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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Don Jenkins on March 19, 2024, 08:14:54 AM
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I built a plane back in 2017 that flew quite well with a Stalker .61 that I named Vertigo. Unfortunately I only got 65 flights on it and only flew it in one contest before I put it straight in on asphalt. Anyway, I decided to build another Vertigo, this time E-powered and I'm using a foam wing that I've had for about 7 years. I am somewhat reluctant to start a build thread since I sometimes get distracted from the builds for long periods of time, but I'll give it a try. The pics are of the first Vertigo before its first flight and after its last! I did collect and assemble all of the pieces so it would resemble a plane for the final pic.
Don
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I am reusing a 3D printed motor mount from my first electric build (a full size vector) that no longer exists. Yes, I crashed that one too, but at least I got over 4 years out of it and flew it in many contests.
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Motor crutch complete.
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Fuselage construction is a lot easier with this jig that I obtained many years ago from my flying buddy and coach Ed Ruane. Ed has since retired from the hobby and I no longer have a coach, which probably explains why I crash more often!
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The top block is tacked in place for rough shaping before it gets hollowed out and the turtle deck is wrapped around the mold waiting to dry.
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Great looking build, very clean. I look forward to watching this.
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Great looking build, very clean. I look forward to watching this.
Yep, Don builds very nice stuff. y1
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Thanks Keith and Wayne, greatly appreciated.
Don
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The top block is sanded close to its final shape and the turtle deck came out pretty good. The landing gear is salvaged from the Vector, but I still need to remove the paint and ready it for the next paint scheme.
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Carved/sanded the cowl after gluing a bunch of wood together to get the right size for it, and added formers to the turtle deck. I was able to figure out how to attach the cowl with one 440 allen head.
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Time to start on the wing. I obtained an SV foam wing from Randy Smith about 6 or 7 years ago and decided to use it for this build. I've only built one plane with a foam wing, and it sure does cut down on build time. I sanded the trailing edge with a 3 foot sanding bar to ensure it was true, sanded the center sections for a squared fit, installed the controls and epoxied the 2 wing haves together. Seems like it came out straight!?
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I used 2 ounce glass cloth and 30 minute epoxy on the center section and cut the flaps from a decent light weight piece of 3/8. I ordered some wood for this build from National Balsa requesting "Aero Light", and although pricey, it was good quality.
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Wing tips are next. I glued a stack of balsa together (tack glue the center) and sand to rough shape with 80 grit on a sanding bar. I leave about a 1/16 inch larger than the wing, then split them in halve which makes hollowing them out easier. Install the slider and weight box then glue them to the wing. Then sand to final shape. I keep my vacuum close at hand while sanding that much balsa.
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Rough sanding complete.
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I took this photo before final sanding and cleaning up the inside of the tips. I was able to remove a bit more wood to save a few more grams of weight.
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I took this photo before final sanding and cleaning up the inside of the tips. I was able to remove a bit more wood to save a few more grams of weight.
ARE YOU GOING TO TAPER THE FLAPS OR LEAVE THEM FLAT
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I glued the wing tips in place and did a final sanding. The flaps have been tapered to 1/8 inch using the standard brass tube and sanding bar method. I leave the trailing edge squared off. I also made up the horn clips from 1/8 inch ply with 1/64 inch ply on the outside. I use the Dubro hinge slotting tool and Dubro hinges.
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Better view of trailing edge of flaps and horn clips.
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I made an adjustable trim tab for the outboard wing for function and one on the inboard wing to look uniformed. I will epoxy them into place with three 1/16 inch brass tubes after all paint work and polishing is completed. I capped the flap ends and trim tab ends with 1/64 inch ply to keep the gap nice and clean.
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I started on the stabilizer and elevators which will be half inch. The stab is framed with 3/8 inch with 1/16 inch ribs and sheeting, the elevators will be tapered to 1/8 inch with the brass tube and sanding bar method.
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Elevators are sanded and hinged to stab. I need to shape the leading edge of the stab and make up the horn clips.
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I took this photo before final sanding and cleaning up the inside of the tips. I was able to remove a bit more wood to save a few more grams of weight.
Don; I have a question: Why did you hollow out the outboard wing tip when you are going to add weight anyway? HB~>
Just asking, Jerry
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Good question Gerald. I'm trying to reduce the weight of the plane as much as possible with a target weight around 64 ounces with a dope finish, including tip weight. Most of my planes need about .5 to .75 ounces of tip weight. It would be really bad if a solid balsa tip, (and there is a good chunk of wood in a two inch wide wing tip) added more weight than needed, then there is nothing that can be done to reduce tip weight. Just my thoughts.
Don
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It would be really bad if a solid balsa tip, (and there is a good chunk of wood in a two inch wide wing tip) added more weight than needed, then there is nothing that can be done to reduce tip weight. Just my thoughts.
Yep.
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I completed sanding and shaping the stabilizer/elevators and did a final sanding on the wing. I used a simple sanding jig to get a round uniformed and blunt leading edge on the wing.
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Leading edge sanding jig.
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After a crazy amount of measurements, I tacked glued the wing in place with CA. Once I verified it was straight, I applied 30 minute epoxy with a glue syringe inside and out. I placed the top block and turtle deck in place just for the pic. I won't glue them on until I have the bottom of the fuselage completed.
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Got the controls installed and adjusted and glued the stabilizer on. Now I'll start working on the bottom of the fuselage. I'm using light weight 1/4 inch sheeting on the fuselage bottom and I need to make an access hatch for the active timer along with some air outlet openings, and the tail wheel mount.
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Top block and turtle deck just resting in place for pic.
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Looking good. What timer are you using? Crist Rigotti designed a really cool mounting plate for accelerometer pad. I used it on Endgame III through one of the cooling outlets. I thought I had a picture but I don't. If you are interested I will take a pix Monday and post it here.
Ken
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Thanks Ken. I'm using Igor's active timer with the spin 66 ESC. I glued a piece of 1/8 inch ply parallel to the thrust line under the wing for the timer. I'll make an access hatch to get to it. Sure I'd like to see the pic of the mounting pad. Thanks.
Don
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I sheeted the bottom of the fuselage, and did a rough sanding to shape.
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I spent a lot of time making the timer access hatch fit using 1/64 inch ply on all the mating surfaces. It keeps the edges sharp and clean and protects them from getting dinged up at the field.
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Timer access hatch.
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I also used 1/64 inch ply on the landing gear mount and cover.
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Landing gear cover. I like using 1/4 inch brass tubing for all mounting bolt holes. It keeps the hole from getting damaged from repeated use, and it looks clean.
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I used 1/64 inch ply on the cowl mating surfaces and did some more sanding inside the fuselage and cowl.
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Cowl fit came out pretty good.
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Access hatch for adjustable elevator horn and adjustable push rod, and a simple plywood tail wheel mount. I like having a removable tailwheel, it's easier to sand, paint and polish the bottom, and the plane sits flat on the building surface while working on it with the landing gear removed.
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Looking Really Good. I know what it is like to do a build thread and not get any feedback. So here is some FEEDBACK.
I told you I would post pix of the accelerator pad then I didn't. So Now I am!
I think you could still make something like this work. If it does praise Crist Rigotti, I stole if from him!
Ken
I was not too concerned with weight. On Endgame IV I am using CF Plate, 2/56 bolts and medium fuel tubing for the spacers. The springs didn't work out and I replaced them with squishable washers. Once you get the plane level on both axis it takes about 2 min to set the timer on the Fiorotti. Not sure if Igor's displays the angles but it still beats shims if you have to adjust.
Ken
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Thanks Ken. I've only used Igor's timer on 2 ARF SV-11s and I just stuck them to the bottom of the fuselage with tape which was not parallel to the thrust line. This made the plane fly at a different speed inverted (.2 seconds difference) so I did have to shim it. I hopefully have the mounting pad on this build in the exact orientation that's needed.
Don
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This is my last William's Brothers military pilot in my inventory. After gluing the figure together I cut off the head and glued it back on turned to the side. Someone once told me that Al Rabe came up with this. When I'm in the mood (not sure when that will be) I'll do some painting.
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Back on the timer. Fiorotti measures both the thrust line angle and the wings level angle. Before I knew this I used an adjustable pad made from a hinge with a balsa tab and one adjustment screw. Let me field adjust lap times through a hole in the bottom hatch. My bottom hatched are a bit aggressive, back of motor to wing centerline. 6 screws so I don't like taking it off! Just a thought. Love the pilot.
Ken
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I glued the top block and turtle deck in place and glued in a piece of 1/8 inch balsa for the cockpit floor.
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I also got around to removing the paint from the landing gear and wheel pants.
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Don,
Is this an original design?
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Someone once told me that Al Rabe came up with this.
It was so he could stare down the judges as the plane came around. LL~
Ken
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Don,
Is this an original design?
I drew up the original set of plans in September of 2016 for use with a Stalker .61 with a built up wing that was 60 inches. I did make a foam mold for the turtle deck which deviated from the original plan for a built up turtle deck. This version is using a foam wing that measures 62 inches. I also made the nose 1/2 inch longer on this version for more room to move the battery around for CG.
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I cut down a SIG 9 inch WWII canopy that already fits nicely. I'll sand in a groove for gluing it after I get the plane covered with silk span. I also glued pieces of balsa to each side of the cock pit and blended them into the top block.
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Really beautiful work, Don. Thanks for doing a build thread on it!
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I drew up the original set of plans in September of 2016 for use with a Stalker .61 with a built up wing that was 60 inches.
Thanks Don, carry on! :)
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Thank you Al and Wayne for the kind words. I really got the "building bug" and I'm getting out to the shop several hours a day almost every day. I tack glued the rear top block and got it rough sanded. I use a lot of masking tape while sanding to protect surrounding areas. I'll remove it and hollow it then once back in place do a final sanding.
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Sanding complete on the rear top block. I used a piece of 1/4 inch masking tape to keep the area for gluing the fin/rudder straight and flat.
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The fin/rudder is complete. I used incredibly hard 1/4 inch balsa that I thought I would never use, and sanded in an airfoil. I don't plan on gluing it on until everything is covered with silk span. On previous builds, I've dinged up the rudder quite a bit while flipping the plane over many times while doping, putting on silk span and sanding. Might save a headache?
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I also made up the lead outs and did a good sanding on the entire plane. I used sheet rock joint compound to fill in all the minor dings and flaws. It works pretty good on bare balsa, but once dope goes on I use glaze putty. Next I'll start working on cockpit details and applying dope. I also need to make the fillet pieces for flaps and elevators which won't get glued on until after silk span is done.
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I installed the motor for these pics and found that I needed to sand a bit more on the inside of the top block to allow clearance for the motor.
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I started on cockpit details. Nothing fancy or scale-like, just a seat back, headrest and instrument panel. The instrument panel is 1/32 inch ply and I made the 1/4 inch holes with a Dremel bit. I'll paint it flat black and use J-Tech gages glued to the back.
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I made the headrest by attaching a rounded piece of 3/8 inch balsa to a threaded Dremel bit and used it as a mini lathe against a sanding bar with 180 grit paper. The seat back was sanded from a piece of 1/4 inch balsa.
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After some dope, primer and sanding, each piece will be painted flat black and glued in after painting the cockpit area flat black. I use Testor's flat spray enamel for plastic models. It works pretty good for this purpose.
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After some dope, primer and sanding, each piece will be painted flat black and glued in after painting the cockpit area flat black. I use Testor's flat enamel for plastic models. It works pretty good for this purpose.
Don:
I ran across these looking for paints I could mix for cockpit, etc. They are water based acrylic, cheap and come in a zillion colors.
https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Craft-Paint-Stencils/Acrylic-Craft-Paints/Crafter-s-Collection-Acrylic-Craft-Paint/p/533
A plane is not a plane without a cockpit ! What is cool about these colors is that they are very thick, intended for mixing. I will be going over this color on mine with a cockpit gray then rubbing it some to give the worn look with the zinc chromate base.
I really like what you are doing, keep it up!
ken
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Very nice Ken! You have way more patients than me when it comes to the cockpit! I have been using water based paint for my pilot, should finish him up today.
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Don,
Appreciate your taking the time to post a very comprehensive thread. The photos and
captions were excellent. The workmanship and engineering were pretty darn nice as well.
Good job.
Cheers.
Warren Wagner
Bradenton, FL
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Thank you Warren, very kind of you. Here is the paint scheme I plan on using. I drew this up for my Dreadnought a few years back but never used it. I will use all Randolph dope.
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Great thread.
Love the finish scheme.
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Great thread.
Love the finish scheme.
Thanks Jeremy. How does that Brodak SV-11 fly?
Don
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I got my shipment of dope from Aircraft Spruce and 4 rolls of medium silk span from Easy Built Models. While I was waiting for materials I cleaned my shop, which included painting the walls and base boards, which were covered with overspray from previous builds. I also painted the pilot! Now back to work on Vertigo II!
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I brushed 3 coats of non-tautening butyrate clear (thinned 50%) on the plane and all parts. I also sanded lightly between each coat with 320 grit paper. Now the fun starts with applying silk span.
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Applied silk span to some parts by wetting with a spray bottle, lay it on the part and brush on dope. Then rub with finger to get good adhesion.
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Sanded the edges to remove the excess silk span with 320 grit paper and then brushed on another coat of clear. I'll put on a total of 3 coats of 50% thinned clear before spraying with primer.
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I got distracted from the build for a while to do yard work and refinish my front door (honey do list). Anyway I got some time to get into the shop and I finished applying silk span to the plane and all parts. I also brushed on 3 coats of dope and sanded each coat with 320 grit paper.
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I'll epoxy the rudder in place next and use Super-Fil to make a fillet before I glue on the balsa fillet pieces for the stab/elevators that I still need to make.
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I did get the cockpit pieces prepped and painted. I decided to make a 1/64 inch ply cockpit floor instead of trying to get the balsa cockpit floor prepared for paint. It was easier and used a lot less material to finish. I'll complete the instrument panel with J-Tech gages.
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I made the fillet pieces for the flaps. I sanded a piece of 1/2 inch balsa with the tube and sanding bar method to an 1/8 inch taper.
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Then sanded a little at a time until I got a really nice fit between the flap and fuselage, then capped the ends with 1/64 inch ply.
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Then sanded a little at a time until I got a really nice fit between the flap and fuselage, then capped the ends with 1/64 inch ply.
Not too many people use wing flap fillets anymore. I have no idea why. They really help reduce tail flexing.
Nice - Ken
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I TACK GLUE THE FILLET TO THE FLAP AND SAND TO MATCH THE FLAP...PUT SOME MASKING TAPE ON THE FLAP SO YOU DONT SAND THE FLAP
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I TACK GLUE THE FILLET TO THE FLAP AND SAND TO MATCH THE FLAP...PUT SOME MASKING TAPE ON THE FLAP SO YOU DONT SAND THE FLAP
That would certainly work, except in my case the trailing edge of the wing is 1/2 inch thick and the flaps are 3/8 inch. That's the Randy Smith SV design. So my fillets are slightly larger than the flap all the way to the trailing edge.
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I did cover the fillets with silk span before gluing into place.
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I used Super-Fil for the tail fillet. I applied with a glue syringe then wipe with my finger wet with alcohol. On the vertical flat section I used a piece of 1/32 inch ply wet with alcohol. This makes the Super-Fil really smooth and it cuts down on sanding once cured.
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I use Super-Fil for the tail fillet. I applied with a glue syringe then wipe with my finger wet with alcohol. On the vertical flat section I used a piece of 1/32 inch ply wet with alcohol. This makes the Super-Fil really smooth and it cuts down on sanding once cured.
That's the way aha-aha, we like it aha-aha... y1
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That's the way aha-aha, we like it aha-aha... y1
YEP!!!
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A light sanding on the Super-Fil with a brass rod wrapped in 220 grit paper then a second sanding with 320 and its ready for primer.