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Author Topic: Paint Masks  (Read 3155 times)

Offline Randy Powell

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Paint Masks
« on: December 31, 2007, 07:42:29 PM »
Well, historically, I have always used tape or made decals for lettering. Usually worked pretty well. But recently, I had a lot of problems with some decals and decided to try out vinyl masks for lettering. For any of you that haven't tried the, you are really missing the boat. This was just too easy and so far is comming out better than I could have hoped for. They aren't cheap (I just paid the price of a PAMPA subscription for 4 masks). But the quality can't be beat.

I may spring for a vinyl mask cutter. I was looking on eBay and they would pay for themselves in 4 or 5 planes. I suppose I could learn to use CorelDRAW or similar software.

Very cool stuff.

edit

Uh, that's Paint Masks, not Pain Masks. Though it sort of turned out that way.
« Last Edit: January 01, 2008, 12:38:29 PM by Randy Powell »
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Offline Gary Anderson

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Re: Pain Masks
« Reply #1 on: December 31, 2007, 08:38:00 PM »
Hi Randy, have you ever tried plain old contact paper. Some have said it works very well and can be bought at the dollar store. What they told me was to peel about a 1/4 inch, to stick product down, clear coat, then do color coat. Probably not even talking about doing what your doing but if it works, worth trying. Just a dumb question, have a great day and please keep posting pictures, your planes are awesome, Gary
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Offline Randy Powell

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Re: Pain Masks
« Reply #2 on: December 31, 2007, 08:46:29 PM »
Gary,

Yea, I've tried all kinds of stuff. Shelf paper, frisket, a number of other things. They all work, after a fashion. this was just too easy. Went to the sigh shop, gave him the layout and font for the mask. He cut them on his machine (if I get a machine, I could do the same). Slap them down and shoot paint. Took about 15 minutes to set up to paint. That was just too cool.
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Offline Tom Niebuhr

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Re: Pain Masks
« Reply #3 on: January 01, 2008, 12:14:15 AM »
Randy,
I went though the contact paper years ago, Just too much stick.

About 15 years ago  met a sign guy, that loved doing special projects. (Rare indeed!) He got me using the vynal masks and I haven't looked back since.. no nmore hand cutting for most items.

One word of caution. There are two materials sold for making masks.
Make sure that your sign guy uses the one with the lowest tack. This usualy is white in color. The stickier stuff is blue.
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Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: Pain Masks
« Reply #4 on: January 01, 2008, 12:31:19 AM »
Do "Pain Masks" and "Sigh Shop" count as Freudian Slips? Just hadta ask, since Randy is in that  n~ line of work. No offense intended! H^^  LL~ Steve
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Offline John Miller

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Re: Pain Masks
« Reply #5 on: January 01, 2008, 01:31:01 AM »
Do "Pain Masks" and "Sigh Shop" count as Freudian Slips? Just hadta ask, since Randy is in that  n~ line of work. No offense intended! H^^  LL~ Steve

 LL~ ~> ~> ~> #^Naw Steve, Randy and I are in the same group, sharing indolency.  Is that a word?  HB~> HB~>
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Eric Viglione

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Re: Pain Masks
« Reply #6 on: January 01, 2008, 06:46:01 AM »
Yeah, I confess to helping Randy spend his tax refund, sorry about that Randy! E-pray does have some cool stuff now and again, don't it? Heh, but it sure beats waiting on the sign guys or doing it the old school way.
Until I started using low tack vinyl from the sign guys, I'd do in on my old light table that had a removable cutting surface. I'd just print what I wanted on my printer, then put it on the light table with the frisket over it and cut it by hand with a #11. All kidding aside, this method works ok too, but once you try the vinyl, you get spoiled quickly.
See pic.
EricV

Offline Bob Reeves

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Re: Pain Masks
« Reply #7 on: January 01, 2008, 10:19:35 AM »
I bought a small 8 inch Stika cutter, several years ago and it has been worth every penny. I use Contact shelf paper for paint masks and sign vinyl for quick numbers on Monokote. Shelf paper will go through the cutter without the need for an additional backing like frisket requires, seems to have just the right level of sticky and the price can't be beat.

Only problem I have ran into with shelf paper is it isn't stuck to the backing well enough to do real small letters or numbers. If you try to cut too small the letters or design will come loose from the backing. Isn't a problem as long as you stay above about 3/8 inch square letter or design.

Offline Crist Rigotti

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Re: Pain Masks
« Reply #8 on: January 01, 2008, 10:33:49 AM »
I bought a small 8 inch Stika cutter, several years ago and it has been worth every penny. I use Contact shelf paper for paint masks and sign vinyl for quick numbers on Monokote. Shelf paper will go through the cutter without the need for an additional backing like frisket requires, seems to have just the right level of sticky and the price can't be beat.

Only problem I have ran into with shelf paper is it isn't stuck to the backing well enough to do real small letters or numbers. If you try to cut too small the letters or design will come loose from the backing. Isn't a problem as long as you stay above about 3/8 inch square letter or design.

Bob,
Have you tried to cut Super Monokote letters with the Stika cutter?  I'm looking for a place that will cut Monokote letters for me.
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Offline Randy Powell

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Re: Paint Masks
« Reply #9 on: January 01, 2008, 12:43:42 PM »
I found a couple of places on line that sell a bunch of different types of low tack vinyl for various sign making jobs. The price isn't too horrible and some of the stuff will do letting down to a 1/16". If I get my own machine to cut this stuff, I'm sure I can get vinyl to do pretty much whatever I need to.

Here's one place: http://www.breninc.com/matguide.htm

Eric,

Hey, thanks for the tip.
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Offline Will Hinton

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Re: Paint Masks
« Reply #10 on: January 01, 2008, 05:01:45 PM »
Randy,
Thanks for the link - I'm beginning to hate frisket!  Let us know which of their products work out, okay?  And the same pertaining to a cutter if ya would D>K
I just ran the name and AMA numbers off on the computer yesterday for the new twin boomer and am not looking forward to cutting them from the frisket film.  Hurry! #^ #^ #^ #^
Blessings,
Will
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Offline Randy Powell

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Re: Paint Masks
« Reply #11 on: January 01, 2008, 08:52:04 PM »
Will,

Yea, I know what you mean. I've cut a mile of Frisket over the last several years. The thought of getting a vinyl cutter is very appealing.

I shot the second color on the vinyl masks today. Guess we'll see tomorrow what I ended up with.
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Offline Mark Scarborough

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Re: Paint Masks
« Reply #12 on: January 01, 2008, 10:35:28 PM »
Randy
I have been looking into a cutter myself. maybe we should pile resources. I was to get one for my bonus on the last resto job I finished, however the new toolbox he had was more tempting at the moment. Give me a ring if you wanna talk about it.
patiently waiting for picts of the CObra,,,
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Offline Clint Ormosen

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Re: Paint Masks
« Reply #13 on: January 02, 2008, 02:17:17 AM »
Randy, go ahead and buy a vinyl cutter so I can employ you to cut some masks for me! ;D
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Offline Al Rabe

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Re: Paint Masks
« Reply #14 on: January 02, 2008, 08:54:36 AM »
Beginning with the critical Mass, I have been using vinyl appliqués and stencils, more with each new airplane as familiarity with the medium increases.  My usual technique would have been to apply frisket to the airplane, then do the layout and cutting on the airplane.  The prospect of laying out each letter of the left and right side "Critical Mass" graphics was so daunting, I let the airplane sit for two years finished in silver.  I considered using decals but feared they wouldn't appear bright enough when applied over a black background.  I wasn't anxious to try vinyl stencils or appliqués but couldn't see any other way to reproduce the unusual "Critical Mass" graphics with accuracy and precision.  With the Critical Mass, I needed photo realistic, full color logos for the cowling.  I was also concerned with the tapering "Critical Mass" lettering down the side of the fuselage in a very characteristic font.  Finally, I sought help.  A local sign shop was able to produce the cowling logos from a photo that I cleaned up and resized in Photoshop.  These were expensive.  They costs $30 for a full sheet of left and right logos after I provided the artwork, ready to cut, on a CD.
 
Kyle Tankersley did the artwork for the fuselage logos and racing numerals.  He copied enlarged side view photographs and turned these copies into files for cutting vinyl for a reasonable price.  I'm not sure that a sign shop would have even tried to create model size artwork from poor quality photographs, much less done it for a affordable price.  By using Kyle, I was dealing with a modeler who understands airplanes and Corel.  Who knows whether a sign shop technician would have, or could have, done the quality of artwork actually used.  With the data files in hand, I shopped around for someone to cut vinyl for me.  I used Callie Graphics in Albuquerque who produced two sets of everything both in stencils and appliqués.  I don't recall exactly, but I think these were $20.  Faced with the problem of exactly placing the fuselage lettering precisely within the black stripe, I used the appliqués.  I'm glad I ordered extras for that first try.  The first "Critical Mass" didn't position with the precision I wanted.  I had to peel the first "Critical Mass" off, one letter at a time, and replace it.  As you can see, the results are all that could be wished for.

I was completely satisfied with the use of the appliqués used on the Critical Mass, but vinyl appliqués are slightly thicker and heavier than paint.  When decorating the Millennium Cavalier, I decided to try stencils.  At least, that was my first thought.  Faced with major masking for each of the three colors in the national insignia, it was obvious that using appliqués for these insignias would save a great deal of work and have a precise appearance.  National insignia appliqués were available custom sized to fit specific locations.  The rest of the major markings were all painted in yellow using vinyl stencils.  This was my first experience using the stencils,  They turned out to be an easy to apply and resulted in clean sharp lettering.  The stencils had a very nice adhesive tack.  Once applied there was no need for any additional preparation before painting, and they peeled off nicely without threatening to pull my finish.  I was becoming increasingly a fan of laser cut computer graphics.

If you haven't used vinyl appliqués before, here is a word of caution.  National insignia, for example, are commonly built up using a blue vinyl layer, followed by a white layer and then topped with another layer of red bars.  If these layers are each two mills thick, the complete National Insignia will be impossible to bury in a coat of clear.  Better providers of laser graphics would use a blue vinyl background and printed colors for a much thinner appliqué.  Ask before you order.  I used Cajun RC Specialties National Insignia.  They worked well, but were expensive.

Now, I'm decorating my newest airplane, a Saito 91 powered BBFB Bearcat.  This airplane offered the perfect opportunity to save work and produce excellent paint graphics using stencils.  The official Navy paint scheme for the Bearcat was basically all white graphics and lettering on an overall glossy Sea Blue.  Insignia Blue isn't used when painting the national insignia on Navy Sea Blue backgrounds.  Here was an opportunity to do the complete set of graphics with vinyl stencils.  I had templates of the graphics from painting the BBQB and liked the appearance of the markings on that airplane very much.  I took the templates to Kyle and we entered them into a data file.  The markings are the same as the BBQB except that airplane number was changed from "201" to "210".  While we were at it, the edge of the stencils were tailored to provide alignment of the graphics.  For example, the fuselage side stencil had a half circle cutout to fit the leading edge of the stabilizer, and was cut to fit the wing and flap trailing edge with a notch to indicate the desired location of the flap hinge line.  On Kyle's computer it looked like there might be as much as eight square feet of stencils.  I expected these to cost about $20.  Actually,  by the time we had added some extra details such as wheel wells, AMA numbers and red national insignia bars, it finally added up to a total of about fourteen square feet of stencils and cost $40.  I e-mailed Callie the data files on a Thursday and received the box of vinyl two days later on Saturday.  At first blush the price seemed a bit steep, but considering the amount of work saved and the appearance of the resulting paint job, I decided it was worth the cost.

All seems to be proceeding well.  The stencils are in place, the airplane is completely masked and the white will go on today.

Beginning with the Millennium Mustang I have been using laser cut frisket stencils for all of the small lettering on my airplanes.  Kyle can cut a sheet of stencils quite reasonably in any size or font.  A sheet of stencils can have thirty or forty cleanly cut words or phrases.  One simply cuts them out, sticks them on the model, and squirts them with paint.  Like my previous airplanes, the new BBFB will have all of the minor graphics applied using Kyle's frisket stencils.  The photo of frisket graphics is typical but not the exact set I will be using.

I guess it is hard not to appreciate the many ways computers can simplify some of our jobs while improving quality.  Its probably only fitting that an airplane constructed from all laser cut wooden pieces be finished in laser cut graphics.

Al         

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Offline Bob Reeves

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Re: Pain Masks
« Reply #15 on: January 02, 2008, 10:46:50 AM »
Bob,
Have you tried to cut Super Monokote letters with the Stika cutter?  I'm looking for a place that will cut Monokote letters for me.

Boy would I love to be able to cut Monokote... It can be done but would be a real PTA: The problem is whatever material you are cutting needs to be stuck to a heavy paper backing so it will feed and the cutter will cut instead of just moving it around.

In order to cut something like Monokote you would need to remove the protective backing then use some kind of removable adhesive to stick it to heavy paper stock. I haven't figured out a good way to do that...

Offline Randy Powell

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Re: Paint Masks
« Reply #16 on: January 02, 2008, 12:25:28 PM »
Hi Al,

Yea, I was impressed enough that I am considering buying my own vinyl cutter. The one I'm looking at at the moment comes with it's own software, but is compatible with Photoshop, CorelDRAW and The GIMP, so any of those would work too. I can see all kinds of possibilities for using this sort of stencil if I don't have to pay $15-$20 an 8.5x11 sheet. I think it would be cool to mess around with various overlaying stencils to do all kinds of graphic work.

We'll see, I guess.
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Offline Jim Snelson

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Re: Paint Masks
« Reply #17 on: January 02, 2008, 01:50:45 PM »
I have a machine (actually three machines) and do vinyl graphics and spray mask. It takes a little while to learn to use them but I must admit not that hard. I produced the spray mask for Brett Bucks Nats Infinity and the Jess-ter decals (Overlayed vinyl since it was many colors) for Walter Umland and am working on the graphics for the Ringmaster Imperial he is doing now just to name a few. I charge usually charge $1.00 per linear inch of material used. I have been told that they are very cheap compared to many vinyl shops. The material I cut is usually 15" wide giving about 13.5" in width of usable material and any length you may need. I can cut up to 52" wide material in one of my machines.

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