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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: adam collver on September 22, 2013, 08:03:56 AM
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My building board is just crap even using 3/8ths glass. Anybody have a good wing jig out there.
And also i just finished a fancher twister what would be a good first choice for a full bodied stunter.
Thanks
Adam
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What do you mean by "just crap"?
Two rods, some blocks that are all the same thickness, and the right sized holes in the wing ribs is exceedingly simple, but with care will let you put together a very accurate wing if you've got a good flat surface to base it on.
Of course, you need those holes...
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Brodak sells a wing jig for $32.00 that I just bought with a Cardinal kit. I really like building this way except I want to buy another one to help when you finally need to put the two half wing sections togetter. I was a little hesitant to use to jig at first but once I placed all the ribs on it and aligned it over the plans everything was spot on accurate. The other bonus is I framed up one wing half without using any pins in less than an hour. This was manly accomplished because the kit had very accurate holes laser cut in them.
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I myself have used the Tom Morris wing jig system. Then I did my own version of the Bob Hunt lost foam wing system. The latest is the CLC wing jig system. All of them take time to make sure all is level and straight. Only had one wing that did not stay straight when I removed it from the jig it was on. I blame that on me for using warped wood to begin with.
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If you are going to make your own order some small diameter drill rod. It costs just a little more than cold roll steel and is much harder and therefore stiffer. Glue also won't stick to it especially if you apply a wax to it.
I used some arrow shafts and bent 1 1/2 inch aluminum strip. Other than gluing the wing to one of the carbon fiber shafts I had excellent results...however glue sticks really good to carbon fiber so some effort was needed to get the one shaft out.
My building table was almost 1/2 sheet of "scrap" 3/4 inch subfloor covered in plastic and a Fiskers cutting board. This was on a simple card table. It is now taken apart and stored.
Phil
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I build straight wings. And it is easier than some people think. I use 1/4" steel rods and wood blocks cut exactly the same size. Building board is an ordinary hardware store 3/4" composition "shelf", faced with some sort of plastic. I don't have to bother with "straight" or "level" nonsense. It is probably straight within a few thou.
So you go to all the trouble with "shimming" and such, only to have the wing take on a warp while covering! They all do! The trick is removing any warps after first flights.
I cover with silk or heavy silkspan. Warps can be removed using a steaming hot bath towel wrapped around the wing and some weights.
Don't make it harder than it actually is!
Floyd
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I made my own that is based on the Tom Morris "millennium" system. Except my is adjustable. Works pretty well.
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.0015 thousanths is 1 1/2 Microinches! I would imagine that is indeed "close enough".
F.C.
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Just my 2 cents: Legacy 40, carefully follow the instruction book, use the Brodak wing jig. It is an excellent kit and a straight forward build. Ditto for the Vector 40 kit. Another candidate is Tom Niebuhr/Blue Sky Models "Hobo". It was designed specifically as a first time built up model.You can contact Tom through this forum for details. 8)
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Legacy 40 is very good...
Vector too...
Get both... VD~
Marcus
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Thanks guys, can you use the brodak wing jig for any brodak kit?
And as for engine ive got old used motors i would like get a brand new engine if i didnt want to buy a brodak 40,
Whats another good option i was thinking of the double star engines or just sending in an os fp to get reworked i dont
Want to drive in a top notch stunt moter into the dirt as im still learning the pattern.
Thanks guys
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Lots of folk just run an OS LA-46 bone stock. Lots and lots of folk. Use the smallest venturi that comes with, don't be afraid to pile on little squares cut from some nylons to tame it down more, use an APC 12.25 x 3.75 prop, and go.
I struggled and struggled with my LA-46 (and a reworked LA-40 that was given to me) until I took the "pile on squares of nylon net" advise to heart. Once I did that, everything just tamed down and worked right.
There's a "List your LA 46" thread pinned to the top of the engine forum -- there's lots of useful advise in there.
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The kits mentioned have lazer cut holes in them that correspond to the spacing of the rods in the Brodak wing jig. I suppose it could be used on other models however you would have to cut your own holes. Note: The Brodak wing jig requires that the wing be built in two separate halves then joined in the middle. This is typical when building free flight and R/C models but some C/L modelers do not like this technique. I did not find it a problem.
For more building techniques, check out the RSM website (rsmdistribution(dot)com). Look under "Building Guides" in the menu, left side of screen. I think you may find them informative, especially the one on the Mackey Lark.
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First post, hope I can help. If you want a flat building surface get in touch with your local soda company. Ask them if they have any glass door coolers that they're throwing away. If you're lucky they'll give you one no charge. The doors are flat, glass is tempered, and the doors are fairly easy to manage. If you want to stick pins,just put a piece of sheetrock on top. Good luck
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First post, hope I can help. If you want a flat building surface get in touch with your local soda company. Ask them if they have any glass door coolers that they're throwing away. If you're lucky they'll give you one no charge. The doors are flat, glass is tempered, and the doors are fairly easy to manage. If you want to stick pins,just put a piece of sheetrock on top. Good luck
If someone is getting rid of a sliding glass patio door the same is true...unless it is shattered.
Phil
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Here's how I made simple wing jig:
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwSse-lP9gyxygxsc5-r2_fADfAbAAxb4
It works very well and simple to do.
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There is a thread on the Brotherhood of the Ring forum about building a wing jig http://www.brotherhoodofthering.info/mbbs22/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=114&posts=93&start=1 (http://www.brotherhoodofthering.info/mbbs22/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=114&posts=93&start=1)
The basic jig is 48 inches long but you can build longer wings as a single unit by simply using rods (tubes etc) that are longer and letting them hang over the ends of the jig. (The wing in the photos is 52 inches).
You will have to register on the forum to see the thread www.brotherhoodofthering.info (http://www.brotherhoodofthering.info). I built one a few years ago and find that it works great. Bill Gruby authored the thread and it includes the specifics for the build.
I will attach a couple of photos of my jig.
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I see the wonderful oval tailfeathers in the background!
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Here's my wing jig. Granite counter top.
Good thing the place we just bought has granite also. ;D
Simple long shim placed at the trailing edge allowed for rib alignment. Which, actually is what the jig is all about.
Never used a jig of any sorts as a kid building many CL models. Just built the wing on any flat surface. Bet many of the old timers have done that.
Charles
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If you are going to make your own order some small diameter drill rod. It costs just a little more than cold roll steel and is much harder and therefore stiffer.
A common misconception. All iron based steel alloys are, for all practical purposes, equally stiff...ditto for various heat treatments. Yes the strength and hardness vary a lot, but not the stiffness. Young's modulus is going to
be 200 GPa give or take a couple percent at most.
There may well be reasons drill rod is preferable, but it is not stiffer.
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A common misconception. All iron based steel alloys are, for all practical purposes, equally stiff...ditto for various heat treatments. Yes the strength and hardness vary a lot, but not the stiffness. Young's modulus is going to
be 200 GPa give or take a couple percent at most.
There may well be reasons drill rod is preferable, but it is not stiffer.
Yes, you are right. Plastic deformation is really the concern here, and drill rod will resist permanent bending much better than mild steel.
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Even though im still learning the pattern and havent flown my twister would building and flying a legacy be to much plane for me?
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My friend Joćo built one as his second ship, and learned the pattern with it...
I don't see how a ship can be too much... maybe one can't get the most out of it, but everybody would like to drive a fancy sports car, even when can't drive at all...
Go for it, put a good engine in the nose and have fun!!!
Marcus
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Even though im still learning the pattern and havent flown my twister would building and flying a legacy be to much plane for me?
It won't be too much plane. But it'll be more involved to build, harder to adjust, more fragile in a crash, and harder to rebuild after.
The Twister wing construction will tend to burst the covering and pop ribs in a crash, rather than pulverizing. The fuselage will be less likely to break than a full fuse model, and easier to stick back together in decent alignment when it does. All the controls hang out in the breeze where it's easy see that everything is right and easy to correct when it's not, and easy to tweak if you think tweaking needs to be done.
Frankly, unless you have a really good friend who flies Advanced or Expert and is willing to trim your plane for you, then you should seriously consider keeping the Twister in reserve until you've learned the pattern, and flying a good flapless ship, like a Skyray or a Flight Streak.
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Well i know how to do some flyin i can fly inside and outside loops with a four runner.
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Does a full fuse stunter fly better than a profile im sure it all depends on how straight u build it.
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Yes and yes.
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Forerunner is a first class profile stunt ship .... Joe