Author Topic: I'd pay for them.... (Read 2806 times)

jim gilmore · « **on:** March 04, 2011, 09:47:12 AM »

Ok, Here is what I'd like but do not see or know where to buy..making them seems problematic by hand.
I know that they make and sell heavy right angles for machinists but how about a laser set of wooden right angles that would be able to be pinned down and hole the fuse straight while I glue on the stab . Maybe a set of 8 ?
I figure they could be laser cut far more accurately than I can do by hand?

Maybe (4) 2"X2" and (4) 3"X3"

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #1 on:** March 04, 2011, 10:02:54 AM »

Why not some cheap 1-2-3 blocks from Enco? Even the cheap ones will be more accurate than wood could hold, they're probably heavy enough that you won't need to do anything to hold them down, and if you do need to hold them in place with pins you can just pin around them.

jim gilmore · « **Reply #2 on:** March 04, 2011, 10:19:22 AM »

Unless I am looking at the wrong items..$21 per block seems like a lot to spend If I need a minimun of 4 just to hold a profile fuse straight ?
Thats why I was thinking if they were made from plywood and balsa they would cost less and could be pinned in pace.

Glenn (Gravitywell) Reach · « **Reply #3 on:** March 04, 2011, 10:44:18 AM »

That is something I have struggled with myself. Jim I think you have a great idea. Just have them cut from 1/8" ply, then when the customer gets them, they can simply glue some 1/4" heavy (you know....crappy) balsa to the bases to take the pins. I'd buy a set.

Warren Wagner · « **Reply #4 on:** March 04, 2011, 11:23:54 AM »

Guy,

My favorite device for holding a profile fuselage vertically during component assembly, is a "angle plate" which is available from machine supply
outlet stores. The particular unit used in this photo, is a 3" x 3 1/2" x 4 1/2", part number G9575, $21.50, from "Grizzly Industrial".

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Slotted-Angle-Plate-4-1-2-W-x-3-1-2-H-x-3-D/G9575

Because of its weight, it does not have to be anchored to the work surface, but as you can see in the photo, the
whole assembly is firmly held in alignment, because the edge of the Melamine board is used as a reference line.

An "angle plate" has a zillion other uses in the shop, in particular when drilling into a work piece, and needing
to maintain a vertical orientation. The next larger angle block would be nice, but the price ramps ups pretty quickly with
increasing size. "Size does matter", but it costs more ! ;-)

Cheers.

Warren Wagner

Glenn (Gravitywell) Reach · « **Reply #5 on:** March 04, 2011, 12:29:50 PM »

I guess that would be nice....but I believe cost is a large factor here. $20 some odd dollars for ONE! Thats a wee bit excessive for some of us here. $20 bucks for a bunch of lazer cut angles is much better.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #6 on:** March 04, 2011, 12:48:06 PM »

How about some short lengths of 2" x 2" aluminum angle stock

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #7 on:** March 04, 2011, 01:00:33 PM »

Sig used to sell 30-60-90 aluminum "builder's triangles". Aluminum takes epoxy really well. What about buying some of those, and epoxying rails along the two edges that are 90 degrees from each other? That'll give them some heft and stability, and if you design the rails right it'll give you something to use to pin the thing down on a board.

Otherwise -- I guess wood triangles would be nice, but I like metal ones. And it's pretty easy for me to talk the local hobby machinist out of 1-2-3 blocks, because he's me!

PerttiMe · « **Reply #8 on:** March 04, 2011, 01:16:02 PM »

Are bricks too big?

jim gilmore · « **Reply #9 on:** March 04, 2011, 01:35:47 PM »

For a 1/2 A

I'd say yes bricks are kind of big.. Thats why I was thinking some laser cut plywood with a tab glues accuratly to each edge maybe pin down to building board and clip/clamp to fuse... trying to cut stuff with a xacto knife is not near as accurate as laser.. At least my cutting is not very accurate.

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #10 on:** March 04, 2011, 02:24:52 PM »

If you really want some plywood triangles, talk to Walter Umland or RSM about it. I'm sure they would not turn down a chance to put their laser to work and make a buck.

I bought some of these (click link below). Notice that the 90 deg. corner has been dogged off to allow clearance for fillets and fuselage bits, a useful idea. Between these, my old drafting kit of triangles, half a dozen 1-2-3 blocks, and some machined steel angles, I think I'm good. DO NOT trust steel or aluminum angle to be square. It is NOT. I have to make stuff like that square at work, and have developed some techniques that usually give very good results...sq. within .001", sometimes less. It's overkill for Boeing tooling, but it's good to be able to do it for building model planes, eh?

Steve

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL456&P=7

John Castle · « **Reply #11 on:** March 05, 2011, 12:44:23 AM »

Quote from: Steve Helmick on March 04, 2011, 02:24:52 PM

I have to make stuff like that square at work, and have developed some techniques that usually give very good results...sq. within .001", sometimes less. It's overkill for Boeing tooling, but it's good to be able to do it for building model planes, eh?

Now there is a comforting thought.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #12 on:** March 05, 2011, 07:35:05 AM »

I can't remember where I seen this idea, but if you have a Work Mate it is very easy to get profile fuselage square with the wing. Put the fuse in the Work Mate and clamp it with the movable surfaces. You have to make sure it sits down in the opening enough so the wing sits on the moving surface. If stab is higher on fuse than wing, do it first. Also some triangles help align the wing when looking down from the top.

jim gilmore · « **Reply #13 on:** March 05, 2011, 07:44:40 AM »

Steve H. , one of my first jobs was a cut-off saw operator in a machine shop for a company that made machines that shrunk textiles. I know that steel and aluminum angles are NOT accurate. But while they are notaccurately machined, the cost to machine steel or aluminum will drive the cost up too far.
A set cut from 3/16 plywood should cost far less and drawing them with autocad should not take more than 15 mins...
Or at least the way I'm told autocad works it shouldn't.
draw 1 copy and repeat ?

Ward Van Duzer · « **Reply #14 on:** March 05, 2011, 02:13:42 PM »

Jim,

You need one of these...

http://www.nwrcc.com/viewpage.php?page_id=20

W.

jim gilmore · « **Reply #15 on:** March 05, 2011, 08:16:00 PM »

Problem is as I've said i'm in NYC taking care of my mom till she passes on...once she does I need to move back to ca. I do not want to carring tons of stuff all around...Simple small angles seem like something I could add to my suitcase.

As stated in another post I have limited space...and seems limited life...sigh..

Geoff Goodworth · « **Reply #16 on:** March 05, 2011, 11:28:18 PM »

I use a couple of short lengths of steel angle, 3 x 2 x 1/4". Heavy enough to stay where they are put and you can clamp the fuselage to them if necessary. Just make sure that you do not get a piece from the end of a length that has been dropped or hit and bent.

Cheers, Geoff

CougDave · « **Reply #17 on:** March 07, 2011, 04:34:36 PM »

Bob Holman makes some laser cut ply triangles in three or four sizes. They are pretty inexpensive, but you have to glue the grooved bases on. He also makes some wing rib holders. I have some on the way to me. I will let everybody know how they work when they get here.

Good Luck,
Dave

CougDave · « **Reply #18 on:** March 08, 2011, 09:05:42 PM »

I just got my Bob Holman order today. The plans and laser cutting are excellent, but the planes have no place to attach the control lines.

(Seriously, they are great free flight, old timer short kits. I got a Mercury and a Scorpion.)

The triangles are pretty neat. They are 5 bucks per ten pack and they come in three sizes. I will also be ordering more of the wing rib holders. They look like the cat's meow for wing building. The bases on the triangles have pin holes buiolt in, an they fit tightly without gluing. If you were a bit creative, you could even break them back down for traveling and use them again.

Another construction trick I might pass alond is one I came up with while buiolding peanut scale free flight models. It will probably only work with the smallest control liners, but it is a neat "quick and dirty" system. I use dice to hold my wing ribs in place. I grew up playing all types of games, sports games, D&D, Traveller and RPGs. I have amassed quite a pile of old dice over the years. Dice are as square as we will ever get a with wooden model. They are resistant to most of the glues I used. They get placed against the wing rib, and captured in place with T pins. Works like a charm, and looks really cool on the building board.

Good luck,
Dave

Chris Edinger · « **Reply #19 on:** March 22, 2011, 08:06:29 PM »

Hey.. Coug.... could ya provide us with a website for these

or mabye an email address and post a pic so we can see them???
sounds interesting.. and reasonably priced...

FLOYD CARTER · « **Reply #20 on:** March 23, 2011, 03:52:20 PM »

I cut wood blocks for jigs on my table saw. They are about as accurate as you would want. I check them for 90 deg. with a machinist's square, which is accurate down to .000000?

F.C.

jim gilmore · « **Reply #21 on:** March 23, 2011, 04:16:20 PM »

Just another tool I do not have in my Mom's 2 bedroom apt.

CougDave · « **Reply #22 on:** March 24, 2011, 12:58:05 AM »

They can be found at

http://www.bhplans.com/

I don't see any CL stuff on his site, but the OT plans and kits are excellent

Glenn (Gravitywell) Reach · « **Reply #23 on:** March 24, 2011, 11:08:53 AM »

Your mom lives in a TWO bedroom apartment....sounds like room enough for a tablesaw, drill press, band saw, etc.!

I couldn't resist....sorry

Chris Edinger · « **Reply #24 on:** March 24, 2011, 12:15:42 PM »

Dave... thanks for the link... those would be handy for lots of things... thanks again.

jim gilmore · « **Reply #25 on:** March 24, 2011, 05:35:37 PM »

Have you seen buried alive ?