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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Motorman on January 24, 2014, 02:08:21 PM
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I put a "filler" of 1/16th around the edges to give something for the covering to attach to.
BIG Bear
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This is what I'm doing on my akromaster, a cigar tube. I figure I will load most of it with foam and use lead fishing weights. This is my first build bigger than 1/2a and my first weight box so we'll see how it goes.
(http://i.imgur.com/h3D99Bv.jpg)
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innovative for sure, but a bit of overkill.
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The weight of the cigar tube might be too much by itself.
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Cigar tubes are pretty light, and he'll have wiggle room in case he wants to try 0.062 lines.
Motorman: I build a box right behind the spar, with a 1/4" balsa lip all the way around. Then I sand the lip flush with the ribs. That gives the covering something to stick to.
I make my boxes big enough for washers for 1/4" bolts because they're cheap.
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I do it as Tim, a balsa frame around the weight box for the covering to have where to stick to...
Marcus
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Here's a typical installation.
Not floating but a sizable amount of wood area for silk to hold.
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I hope the cap on that cigar tube holds the lead weight in.
MM
What does a cigar weigh? n~
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I have used a small pill bottle set in the plywood tip rib of a Twister. I have also taken wing mount blocks, tapped 1/4 x 20, and dished them out some inside, then build a ply box around them and the balsa around them for the silk to stick to. I use steel BBs put in through the bolt hole, then close the hole with a cut off piece of 1/4 x 20 wing mount bolt.
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The weight of the cigar tube might be too much by itself.
Small cigar tube, weighs .169oz.
Jim
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I hope the cap on that cigar tube holds the lead weight in.
MM
Screw top tube, closes tight.
Jim
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innovative for sure, but a bit of overkill.
But easy, very easy and I get to enjoy a cigar.
Jim
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On a profile with the cylinder and tank on the outboard side, you'll need very little tipweight. I've seen some guys use a piece of 1/4" alum. tubing about 4" long, with a 1/4-28 socket head plug. Glue the tube onto the outboard tip rib and have the plug at the LE. Smash the opposite end flat. FWIW, lead "birdshot" kinda turns to dust as it rattles around and oxidizes. Tungsten fishing weights would be better. Steel birdshot should be ok. D>K Steve
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R/C guys were using aluminum tubes at both wing tips on our pattern ships, back as far as the early 1980.
We would place the tubes at the CG.
Use the same tubes to hold the wing for rotation to do the finish and paint. Lot of guys did it this way.
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Not where I come from we didn't! She's right mate! Just jam a 1/4" roofing nail in the wingtip! ;D
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I'm with you, Jim the Macanudo tube is cool. Might want to stake it with a bit of music wire or something in case the glue lets go and it turns the first time you try to unscrew it. Damn, now I want a cigar!
Rusty
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This is how I did it on my Banshee.
Paul
In OZ
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Good start ...
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What's recommended in the kit is always good. Remember that way too much tip weight means that you fly ugly, and way too little means that the airplane comes in on the lines and may crash. You can decide for yourself which "too" is the better one to start with.
(it's not a sudden cliff or anything: just a bit too little tip weight means that the airplane gets a bit light at certain places. But way too little tip weight definitely gives the flight a high pucker-factor.)
Remember, also, that if you change line length you'll need to retrim for (at least) tip weight and leadout location.