The only real problem I see is that now I may have to remember to charge and, more importantly, transport two transmitters to the field.  I did it tonight - had to turn around and return home for my handle/transmitter.  Shades of my RC glider flying days.   

Yes, I am going through some plastic 'suitcase' types I've collected and will foam line it.  As to the line change capability, that reminds me of one other bit I meant to report here.  I built my handle from one of the old Fox flying handles - the one that is a steel strap with wood grips.  This unit had a very sturdy piece of cable and large copper crimps.  The one I used was still in the bag, but I've probably had it for 25 years.

Anyway, on the pull test the cable end was pulled out of one of the crimps and let go at about 50 lbs.  This is not the first pull test for this unit -- it was my second contest with it, so pulled it to 65 lbs. twice in July.  Also pulled it to 100 lbs when I first had it finished up before I ever flew it and a couple of 70lb pulls the first time I test flew the model.

I was able to scrounge a piece of 1/8" brass tubing and clip off the old crimp and re-crimp using the tubing.  That passed the pull test easily and my lines were still long enough (since I always tie them at 60' 3").  Replaced the whole cable last night so they are back at 60' 3".

I guess the lesson is to check your equipment and don't be surprised when it fails anyway.  I'm putting some cable and large crimping tubes in the bottom one of my flight boxes.

That's a good practice, Paul.  I was commenting on it because it was the factory crimp job that failed, so I presume that even using the correct swaging tools and crimps requires some expertise and in case anyone else planned to resurrect one of these old handles.

Is it intended that the line eyelets are screwed directly to the handle, or do you use line connectors around the screws?