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Speed,Combat,Scale,Racing => Carrier => Topic started by: bill bischoff on January 21, 2011, 05:29:05 PM
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Here are the first pics of the Dumas Crusader I am building for nostalgia. This was the first carrier model I ever built 25 years ago. The first one was covered in Silkspun Coverite (raise your hand if you remember that product) and dope, and powered by a Fox 36 RC MkV. It had external controls and a line slider. It was no world beater, but I usually got complete flights with it. My second contest with it was the 1986 Lake Charles NATS, where I met the "big boys" and joined NCS.
The new one will be covered in Polyspan (my first try at this) and dope. It will also have a Fox 36, although not the same engine. As evident in the photos, the bellcrank will be external and mounted in the "armpit" of the inboard wing.
There is a throttle transfer linkage through the fuselage immediately behind the engine. This is the same setup I have used on my MO-1's for years. Since I'm building it to fly in nostalgia, this model will have adjustable leadouts rather than a slider. The tank is a 3 oz Hayes RC clunk tank. Mounting it on its side puts the vent in the right place, but it also means that I will have to hold the airplane nose up to fill the tank. The tank is mounted with brass straps which are covered with heat shrink tubing to dress them up a bit. And thanks to wwwwarbird, I now have a full set of oh-so-stylish Klett wheels.
I will post more pics as work progresses, but it will probably move along slowly, as life keeps getting in the way of my hobby.
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Really cool... Hated those things when I was in the Navy, they were either trying to suck you in the intake or blow you off the deck :o
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That's looking really great Bill, very nice work! y1
I'm guessing that you've extended the ply doublers to toughen it up for Carrier duty? Other than the obvious carrier mods, it would be interesting to know what all structure and/or substitution changes your making from the original kit design. These kits pop up on Ebay once in a while and I always catch myself thinking about snapping one up, it would just be a cool model even for sport flying.
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The doublers are actually stock. The only structural mod's to the fuselage were to add longer motor mounts and one extra maple block for the top part of the main landing gear. I also moved the main gear back about 1/2" since I plan to balance a little farther aft than the plans call for.
The kit construction is interesting. The wing is an I-beam design. The spars plug into the fuselage, and there are tip jigs which establish the anhedral and sweep back angle. The leading edges are 1/4x1/2 balsa, grooved for 1/4" dowels. The dowels plug into the fuselage in the holes you see in the photos. Yet to be cut out at the aft end of the doublers, there will be a 3/8x5/8 slot for the rear spar. behind the rear spar, the trailing edge is built up of partial ribs and 1/16" sheeting. After all that is assembled, rib slices are trimmed to length and glued in place. The stock setup is for the controls to be inside the wing, but I opted for external controls for simplicity and ease of adjustment. Then there is the full flying stabilator with dihedral.....
Some time after I built my first carrier Crusader, I did in fact build one for another club member as a two line sport model. It had a T-shaped plywood bellcrank mount installed through a slot in the fuselage, about an inch above the bottom.
Wayne, if I can find a copy shop that won't give me a hard time about copying the plans, I'll send you a set. There are half scale drawings of everything. With a little determination, you could scratch one up without a kit.
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I really like your throttle linkage Bill, you're still the man. May inspire me to build the F-8 kit I have stashed away. 8)
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Go for it! With enough tail weight, it will even hang OK. Although for nostalgia, I'll have to learn how not to hang!
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Thanks for the info Bill, this is a cool project, I'll be watching this one develop. y1
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Bill, if I remember correctly, the one and only I built had a flying stab. Is that correct and are you planning on using that. I would build one of these again accept I remember the airplane being extremely squirley. I think mine lasted six or so flights.
Wayne
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Yep! All flying stab. Wouldn't be right without it. I don't remember it as being squirrely, but you do need a tall control horn as not much movement is required. This is typical of anything with an all flying tail.
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Yep, I was much younger then and didnt recognize that fact. Looking forward to more pics.
Thanks
Wayne
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I got the wing framed up today. I took out 1/2" of anhedral from each tip, as it just looked too "droopy" compared to the real airplane. I just added 1/2" to the bottom of each tip jig to raise the tips. I cut new plywood center section joiners, but the kit ones could have probably been made to work.
Next, the center sheeting, trailing edges, and tips...
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I got the wing framed up today. I took out 1/2" of anhedral from each tip, as it just looked too "droopy" compared to the real airplane. I just added 1/2" to the bottom of each tip jig to raise the tips. I cut new plywood center section joiners, but the kit ones could have probably been made to work.
Next, the center sheeting, trailing edges, and tips...
Right on Bill, I always go toward the more scale look over anything else. With some thought and patience this can be achieved and one can still end up with a great performing model. Some may think it silly, but it's my way of showing respect to those who flew the real things and by doing so have maintained our freedom. Beyond that, just fly the plane you've built, have fun, and be proud no matter what the result. y1
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Bill, nice way to jig it up. Was it according to instructions? I see the .500 shim. The sweep back is stock I assume.
Thanks
Wayne
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The instructions are not super explicit on how to set everything up, Basically it says draw a line to represent where the rear spar goes, then perpendicular lines for the fuselage and tip jigs, and have at it. The rear spar goes in the big slot at the aft end of the fuse doublers, and is perpendicular to the fuse. The main I-beam spars have sweepback as well as anhedral. I was intending to build the jig on a piece of particle board, but when I was rooting around the garage at midnight looking for something suitable, the big box of balsa somebody gave me caught my eye. So the jig got built on 3/8 balsa planks! The tip jigs were glued down, and the fuse was just blocked in place.It was nice to work on the model with a solid jig to hold it. It stayed in the jig until all the top ribs were installed.
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Thanks for the pics Bill. I had no idea that this airplane used this construction technique and also not sure I could have figured how to make the wing jig...Cool! 8)
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HI Bill,
I have had one of those for years. It is good to know that I can actually use it in "Nostalgia" if I ever get the chance! ;D I was told it is too small for current Profile rules, so having a class to use it in is good news. Of course, I have to actually fly the beast sometime soon! LL~
Big Bear
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As long as it's over 300 square inches, it's legal for profile carrier. This has been a requirement of profile carrier ever since the profile event was created. There would be no difference in this requirement for nostalgia or current AMA profile. I don't know the exact wing area, but I know it's legal.
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Boy! I just did some preliminary wing area calculations based on what's already built and what's yet to be added, and I get about 304 sq. inches. I will certainly be measuring again when the trailing edges and tips are installed. I did not realize it was so close to the minimum! Maybe I never even measured my first one, but I did fly it at the NATS, so somebody else thought it was legal, too. Who knows, I may be adding 1/4" to the wing tips!
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Boy! I just did some preliminary wing area calculations based on what's already built and what's yet to be added, and I get about 304 sq. inches. I will certainly be measuring again when the trailing edges and tips are installed. I did not realize it was so close to the minimum! Maybe I never even measured my first one, but I did fly it at the NATS, so somebody else thought it was legal, too. Who knows, I may be adding 1/4" to the wing tips!
Hi Bill,
Thanks. I never measured it, but was told at some point in time that it wasn't "legal" for profile. Glad to know it is!
Bill
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As another option that might be of more benefit toward better flying qualities, you could add 1/4" or 1/2" wider trailing edge across the span. More wing area is usually a good thing. Just a thought.
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Wings are on! Trailing edges and tips are next.
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Looks nice, Bill. y1
Big Bear
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Hi Bill, the old DOC here. The one JJ and I used to fly was never short of wing area according to the officials. It was built box stock and weighed a ton. It was a great trainer for the kids also. By the way did I mention your build is looking great. H^^
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Thanks, Doc. I did a bit of calculating with the plans and got about 302 squares, so I'm sure they designed it right to the minimum. But if the trailing edge is trimmed off even a 1/16" small, across the full span that would be over 2 square inches lost. So I'll be measuring again after the TE and tips are added (but before they are shaped) to see if I need to add a little extra span. The suspense just adds to the excitement!
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Bill,
I got the plans copy in today's mail. Man, it's definitely pretty different in construction design.
Who'da ever thunk a Carrier I-Beamer??? Neat model though! y1
Just curious, I know the actual model is bigger than shown here on these plans, but is this copy of the plans the actual size of the original plan or is it shrunk down? (Is that confusing or what??? n~)
Thanks!!!
W.W.
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That's a full size plan. The plane is shown exactly half scale. There's nothing that actually gets built over the plans, so I guess they figured the drawings didn't need to be full size. You could certainly blow it up double size to scratch build one. You might even consider changing the wing structure...
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Thanks Bill, just curious.
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Here's the latest pix. The wing ended up just under 301 sq. inches after I trimmed 1/8" off the too thin trailing edge. Attention now moves to the stabilator. Nothing is glued yet. The surfaces need to be shaped and the alignment double and triple checked. I'm not 100% sure this is the control horn setup I will use. I may go with a 1/4" flat brass arm silver soldered to the wire instead. A simple nylon horn would work, but seems to lack "elegance".
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So I see the long elevator horn. Can't tell how tall it is? I never did like the color scheme on the original kit box. How about a nice Navy two tone gray ala Bob Reeves, a new trend. I think i need to track down a kit for grins. Keep the pictures coming please.
Wayne Buran
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It's a 1 1/2" 4-40 bolt. It's the longest I could find that was fully threaded. I think it will be long enough. I didn't want to use all-thread because it's too soft. If it looks like too much movement once I hook it up to the bellcrank, I guess I'll go with a brass arm.
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How about VF-211 Checkmates This was the F8 squadron that was aboard the USS Hancock when we were flying FJ-4's and later A4's.
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Lookin' great Bill, first real-life photos I've seen of this design, it's cool. No adjustable rudder though? I don't know jack about Carrier class rules, maybe it's not allowed in what you plan to fly.
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Here's a little more detail on the stabilator. Note the use of more jigs for proper alignment. The wing jig is still quite useful in holding the airplane square to the table while aligning the tail.
As for the kick out rudder, my first Crusader actually had one, but I didn't think it did any good, so I didn't bother this time. Also a moderately interesting coincidence, my first one had a red and white checkerboard rudder!
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Bill, If you need an extra long elevator horn I'll make you one to your specs from aircraft aluminium. Send me a PM. Mike
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What's the latest Bill?
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Thanks for asking!
All the construction is done, and now I'm just waiting for some warmer weather so I can begin covering and finishing. Unless I screw up terribly, the next thing to show will be my first attempt at polyspan. Based on what I've read, I am planning to not go much past the tip ribs with the polyspan, and use silkspan on the tips instead. If it all goes south, it'll be Monokote!
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Sounds good.
I'll try and offer a few tips, what works for me anyway...
Even cutting Polyspan can be a little tricky. I always start with a BRAND NEW #11 X-acto. I lay it down on a nice smooth piece of cardboard so it doesn't slip around and cut while using a straightedge. Check, double and triple check to make sure you have the correct side up when you lay it on the wing.
Then check again. y1
I'll cover the wing as usual, running it a couple inches past the end rib so that you have something to hold onto. Once I get it well attached all around the perimiter, I let the clear dry at least 24hrs. Next I'll come back and shrink it with the heat gun, carefully. Shut off a light or something in your shop to get yourself some shadows to watch as you tighten it, this really helps a lot. Sneak up VERY carefully with the heat settings and application until you get used to using the stuff, be patient. Once I get it tightened up then I'll dope it on to the rest of the ribs and sheeting. After that I'll trim it back flush with the end rib. Then, as the last thing, I'll do my wingtips with medium silkspan. I overlap it about an inch back over the Polyspan, and then move on with the rest of the clearcoats on the whole wing.
Polyspan definitely takes some getting used to, but I won't use anything else anymore. When it's all finished it's pretty tough too, which should be good for the abuse Carrier planes have to take.
Hope this helps! y1
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Wayne, I think you "covered" that pretty completely! ;D
Big Bear
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Thanks for the tips. Do you cut it to the correct chord and just a bit long in the span? In other words, are the leading and trailing edges cut to size first, or do they "hang over" and get trimmed off later like the tip?
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Thanks for the tips. Do you cut it to the correct chord and just a bit long in the span? In other words, are the leading and trailing edges cut to size first, or do they "hang over" and get trimmed off later like the tip?
I trim it right after the attachment dope has been put on then dope the cut edges down.
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Hi Bill,
I guess the application varies like any other covering. I apply it exactly like silkspan (but not wet LOL!!) Oversize and trimmed after it is attached with a single edge razor. Both sides of a panel get covered before any shrinking, of course.
The one caveat is that if you do ANY sanding on it before enough finish is applied you WILL get the "fuzzies"! Thin CA is about the only cure for that once they occur as far as I have found.
Big Bear
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I discovered a little trick to killing the fuzzes when I built my Skylark. Smear some clear dope over it, let it dry then very lightly hit it with 400 sandpaper. Just enough to cut off the fibers sticking up and no more. The mistake I was making was being too aggressive with the sandpaper and just raising more fuzzes, a light touch and one or two swipes is all that it takes.
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Thanks for the tips. Do you cut it to the correct chord and just a bit long in the span? In other words, are the leading and trailing edges cut to size first, or do they "hang over" and get trimmed off later like the tip?
I do the bottom of the wing first by lining up the L/E edge of the material to land naturally along the centerline of the L/E, and then just let it hang over the T/E. Depending on the shape of the wing, I might do the whole bottom at once, or in halves, same with the top. Starting with the bottom, I attach it and then trim it off along the T/E. Then I do the top lining up the L/E edge of the material to overlap the bottom piece by a 1/2" or so, and again just let it hang over the T/E. I attach it, and then trim off the T/E. I never worry about having it wrap around the T/E, I just trim it off along the top rear most edge of the T/E.
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The stuff is rayon, and a derviative (or it's just the same) as "sport coat lining". The Burlington plant about 15 miles from here makes it, or at least did. LOL!!
Big Bear
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Why do people use silkspan on the wing tips? I use the scrap peices of Poly-span if I don't do the tips with the main panel. I also make sure that I have severqal coats of dope on the material. Usually do the edges with extra coats. Where the over laps are is where I sand very lightly. When the dope starts to get a little sheen then I add Talc to the dope. Do two coats and then lightly sand. The ones I am working on now I have only sanded the rough edges with more dope. Every body has their way of doing things and that is where expeirmentation comes in. H^^
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Why do people use silkspan on the wing tips? I use the scrap peices of Poly-span if I don't do the tips with the main panel. I also make sure that I have severqal coats of dope on the material. Usually do the edges with extra coats. Where the over laps are is where I sand very lightly. When the dope starts to get a little sheen then I add Talc to the dope. Do two coats and then lightly sand. The ones I am working on now I have only sanded the rough edges with more dope. Every body has their way of doing things and that is where expeirmentation comes in. H^^
HI Doc,
Some people hare just luckier than others I guess!! LL~ LL~ I cannot remember a model airplane that I have ever covered the tips separately on. I just keep going back and forth and pulling, stretching, doping, etc........ But, then, I seem to be one of the lucky ones. ;D
Big Bear
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Some folks are able to do perfect tips with Polyspan, I'm not lucky enough to be one of them. By choice, I simply don't want to burn up a bunch of the stuff experimenting. :)
I do my tips with medium silkspan only because it's my preference. I'm not satisfied if there is even a single tiny little wrinkle in my covering jobs. I just do what works for me.
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Ten days and no updates??? ;D
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Got a few thin coats of clear on the wood last weekend, now ready for covering. Out of town last Tuesday through this evening. Still too dark after work to dope outdoors, so I'll have to wait until my next day off. I guess I can at least cut the covering ahead of time.
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Got the polyspan put on today. It seemed pretty straightforward and user friendly. It's real tempting to break out the heat gun and start shrinking, but I will make myself wait. Maybe some new pix on Sunday.
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Be careful with the heat gun. If you get to close or stop moving you suddenly have a hole. Don't ask how I know. I like the stuff as well as the SLC sold by Phil Cartier at Corehouse. H^^
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Hey, Billy B. is one of the true gentlemen in carrier. It is easy judging him from the center. Never got a complaint from him and he is also a Champion. Last time at the NATS he cleaned house. He really makes it look easy. Also he does not run all over the place trying to maintain slow speed flight. I just need to put his advise into practice. H^^
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Thanks, Doc. Check's in the mail! I got the polyspan on, and shrunk it without any problems. It semed to shrink in a very even and controlled manner. I had a few small wrinkles on the solid wingtips at first, but a little bit more dope and they seemed to work themselves out. So far I've got only one coat of 25% nitrate/ 75% thinner on the open bays. I plan to brush a few coats of "stronger" nitrate over everything tomorrow. After that I'll probably put all the "bits" on again for a photo.
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Good to hear it went well for ya Bill, Polyspan is great stuff. y1
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As promised...
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Looks great Bill, looking forward to the design on the paint job.
Wayne
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Interesting paint schemes.
Tom Wilk
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I've looked a few times during this build for paint scheme suggestions for Bill. Doesn't really seem to be a lot out there, at least any that are somewhat striking. That one is pretty neat though Tom.
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i might have 1 or 2 more
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Here is link to about 130 color profiles
http://wp.scn.ru/en/ww3/f/812/3/0
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The finishing process is progressing. Every coat of clear looks the same as the last, and sanded looks the same as unsanded, so nothing new to show right now.
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I shot the first coat of white this morning. The paint went on OK, but clearly more surface prep was in order.
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I shot the first coat of white this morning. The paint went on OK, but clearly more surface prep was in order.
Depending on what you're seeing, maybe a few little spots of red putty and another coat of white will clean'er up?
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It actually looked much better once the paint dried for a couple of hours. I think a tad of filler and a good 400 sanding will put me in good shape for another coat of white.
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It actually looked much better once the paint dried for a couple of hours. I think a tad of filler and a good 400 sanding will put me in good shape for another coat of white.
Hi Bill,
I missed it. what paint are you using? My version will probably get covering in about two weeks. Polyspan, also, Duplicolor Primer/Filler from the spray cans, automotive acrylic lacquer color with some clear butyrate thrown over the top of it all. I am going to power it with a older (but new) Magnum "big case" .36. Insignias will probably also be from Major Decals. Not going to "tart it up" too much! LOL!!
Big Bear
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Whadd'ya waitin' for, let's see some pics Bill!
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Which Bill? Seems like we need pix from Bill Little. My finish will be butyrate over nitrate, topped with either Klasskote or butyrate clear, depending on what kind of answer I get on my Klasskote post.
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Which Bill? Seems like we need pix from Bill Little. My finish will be butyrate over nitrate, topped with either Klasskote or butyrate clear, depending on what kind of answer I get on my Klasskote post.
Ooops! I meant Bill Little, let's see what'cha got. ;D
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Hi Guys,
I will post some SOON! LOL!! With the "Stunt" season rapidly approaching, we have a couple new stunt planes to get ready. The Crusader is just under going the "stripping/repair" phase. It is almost ready for pictures. ;D
I am really bad about posting pictures...........
Bill
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The white paint is on, the gray paint is on (gee, it didn't look so dark in the can!), got the water slide Major Decals in hand, waiting for the weekend to paint the letters and numbers and red checkerboard rudder. Sorry no pics lately, but it's not quite presentable yet. BTW, I've all but decided to go with dope for the clear coats rather than epoxy for simplicity. However, this is subject to change without notice!
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The white paint is on, the gray paint is on (gee, it didn't look so dark in the can!), got the water slide Major Decals in hand, waiting for the weekend to paint the letters and numbers and red checkerboard rudder. Sorry no pics lately, but it's not quite presentable yet. BTW, I've all but decided to go with dope for the clear coats rather than epoxy for simplicity. However, this is subject to change without notice!
Its gonna look good.
Wayne
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Cool VF-211, we might have to rename the deck at Brodaks USS Hancock, a VA-215 AD-6 or A1-H would be a nice addition to the air group y1
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It's getting close. Here's a teaser. The low resolution from the small file size makes it look kinda crummy.
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Oh yeah, that looks really crummy. :## Seriously though, it's looking really good Bill, very nice job. Gonna put NAVY on the wings?
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Nope. Wouldn't be "scale". None of the pictures in the Squadron/Signal book show the word NAVY on the wings.
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Looking real good.
Wayne
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Looks very nice and will look even better in the air! Mike
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Hey Bill, it is looking great in color. I'll take your crummy looking planes anytime. H^^
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It's getting close. Here's a teaser. The low resolution from the small file size makes it look kinda crummy.
That looks very nice, Bill. I hope mine looks half that good!
Bill
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Nope. Wouldn't be "scale". None of the pictures in the Squadron/Signal book show the word NAVY on the wings.
Yep, I remembered that right after I asked. b1 Looks great! y1
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The clear is on. It's as good as it's going to get. It's not perfect, but at least there were no more decal disasters. In a couple of days I should have pictures of the finished product.
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Were you able to retain all the original markings?
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The water slide insignia on the inboard side of the fuselage survived. There isn't one on the outboard side since the tank would cover it. The insignias on the wing were replaced with pressure sensitive stickers. I went with a slightly larger size to hide the evidence of the mishap, and they actually look better. All the other markings are painted, so no problems there. For those just tuning in, the clear dope topcoats attacked some of the decals. See my post in the "finishing" section for more details. Pictures coming soon...
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Bill, to bad about the decals. When I need to cover the decals I put several coats of clear on the insignia with my airbrush. Easier to do than with my HVLP gun. I am sure it will look fine anyhow. Cant wait for pictures.
Wayne
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A little late now but I've found that Brodak dope eats decals where Sig Lite-coat is a bit less caustic. Haven't had any problems when the first few coats are applied lightly with an air brush. Plane looks great! 8)
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Here's the finished product. More pix when the light outdoors is better.
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Talkin' 'bout that dang 'ol twenty pointer, man!
ol 'd
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Bill, seeing your latest causes me to wonder why I even try to build and finish anything. Great Job!
Joe Just
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Very very nice. Thats why I like carrier.
Wayne
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Turned out great, very nice....
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Looks GRRREAT Bill! y1 Waaay too nice to be smacking down onto a Carrier deck! Now for a .40 size version! VD~ S?P
Just the right amount of detail, very nice job! y1
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I did happen to pick up another House of Balsa A7 Corsair kit last weekend at a swap meet...
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Here's a couple of detail pix. Up elevator releases the hook. The bushing from a 1/2A bellcrank is screwed to the fuselage to serve as a hook stop, and also the anchor point for the spring that drops the hook. The other picture shows the controls. I started a new post to detail the line connections.
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Very nice. y1
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Here's a couple more. Everybody with a kit, it's time. Get Started!
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It flies! Two flights this evening before it started to rain. The carb and throttle linkage need some minor tweaks for a lower idle, but it's super stable (translation: nose heavy) and seems fast. If the weather cooperates for the contest tomorrow, I should have some actual hi and low times, and some flight pictures.
Bill Little, we're waiting...
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It flies! Two flights this evening before it started to rain. The carb and throttle linkage need some minor tweaks for a lower idle, but it's super stable (translation: nose heavy) and seems fast. If the weather cooperates for the contest tomorrow, I should have some actual hi and low times, and some flight pictures.
Bill Little, we're waiting...
LL~ LL~ HI Bill,
Well things don't always go like planned............. I had to get some planes ready for my son and I for this weekends contest which we ended up not being able to go to....... plus my wife is now back at work, 1/2 days, so my constant watch is not needed in that area.
Looks like i will get time now to fix the Crusader! We only have two meets a year around here so this year is already a bust.....
Bill
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I've gotten in about a half dozen decent flights so far. High speed is around 85 mph, and low is about 20 mph. It may not be fully optimized, but it's very stable and just plain fun to fly. David Russum took this pic on a test flight in June.
I just got a copy of it today.
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That's a sweet looking carrier plane, Bill!
Now that we have found out what was wrong with my abdomen, I am going to be able to get more work done when I'm healed up. ;D I have an older big case TT .36 that I am going to use. It is timed too high for stunt and I don't feel like retiming it. It should do fine for my purposes. ;D
Bill
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85 mph for a plane that big on three .015" lines is really fast. What's the power?
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Power is a Fox 36, built up by Mark Smith in about 1992. It started as a typical 1/2" crank sport Fox 36. It has a slightly bored Fox factory reverse crank, a Mark Smith/Willy Wiley ABC setup and button, and whatever else Mark did to it. It has my own carb conversion to accept an OS 4B carb. It's basically a small crank slow combat engine. For years I ran it on 50%, now I am using Powermaster 20/20.
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Well, I don't know where it will fall into the "Build List", but I scored a NIB Dumas Crusader kit on Ebay last night for 46 bucks! (PE**)
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I considered bidding on it, but if I needed another one I'd scratch build it. Here's a wild idea. Build it for carrier as a conventional 2 line plane with a 2.4 ghz radio operated throttle. You can buy a 2.4 ghz car radio for a lot less than a Brodak handle and bellcrank, and avoid unfamiliar and admittedly sometimes troublesome technology. Plus, if you don't like using the throttle, you can fly without it. If you don't like the carrier idea, take the hook off and shoot gazillions of touch and go's. How can you go wrong?
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AHA, so you were the guy that outbid me. Great, at least it's some one worthy. H^^ D>K y1 LL~ LL~
Jeez Ty, now I feel kinda guilty. Thanks for the compliment though. At least you can be sure it will end up in Navy colors!
I'm not sure how I'll approach the project whenever it comes up. I don't fly Carrier so I was just thinking it would be a neat sport flier, but who knows? I REALLY like the way Bill's came out in this post. If I could possibly duplicate that, I'd be very happy. y1
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Wayne and Ty, the one structural mod I would heartily recommend is to put some bracing between the top and bottom rib slices after the wing is built. The ribs have no compressive strength and break very easily!
Bill
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Thanks for the info on that Bill. I almost always add shear webs anyway, it adds a lot of strength and I also think it helps keep the wing straight through the rest of the building and finishing process.
Do you have any pics of yours at that stage?
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All the pic's are earlier in this thread. Reply #21 and #28 show the ribs pretty well. I didn't brace the ribs, and several of them are already cracked. >:(
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Thanks Bill. I can see that I'm going to have to scour this thread whenever I get going on mine. Looks like I'll be making some jigs too.
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Sounds like three great projects! ;D
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Are you going with the I-Beam ribs or are you going to cut new solid ribs? H^^
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I'm going with the I beam ribs. Why change them? I like I beam wings. They are quick to build. D>K
I've never done one, any potential time saved will be lost to head scratching. :)
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I-beam is not that hard to do and sometimes I think is faster than a regular wing. H^^
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I-beam is not that hard to do and sometimes I think is faster than a regular wing. H^^
Hi Doc,
I agree an will say that "construction" is quicker than about any other type of building. It is cutting the ribs that takes time but I do that at night while sitting with the wife watching TV. I don't have a clue as to why some people balk at doing an I-Beam build. Nothing could be simpler!
Bill
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I think the drawback is the jig for making ribs. I adjusted mine several times before I was confortable cutting ribs. Tom Morris' book is what helped me a lot. I also edge glue sheets together to make ribs. Amazing how many ribs can be cut from one sheet of wood. But, then again it takes two peices to make one rib. By the way the edge glued ribs are used for making the half ribs. H^^
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Finally got to see this plane in action at the Tulsa meet. Bill makes it looks so easy flying carrier. The plane looks even better in person. Also I need to start listening and doing what the man says. H^^
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clean