Author Topic: Coverlite Iron-On Tissue (Read 7083 times)

Randy Powell · « **on:** January 07, 2010, 11:05:48 AM »

Has anybody tried this stuff. It's an iron-on that looks a bit like dyed silkspan. How heavy is it? Can you paint this? It says you can, but I'd like to hear from someone that's used it.

Bill Adair · « **Reply #1 on:** January 07, 2010, 02:55:52 PM »

Randy,

Bought some, but haven't used it yet.

Label says it's 1oz/sq yd, or 28g/sq. meter. I'm still looking for Coverlite Adhesive. Says Balsarite can also be used, and I assume that is the film version. Made in England, so that is a plus in my book.

I'll be watching this thread for info.

Bill

Richard Fleming · « **Reply #2 on:** January 07, 2010, 06:32:35 PM »

Hello Randy, I have used it on my Ringmaster. It is light and holds up well. I have some Lustercoat paint between the fuse and wing area so the painting seems to work out ok. I used the SIG Stix-it adhesive and iron it down. It does wrinkle alittle more than I like on solid areas and you have get most of all the slack out on the covering before shrinking it as it does not shrink like Monocote. I do like the semi-transparent look it has in the air and works excellent on 1/2A airplanes too. Faster than silkspan and dope.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #3 on:** January 07, 2010, 11:01:31 PM »

So, you have to provide the adhesive. That's cool. I was thinking about this stuff in lieu of transparent Monokote.

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #4 on:** January 08, 2010, 10:27:26 AM »

Quote from: Bill Adair on January 07, 2010, 02:55:52 PM

Randy,

Bought some, but haven't used it yet.

Label says it's 1oz/sq yd, or 28g/sq. meter. I'm still looking for Coverlite Adhesive. Says Balsarite can also be used, and I assume that is the film version. Made in England, so that is a plus in my book.

I'll be watching this thread for info.

Bill

Bill,
I am not sure I understood you exactly, but the BalsaRite to use for sticking things down is the "fabric" version, not the film version. I mention this because my Coverite MicaFilm instructions say to use the original fabric version of Balsarite, not the film kind. I am not sure exactly what the difference is between the film and fabric, whether it is chemical (like an adhesive) or simply thickness.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #5 on:** January 08, 2010, 11:39:04 AM »

So, this stuff is a light, polyester based fabric, right?

Richard Fleming · « **Reply #6 on:** January 08, 2010, 04:31:15 PM »

Hello Randy, I don't know. It states that it is synthetic tissue. Use Coverlite Adhesive or Coverlite Balsarite for applying Coverlite Iron-On Tissue. It does look like doped on tissue and is about as thick as small grade silkspan for the 1/2 A models. It took four packs of covering to cover my Ringmaster. Richard

Randy Powell · « **Reply #7 on:** January 08, 2010, 04:52:00 PM »

>>It took four packs of covering to cover my Ringmaster<<

Wow, so would one sheet be big enough to cover a wing panel on the 600 square in wing?

Edit

So, I looked online and sheets are 19.5" x 36". So, to do a 56" wing with a 10 inch root chord, you'd be talking 4 sheets. Hopefully, there's be enough let over to do the flaps and tailplane. Which way does the grain run? The short direction or long direction?

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #8 on:** January 08, 2010, 05:11:11 PM »

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=COVERLITE

Says the sheets are 19.5" x 36", so I'd think you'd need 2 sheets to cover your wing, tops.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0006p?&T=1&I=COVQ1802&E=N

Tech Info says to use the fabric Balsarite.

I don't know much about Balsarite, but Nils uses it on most everything, so you might want to ask him for guidance. I think it would be alright. The Tech Info doesn't say if it's Poly or Nylon or whatever, but chances are it's Poly. Maybe the Coverite website would spill the beans on that, or maybe you could ask them. I'm not sure that the type of covering matters that much, when you put 16 oz. of Urethane clear topcoat on it.

Steve

Bill Adair · « **Reply #9 on:** January 08, 2010, 05:43:50 PM »

Alan,

I've used Balsarite fabric formula with Sig fabric, and assumed that the film version would work better for Coverlite. That may be an incorrect assumption on my part.

Coverlite is both sealed and fuel proof right out of the package, more like Monokote than raw fabric like Sig Coverall.

Strange that the Coverlite instructions and package label never mention which Balsarite formula to use, or a grain direction. The grain is visible in the Coverlite, when out of the package. The instructions also say that it can be applied with the dull side, or the glossy side out.

The instructions say it is made from Polyester fibers.

Bill

John Hammonds · « **Reply #10 on:** January 08, 2010, 06:51:15 PM »

This sounds very similar to "Litespan" (Produced by Solarfilm in the UK http://www.solarfilm.co.uk/aboutus.html ). It's between 28 - 32 gsm and has the look of heavy weight tissue. Litespan also has dull and shiny side and can be applied either way with Balsaloc and is fully fuel proof as ironed on. it even comes in the same size sheets....

Litespan unfortunately has the grain running along the shortest length of the sheet and adds no strength at all if applied with the grain running "the wrong way". It's great over sheeted surfaces though and accepts most paints. They also do one called "Airspan" which is lighter 24 - 28 gsm but requires sealing with dope.

TTFN
John.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #11 on:** January 08, 2010, 07:53:52 PM »

>>Says the sheets are 19.5" x 36", so I'd think you'd need 2 sheets to cover your wing, tops.<<

Well, if the grain runs lengthwise then it would be at least a 1/2" short of doing a whole wing panel (top and bottom). When you consider the arc of the airfoil and the surface of the trailing edge (using a square TE), it would be more like an inch and a half short.

But the real question at this point is, which direction does the grain run?

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #12 on:** January 08, 2010, 08:01:47 PM »

FWIW,
I covered a Clancy Lazy Bee (RC) plane with Lite Span.

It looked really neat, but if Coverlite is similar to Litespan, I would say it is pretty wimpy, especially compared to Monocote or Ultraspan. In other words, it may not work well for a full size PA plane.

I am also not sure how well it accepts paint. But I have never actually used Coverlite--unlike Litespan or Micafilm. Micafilm is a pretty tough covering, but it doesn't really like paint--unless you can find the unprimed version (I am not even sure if Micafilm is available anymore.)

dave siegler · « **Reply #13 on:** January 09, 2010, 12:26:28 PM »

I have used it to cover a baby flite streak. And I will use it again. It is prety neat stuff. No paint. Just enought for a small 1/2a -15 sized airplane.

Also consider this stuff.

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=V014596

It may be the same as coverlite.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #14 on:** January 09, 2010, 12:44:59 PM »

But can someone tell me which direction the grain runs? lengthwise or crosswise.

Bill Adair · « **Reply #15 on:** January 09, 2010, 01:03:31 PM »

Just unfolded a sheet of blue Coverlite, and the grain runs the length of the sheet. Very odd that grain is never mentioned in the instructions, or on the package label.

Bill

Randy Powell · « **Reply #16 on:** January 09, 2010, 01:12:08 PM »

Thanks, Bill. That's what I wanted to know. and the stuff noted at BP Hobbies is 20" x 72". That could be the way to go (except they are current out of stock on the colors I want - Sigh...)

I think this would be cool to use as it appears to look sort of like died silkspan.

Bill Adair · « **Reply #17 on:** January 09, 2010, 01:29:57 PM »

Plan to use mine on 15 size or smaller sport airplanes, to see how strong it is, and how easily it goes on. Have a Sig Acromaster kit, and have ordered a Clown to be powered with 15 size engines.

Still haven't found Balsarite locally, but have one more shop to check.

Covered my first r/c trainer with Coverite fabric that is already painted, and did not like the adhesive on the covering. The covering was super strong, but tended to lift at the edges while wiping down after a flight.

Used Balsarite on a FF airplane that I covered with Micafilm. I did not like the fabric formula because it was too thick, and seemed more like rubber cement than dope. That's why I plan to try the film version if I can find any.

Not sure Coverlite is strong enough for 40 size CLPA airplanes, but it's worth a try. In any event, it shouldn't be hard to remove, if you don't like the stuff.

Bill

Randy Powell · « **Reply #18 on:** January 10, 2010, 08:06:56 PM »

Well, I ordered some, we'll see what we get

Neville Legg · « **Reply #19 on:** January 11, 2010, 01:33:14 AM »

I'm told you can use water thinned PVA as an adhesive for these coverings! Just brush on the wood and let it dry, the heat from the iron polymerises the the PVA. I've never tried it, but my dad says it works fine. I did read an article many years ago in RCM about applying wing sheeting using this method, the PVA was applied to the ribs, and the sheeting where it touched the ribs, a solafilm iron was then used on the sheet and the PVA acted like a contact adhesive.

Cheers Neville

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #20 on:** January 11, 2010, 10:27:30 AM »

Actually the BalsaLoc adhesive I bought when I was applying the Litespan to my Lazy Bee sort of resembled a slightly thinned white glue. Maybe that's what it was (for all I know).

I think Len Neumann (SSW) mentioned using your technique to glue wing skins on (in some post from many years ago). You let the glue dry on both the foam and wing skin, and then use a iron the warm up the balsa on top. At least that's what I remember (I may not remember the details that well!

).

But it is an easy thing to try on some covering and the edge of a piece of balsa.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #21 on:** January 11, 2010, 04:14:42 PM »

I went with Balsarite.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #22 on:** January 11, 2010, 06:00:51 PM »

Neville, I hope your PVA is the same as white glue(Elmers). Original article I seen involved an R/C design. I have tried it and it works on sheets of balsa 1/16 or less in thickness. Do it right the first time as it won't work on the second try. I secured wing ribs to sheeting this way, but have to have pressure til it cools.

Neville Legg · « **Reply #23 on:** January 12, 2010, 01:19:42 AM »

PVA, polyvinyl acetone, or is it alcohol ? as we call it here in England, its just white carpenters wood glue, probably best to use the waterproof variety. Back in the '60's I built a Coy Kat 54" OS35 powered stunter using PVA, the non-waterproof variety (don't think they had a waterproof version then?)
The model lasted years, it was re-covered a couple of times, I used solarfilm once, and everybody in the club used to fly it. I took it home and gave it a good wash one day (soap and water) as it was looking a bit tatty, left it in the sun in the garden to dry, came back to it a few hours later to find it had gained some anhederal !!!! and set that way, a few other joints had come undone as well! I wet it and straightened it and it flew on for a while till a friend flew it into the ground learning to do loops, We set fire to it where it crashed! (Vikings farewell

) I've got the plans to build a new one,................ some day!!!!

Cheers Neville

Randy Powell · « **Reply #24 on:** January 13, 2010, 04:55:17 PM »

So, just to clarify, you paint the Balsarite on the areas you're putting the covering. Then what, let it dry then iron on the covering like you would with Monokote or similar? Then shrink it up? The Balsarite is basically just the adhesive that would normally be on the back of the film. Correct? (hey, I haven't used this stuff before. Just want to be sure I'm understanding this OK)

Bill Adair · « **Reply #25 on:** January 13, 2010, 05:08:37 PM »

That's about it.

Mine has instruction sheets in each bag, but they don't even specify which Balsarite formula to use, or the grain direction in the tissue. Had to visit the Coverite web site to find any mention of using the Fabric formula.

Bet the FF forums will have plenty of info on this covering. Saw a wing covered with it at our club meeting Sunday. Don Curry did a beautiful job with the blue Litespan, which sounds for the world like Coverlite.

Bill

Larry Renger · « **Reply #26 on:** January 20, 2010, 01:58:42 PM »

I love Coverlite. Use it all the time. I apply it with Balsarite fabric formula thinned slightly, 2 coats, then iron on. The stuff is rediculously tough for its weight, totally fuelproof, and dents can be ironed back out. I have used it extensively on 1/2A models (see photo), but Andy Borgogna has it on a Humongous and it stands the flight loads perfectly. He even has his engine exhaust blowing over part of the wing with no damage.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #27 on:** January 20, 2010, 03:28:09 PM »

Well, the stuff cam yesterday. I got red, blue and a bunch of yellow (like 6 packets). That should do. We'll see how it does on a 600 square inch stunter.

Michael Boucher · « **Reply #28 on:** February 01, 2010, 10:43:35 AM »

Do you have to coat it with something after covering? Can it be painted on for trimming? If so, what can you use? Can another color of it be ironed on for trimming? Thanks, Mike

Randy Powell · « **Reply #29 on:** February 01, 2010, 02:08:41 PM »

Hi Michael,

Well, my original plan was to use other colors as a sort of trim coat, but a moment's thought killed that idea. It's transparent and you have to shoot the adhesive down first. But according to the blurb in the ad, it's paint-able. Not sure of how fuel proof it might be, though.

Kim Mortimore · « **Reply #30 on:** February 01, 2010, 02:48:35 PM »

Quote from: Larry Renger on January 20, 2010, 01:58:42 PM

I love Coverlite. Use it all the time. I apply it with Balsarite fabric formula thinned slightly, 2 coats, then iron on. The stuff is rediculously tough for its weight, totally fuelproof, and dents can be ironed back out. I have used it extensively on 1/2A models (see photo), but Andy Borgogna has it on a Humongous and it stands the flight loads perfectly. He even has his engine exhaust blowing over part of the wing with no damage.--Larry Renger

Larry,
Is this with unpainted Coverlite for both your 1/2A models and Andy's Humongous? Or possibly with clear dope or on top? How tight does the Coverlite shrink without dope?

Thanks,
Kim Mortimore

sleepy gomez · « **Reply #31 on:** February 01, 2010, 05:42:16 PM »

Are Coverlite and Coverite the same product?

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #32 on:** February 01, 2010, 07:09:52 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on February 01, 2010, 02:08:41 PM

Hi Michael,

Well, my original plan was to use other colors as a sort of trim coat, but a moment's thought killed that idea. It's transparent and you have to shoot the adhesive down first. But according to the blurb in the ad, it's paint-able. Not sure of how fuel proof it might be, though.

Randy:
I was able to di this on Micafilm on a SAM model by cutting out the trim pieces, then painting the backside with Balsarite. That turned it into a piece of iron-down trim...

Randy Powell · « **Reply #33 on:** February 02, 2010, 02:34:28 PM »

Dennis,

Now that's an idea.

Sleepy,

No, Coverite is the company that makes several types of covering including Red Baron and Coverlite.

Kim Mortimore · « **Reply #34 on:** February 02, 2010, 03:04:01 PM »

Randy,

Are you going to run any tests before you commit your 600 beauty to this new material? If so, we are all very interested in any results you might come up with.

Thanks,
Kim Mortimore

Randy Powell · « **Reply #35 on:** February 02, 2010, 05:14:06 PM »

Kim,

Yea, I've already built a little test piece. I'm going to cover it this weekend with the Coverlite and shrink it up then try shooting some catalyzed polyurethane clear over it to see what it does. I also plan to try some colored dope on it. Let you all know what happens but based on examination, it should work well.

Larry Renger · « **Reply #36 on:** February 02, 2010, 08:40:48 PM »

As mentioned above, Coverlite is completely fuelproof as is. It is heat shrunk. No overcoating needed or desired. Too much clearcoat will make it brittle. The models shown are the raw film. I would experiment with a sample before overcoating it!

Here is the original Sky Sport, about 5 years old now, and still has its original covering.

Warren Leadbeatter · « **Reply #37 on:** February 02, 2010, 10:40:31 PM »

Coverlite and Litespan are the same thing. I have both and even the instructions are the same. Only problem I have is I cant get Balsaloc or Balsarite here. Anyone know what I could use as a substitute? I covered my first Super Clown with it using PVA glue. It came out nice.

Don Curry AMA 267060 · « **Reply #38 on:** February 03, 2010, 09:20:05 AM »

Balsaloc is the brand they recommend. It is available through HobbyLobby where I also purchased the covering. I use it on free flight rubber models because I can not use dope. It is very light fuel proof and air tight as it comes from the package. I plan on trying it on some smaller c/l planes as well.

Don

Neville Legg · « **Reply #39 on:** February 03, 2010, 10:40:54 AM »

Warren, You can use water thinned PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate) White wood glue. Try it on a scrap piece of wing or tail! Even the chap at my local model shop reckons its thinned PVA. You can thin it with alcohol too!

Cheers Neville

Larry Renger · « **Reply #40 on:** February 06, 2010, 01:28:44 PM »

So how did the test panel turn out?

Randy Powell · « **Reply #41 on:** February 06, 2010, 03:46:28 PM »

Larry,

I've been spending the last two days trying to get my shop heater installed and working. One thing is certain, I'm no electrician. So, I'm currently testing circuits and stuff. No work on the Ring or the test panel.

Larry Renger · « **Reply #42 on:** February 27, 2010, 01:13:41 PM »

Did you ever do that sample?

Pinecone · « **Reply #43 on:** March 11, 2010, 05:36:29 AM »

The Balsarite Film version is an adhesion promoter for films that have adhesive on them, like Monokote, etc.

The Fabric version is for sticking down products that don't have any adhesive already on them.

Author Topic: Coverlite Iron-On Tissue (Read 7083 times)

Alan Hahn

Alan Hahn

Alan Hahn