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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Ron Heckler on December 20, 2009, 09:08:40 AM
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Hi everybody,
I would appreciate any info you can give me on your method of "joining" flaps and elevators together before installing horns. I am looking for an alternate way of doing it other than my method.
Thanks
Ron Heckler
Queens, New York
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Ron, I don't think I understand the question. My flaps and elevators are joined by the horns.
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Hi Clint,
I'll tell you how I do it and then you will understand what I am looking for.
I place the flaps or elevators (1/4" x the length) on the table allowing the distance in between for the fuse.
Then I use a piece of 1/4 Square maple as the joiner to attach the two pieces. This is epoxied to the 2 pieces of wood recesssed so it lines up flush with the edge. When dry they are monokoted. Then the horn is attached and ready for installation. The reason I do this is because I have arthritis in my hands and find it very difficult to drill holes in the centers of the flaps or elevators and keep it centered to accept an offset control horn (I build profiles). So far, I have had no problems, but other flyers are telling me it does not seem to be a secure system. I am looking to see if other flyers have an alternate method of doing this that I can adopt.
Ron Heckler
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Ron, I don't think I understand the question. My flaps and elevators are joined by the horns.
I think he's asking about external nylon horns, where the horn is like the ones on one piece elevators. Right, Ron?
That is, the advantages and disadvantages (I'm guessing now) of 1/8" over 3/32" as the joiner -- for example.
Larry Fulwider
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I use the 1/8 or 3/32nd wire and if you have a drill press you should be able to drill the holes without the arthritus problem. If no Drill press Harbor frieght has them real cheap. Brodak also makes flap horn boxes that you could glue proper size copper, alum or brass tube in for the horns to fit in.
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Thanks fellas,
I see what I have to do now to eliminate any future problems.
Ron
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I'd like to follow up a bit on what Ron said. I have sometimes considered just such a replacement or 1/8" or 3/32" wire with 1/4" square stock. This was not for any advantage in structure, since I can see that "tweeking" would not be possible (would require a trim tab), but because it would be a simpler build, if the goal was just a simpler model. So are there other reasons not to use the wood w/glass or CF? Opinions? Experiences? Thanks.
SK
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I'd like to follow up a bit on what Ron said. I have sometimes considered just such a replacement or 1/8" or 3/32" wire with 1/4" square stock. This was not for any advantage in structure, since I can see that "tweeking" would not be possible (would require a trim tab), but because it would be a simpler build, if the goal was just a simpler model. So are there other reasons not to use the wood w/glass or CF? Opinions? Experiences? Thanks.
SK
The joiner (or control horn wire) bearing is at the heart of a free, precise control system. No slop and little friction. I don't know how you do that with a square joiner.
In the case of a profile, are you thinking of hinging the square joiner, and leaving a largish wedge shaped hole in the fuselage?
Hmm, you said CF, maybe round CF; Shades of Howard Rush and Al Rabe; watch out guys, you never know what Serge is cookin' ;)
Larry Fulwider
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Yes Larry,
A square cut in the fuse. to allow the "joiner" to move freely. Same with the elevator.
My planes fly through the pattern with no difficulty. As SK said, the draw back is, you cannot tweak the flaps in any way and would have to use a wing tab if necessary.
As we all probably know, when someone says a system is not reliable, that's when something happens. I have converted 2 of my profiles to electric, but plan on building a new one for electric. I have designed the plane and my friend will help me with the control system, and in return, I will cover his T-Rex. That's what this hobby is all about. Helping each other just like these forums are a big help and wealth of information.
Thanks to all for your responses.
Ron Heckler
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I'm a little late now, but I see what you're talking about. I was assuming is was a full fuse model. Sorry 'bout that.