Bob, I can't help but feel this question is directed at me, so here goes. I believe that Dale recently gave you an airplane with a carbon tube slider, so you should have something to look at. Since I built the airplane originally, I may be able to fill in the blanks. Check out the crappy sketches. The tube is slotted using an extruded aluminum channel as a guide. The slider itself is based on a 1/32 brass plate soldered into a slotted brass tube. The plywood cheeks protect the lines from dragging across the edge of the thin brass. The release pin hole is drilled on assembly to assure proper alignment. I haven't tried a magnetic slider lock, but I think it would work. It would be clean and totally passive with no moving parts other than the slider itself.

Your slider will be sticking out the front rather than the back, so the actual installation details will be up to you to figure out. On the MO-1, the carbon tube is glued into a 1/2" basswood block which is captured between the spars.
Due to the wing sweep, you may be able to keep the release cable mechanism totally inside the wing. If the high speed position is 1" ahead of the leading edge, you could build the slider with a 1" long "tail" so the release cable would be inside the wing. As long as the low speed position is more than 1" ahead of the TE, the tail end of the slider would not stick out the back of the wing. That's probably as clear as mud, but the short version is that you could probably keep the slider release all internal, and it would reset whenever you put the hook up.

If this doesn't give you enough to go on, feel free to ask more questions. BTW, the new Fury plans look great, and 350 sq. in. should be about right. Don't be afraid to sneak the wing a bit farther forward for CG if necessary.

Bill

Bill answered most of the questions very well, so I will just add a note about my techniques for doing the slotting and the moving line guide.
I put a 2" cutoff wheel (a thin one, as it determines the width of the slot) on the standard Dremel-type mandrel and chuck that up in a small Sherline mill. If you don't have one, a drill press works just as well. Clamp a piece of motormount stock to the mill/drill press table so that the carbon tube, when held in the corner formed by the table and the motormount stock, will allow the cutoff wheel to penetrate the wall of the tube (maybe to the center of the tube.) Set the height of the wheel by adjusting and locking the drill head so the cutter is at the middle of the tube. Turn on the mill/drill press motor and just push the tube along the corner. It will cut a perfectly uniform slot in the side of the tube. Be careful not to rotate the tube when you are doing this or you will have a spiral slot. I fix a balsa stick to the tube and keep this horizontal by eyeball when making the cut.
I make a similar moving line guide as Bill, using the same 1/32" brass sheet and round tubing that fits inside the carbon tube, but instead of putting wood blocks on each side, I drill round holes for the lines and install eyelets that you can buy from Hobby Lobby or a fabric store.

Pete

I use the Sullivan #507 cable pushrod and tube for the slider release. On some of the carbon tube sliders I had trouble with the slider sawing off the end of the cable due to vibration. This necessitated the use of a thin music wire release wire to fix the problem. This was not 100% trouble free either, as it tended to bind a bit sometimes. Now I solder a short piece of 1/32 music wire to the end of the cable. This means the cable has to be built into the airplane during construction; the solder joint won't pass through the tube. If you look at photos of my built-up Zero wings in previous posts, you can probably make it out.