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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Ward Van Duzer on August 23, 2008, 08:22:21 AM
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OK, we'va always been told to lay a sheet of wax paper over your plans when you build. You protect your plans, and the glue won't stick to the wax paper!
So, in my somewhat tarnished golden years I decide to build an old stick and tissue rubber powered Guillows LANCER for kicks. (And just to see if I could still do it!)
You can see the rest coming...Lay the wax paper over the plan. Punch out the parts. (Beautiful die cutting!) Pin them on the plan. Here comes the glitch!
Now, I'm not a big fan of CA, but I figure this model won't have a lot of stresses being
applied.
Add a drop of instant CA to each joint. (Qwick build)
Yup, the whole wing is stuck to the wax paper at EVERY joint! An hour of peeling, cutting, and careful sanding and I have my wing back.
WHAT DID I DO WRONG? (Am I just too much of an old timer?)
Ward ::)
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Did the CA wick through the pin holes, or is it stuck everywhere?
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Been there, done that...
When this method became popular, we were not using CA. The glues of the day included Ambroid , white glue (Elmers) and other wood glues. These work well with wax paper.
I know first hand of your disapointment with the CA. Leaves you with more work that you started with. On small models like that you really cannot beat the traditional glues.
Make sure you use a toothpick to apply the glue and use the double glue method.
Very light and strong.
Robert
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Monokote backing seems to work OK but sometimes it'll still stick with enough glue. Thin CA is hard to control and thick is too heavy and doesn't soak it as well. The thin works better with an applicator to help control the glue. I built a wing a few weeks ago and wasted a bunch of glue, built another the other night after adding a bit of the tiny teflon tubing to the tip, and it was much easier to keep the correct quantity of glue, where I wanted it.
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Ty,
Didn't have SARAN WRAP, but had REYNOLDS PLASTIC WRAP. We'll see...Fuselage side glued down now. with back up Gluit white on the tough joints!
Thx, I think!
Ward-o
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I agree with Andrew!
The only problem is finding Monokote backing, if you don't use it to cover. ;D
Monokote backing is great, and will usually peel away from CA joints without leaving residue.
As Russ mentioned, thin CA will find those holes every time, so be careful with the model pins.
Bill
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Well, that didn't work! Actually worse, The thin plastic wrap doesn't sand off. Guess we'll cut new parts and start over. Now, where do I get 1/20th balsa?
W.
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I also build small free flight planes. I have found that traditional glues like ambroid, sigment, duco are the lightest. You can thin most of them acetone and then they will wick in the wood pretty well. Just don't forget to double glue the joints for strength. I build them on saran wrap. I personally haven't found a good source for 1/20 balsa so I strip my own out of 1/16 balsa with a Jones balsa stripper. Hope this helps...."B"
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Here is what you want: Plan Protector
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK313&P=7
Paul
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By Jove, I think I've got it!
(This is a definately a different kind of modeling).
Put the second fuselage half together on wax paper using (double glued) Pica Gluit. Yup, still have some of that...
Peeled right off the wax paper. Like I always said, CA Sux!
Pix to follow
Ward-o
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Well, this is not a glue problem at all. It is in fact a Waxed Paper problem. When we started to use microwave ovens they started to make waxed paper just a tiny bit porous. It is marked on some packages as being for use in microwave ovens. What you want is old fashioned waxed paper. I use it all of the time for every glue imaginable and there is no issue. Hope this helps.
Kim.
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Well, this is not a glue problem at all. It is in fact a Waxed Paper problem. When we started to use microwave ovens they started to make waxed paper just a tiny bit porous. It is marked on some packages as being for use in microwave ovens. What you want is old fashioned waxed paper. I use it all of the time for every glue imaginable and there is no issue. Hope this helps.
Kim.
I have been wondering whether the paper had changed. Seems I remember the paper having a different feel to it. maybe thicker, maybe waxier or could be a different type of wax. You know like a wax substitute or something. I had no idea of it being more porous. I just remember it feeling different somehow.
So no the question is: Is there a wax paper that is like the old type? I wouldn't care if it weren't microwave safe.
Somehow wax paper in a microwave just doesn't sound right anyway.
Robert
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Wow! We've been "out tech-eed" again...Yes, my Reynolds Cut-Rite states "Microwave without steam build-up"
So where do you get the old style? What brand is it?
Need more info plz
Thanx...
Ward
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Comes the dawn! Now I know why the "waxed paper" I've got doesn't work the way the old stuff did!
Sure hope someone finds a place to get the "good stuff"! I know I'm gonna look.
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Saran Wrap brand,, Saran Wrap brand,,, and dont use pins, use weights
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Another way to use CA without glueing the parts to the paper, bench, etc. is to use sheet plastic such as many parts come in. I use a lot of CA, both thin and gap filling on my guitars and simply put a baggie on like a glove to hold the parts together or to compress a seam. Always lets go. I'm sure there's plastic sheet available that's big enough. But - like Mark says, no pins. Don't try it with vinyl gloves though, it sticks to most brands. I've not tried the other type of gloves, so can't say there.
Will