I just modified my plans for the S-2 Sterling Mustang specifically for Carrier.  I am showing details as I would set this one up for carrier use.  I felt the S-2 Mustang was potentially one of the best carrier subjects available in the "good old days" of carrier in the late 60's and early 70's.  I am attaching a PDF set of plans for those wanting to see this one.  Copies of the plans are quite available.
Pat Johnston
Branching Out
Skunk Works

I too have liked the Sterling Mustang for Profile Carrier. I morphed one and wrote about it in one of the first isses of CLW. Dave Miller flew it well at a contest in Portland 2 years ago and I will be taking it to Portland next week. I found the LA .25 an excellent engin e for novice usage. Thinking ahead a bit I may make a run of them for next season. this years efforts were for a run of Wildcats that have received sme very nice feed back. Foam wing of course.
Joe

Mike,
you will, Pat and I have been scheming,, muah ha ha,,* sinister laugh*

Mike,
Here are the final drawings for the Mustang.  I made up the leadout guide, put a carb on the FP40, hooked up the carb linkage.  That should get it along pretty well.  I would install plywood tabs to bolt the leadout guide plate to so it can be altered.  Instead, I am showing a fixed plate which will suffice nicely overall.  I may do some little alterations to the plans, but they are 99% done.
One question...  The old J-Roberts system called for 2 1/8" longer throttle line.  The new Brodak unit calls for a 1 27/32" longer line.  I have a Brodak bellcrank and a J-Roberts handle.  What does this mean?  Of course, I can always use longer or shorter line clips to fine tune the whole system.  Figured you should know...
Pat

The leadout length specifications really confuse the issue. You can make the leadouts any length you want. Here'e what's important: Lay your handle on the workbench, and pull the trigger all the way back. Measure the difference in the lengths of the up and down cables compared to the throttle cable. Now push the trigger all the way forward and measure again. Note that when you push the trigger forward, the throttle cable retracts into the handle and the up/down lines extend out. The movement of the throttle cable relative to the up/down cables is what you want to measure. Now, do the same thing with the bellcrank. If the measurements match, you're all set.

The old, original J-Roberts handles and bellcranks have less movement than the G&S/ L&R/ Brodak handles and bellcranks. (Unfortunately, Brodak clouds the issue by labeling their handles "Brodak-J-Roberts".) If you use and "old" handle with a "new" bellcrank, you won't get full throttle travel coming from the bellcrank. This can still be made to work, as long as you get full travel at the carburetor. However, if you use a "new" handle with an "old" bellcrank, the bellcrank will "bottom out" at one or both ends of the throttle travel. This will cause line(s) to go slack, which is a bad thing. If the pilot is aware of the possibility, he can work around it.

All that being said, it is best to use stuff that matches. It's tricky enough to make it all work anyway, so why make it harder?

Pat, the method Bill outlined works fine. I use the Brodak handle and bellcrank on everything and a 2 1/8 measurement with the up down lines pulled tite.If you can make line clips that is the way to go for adjustment. Also be aware that all Brodak handles are not created equal. If you try to use another handle things may not work correctly.On my latest airplanes I run the lines directly to the bellcrank,no leadouts. To do this you need to unroll the lines to 60 feet and match cut and crimp them to the handle.
See you in Portland Sunday!
                                                        Mike