for the engine bonus.
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I do have a NIB Webra Blackhead .60 or .61 (10 cc. whatever that is???). Baffle piston with lots of torque, as I recall.....it might work with a tongue muffler......??
What say you?
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The Webra will put you in the show and give you a taste of what a .60 / .65 powered Carrier plane was like in the Classic Era. It won't be absolutely as fast as one of the racing engines but you will know you are hanging onto something. Go for it.
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Do you have a plane picked out yet?
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"Do you have a plane picked out yet?"
Not yet-----I was hoping Mike Griffin would come through with something I couldn't resist.......
I can build from plans, if I have to. Any of you guys have a favorite design that would work for Class II?
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My experience is with the Sterling Guardian. There is also the slightly smaller Bill Johnson Guardian. AMA has plans for it. Guardians were ubiquitous in the day and many tired of seeing them but they do fly well.
My current favorite is the Douglas Skypirate by Bernard Mallon. With a decent engine it will top out well over 100 mph and still do a respectable slow speed. It's a bit involved to build. AMA has plans.
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My favorite is the Bill Boss Guardian. It's a little bit larger than the Sterling kit, easier to build and (IMHO) a better engineered plane. I think I got the plans from Wayne Buran. THAT'S the one I would like to see kitted...or short kitted...or ribs and fuselage formers at least. 8)
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I have the Magazine article scanned.
Tom Wilk
Tom Wilk CDs
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I like the Nakajima C6n1 Myrt published in MA back in the 70's. It was designed for class II. I moved the bellcrank and leadout. I really like how it flies and if I built another I would probably use the webra.
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I've built a number of Class 2 models with rear exhaust 60/65. All were OPS. You have to watch the exhaust timing because OPS had both piped and normal timing. Ducting the rear exhaust can be a pain. If I were to build a Class 2 model, especially looking at Nostalgia, I'd go with a side exhaust engine. That configuration gets the exhaust out of the cowling the easiest.
Dave
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The myrt is fairly easy to set up for a RE. see the attached picture
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If someone has the Boss Guardian Plan I will get the process going to convert it to CAD and we will get
some rib and former sets at least started. I will be glad to reimberse for plan and shipping costs.
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David,
I should have a set in hand in a few days.......
Contact me by E mail and we can connect the dots.
Jim
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I like the Nakajima C6n1 Myrt published in MA back in the 70's. It was designed for class II. I moved the bellcrank and leadout. I really like how it flies and if I built another I would probably use the webra.
John, where did you move the B/C and leadout to?
Wayne
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Wayne,
The attached pictures should help. I put a bigger than needed tank in the plane (5.5oz) because I also fly it in AMA Class II. The bellcrank is near the trailing edge, I extended the engine bearers back all the way. The leadouts go across the top of the wing to a straight slider on the tip. forward position is near the wing leading edge. I can get an exact measurement if you like.
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Wayne,
The attached pictures should help. I put a bigger than needed tank in the plane (5.5oz) because I also fly it in AMA Class II. The bellcrank is near the trailing edge, I extended the engine bearers back all the way. The leadouts go across the top of the wing to a straight slider on the tip. forward position is near the wing leading edge. I can get an exact measurement if you like.
I would like that.
Thanks
Wayne
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Wayne
Measured from the front of the cowl to the bc center is 9.5 inches
The leadouts are 1 inch back from the le at the tip
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Thanks Lohn.
Wayne