Ok, if you are glassing a solid wing for a log-style setup we do that all the time. Everyone probably has a way that uses something they have on hand, but.... Having done a bunch of what are probably similar wings, I have standardized pretty much on the following single pass wet-layup methods:
--Sanded and shaped wing. Can be simply solid balsa, but for racing, we inset a hardwood stub spar for bending strength which also gives a rock solid anchor for the bellcrank. I generally use a "hardened" leading edge piece. It can be spruce for example. I have made a few with tulipwood which works out really well. (At Home Depot they call it poplar. It is not the same stuff that hobby folks see in their LitePly.) For F2C wings I've used laminated 1/16” basswood strips. All are viable. The front half of the wing can be more dense balsa. The back half can be lighter stock. I sometimes harden the trailing edge by insetting a thin strip of plywood. There are tools that make that quite easy. You can do any combination of the above on a built-up (hollow) wing as well.
--A layer of 0.58 to .75 oz glass cloth. If you want more strength/stiffness in the middle section, use a double-layer in the middle. How you overlap the cloth matters and you can avoid making work for yourself later during finishing.
--Use an epoxy resin that is actually designed for this, not some glue that you try to thin out. I find that the ACP EZ-Lam 30 minute resin is exceptional for this purpose. There is plenty of time to do all the application if you have everything ready. I can't remember a batch ever going off on me before I was done. Why EZ-Lam? You need thinner resin for lighter cloth. And the last thing you want is to try thinning with isopropyl alcohol which traps water in the resin and prevents complete curing and full strength. I suspect that adding acetone does nothing good for the polymerization cycle either, but guys do it and swear it is good. But why settle for "good enough" if you can buy an epoxy that doesn't need a bunch of amateur chemistry added to simply wet out? Finally, the EZ-Lam actually sands quite nicely which is not always true of epoxies (or polyesters!)
--The absolute last thing I would screw around with is polyester resin. There's a reason everyone abandoned using it back in the 1970's. Let's leave it at that....
--Some guys will put a thinned "seal coat" of nitrate on the wing blank before starting to laminate with glass. The logic is to avoid soaking up more epoxy resin and adding weight. Using a decent weight wood for a racer or speed plane (no magical 4 lb stunty stuff), and because nearly the whole wing is long-grain, not soda straw end-grain, I haven't found that the EZ-Lam adds an unreasonable amount of weight. So I don't seal first. And I get rid of a waiting period of multiple days while the volatiles in the dope gas off.
--You need a flat table. If your wing is essentially flat-bottomed, you really saved a lot of work.
--The essential truth of a wet layup is that you are doing all of the handling of resin and cloth by adding them to your wing in a planned sequence and using a few techniques. It is a "one-off" fabrication method for us, with no molds...except....
--You can cure in an open layup, a press, or by bagging. We’re not going to talk about resin infusion or glass-in-mold here. I generally use either a press or bagging on solid wings and they aren’t much different in results. On a hollow wing you’re going to want to go with the open layup cure.
--A press is essentially just two urethane foam blocks (think upholstery foam) and two pieces of heavy plywood. The sandwich is: plywood, foam block, bagged wing, foam block, plywood. If your table is flat, skip the plywood on the bottom. Once all stacked up, you put a lot of weight on top of the plywood and press everything down.
--You need all the MonoKote plastic backing material you can get your hands on--if you want to "press" your wing. This results in pretty much a ready to paint wing. The only sanding might be a very slight scuff with 400 or 600 grit. Unless you got the plastic wrinkled up in the press....
--There is also the vacuum bagging option if you have the equipment. But the press gives excellent results and avoids the risk of a starved layup from too much vacuum over the cure cycle. If you go the vacuum bag route, there are specific techniques and materials needed to make this work. Again, you can end up with a paint-ready wing out of the bag.
--If you want a filled surface that is ready to paint, then using a plastic caul the shape of your wing is really effective. To work well, the wing needs to be single-curvature. I use some .040”(?) poly sheet. The finish on the wing is exactly as smooth as the surface of the caul and/or bag.
--Precut all the glass. Using a green cutting mat and a fabric “pizza cutter” is miraculously better than screwing around with scissors.
--The 99 cent throwaway bristle brushes work great for this. (They might be a buck fifty by now though.) If you paint the EZ-Lam on as thin as it will easily go with one of these brushes, you will find that the layup will be only slightly resin-rich—perfect for the press or bagging and achieving near-minimum weight. If you are doing an open cure (no press or bag) then you may need to blot or squeegee some resin. Doable, but unless you have a hollow wing you are just making work for yourself.
--After scuff sanding, I paint with Klass Kote epoxy. Great stuff!
This isn't a "how-to" description. There are a lot more details that make this work well and all of it saves time over other methods. But if you are interested, ask.
Dave