If you can get a wrench or nut driver on it, just give it a twist and I think you'll see it flake right off. It's just supposed to resist vibration, not directly applied torque. It's a cheap, Chinese substitute so don't expect a lot from it.

   The adjustable lead outs will be a challenge just from what I have seen on the two I have messed with. They got a LOT of extra wood that isn't in a kit or plans built model that you will have to deal with. The tip eight box might be the same but you could prefabricate the box, then cut into the bottom sheeting right up against the tip rib and the spar and see how that will work. I really haven't had to deal with tip weight  on either.

  i put in some custom fitted 3/8" thick balsa with the grain running across the fuselage in between the engine mount beams to tie those together and it also gives you a real floor to support a tank. Make a top block for the front of the engine mounts to tie them together there and run it up against the firewall, after you have gotten your engine fitted and mounting hardware installed. I put a short length of 3/8" balsa between the bearers at that point also, and then you can work on gussets for the bottom. Everything gets coated with thinned epoxy when finished.
   
  You are on the right track with everything else.

  Type at you later,
  Dan  McEntee

You’re right on with the soldering iron idea to soften the glue on the bellcrank nut.
It works well.
Have fun with your Nobler!

     Sorry to take so long to reply. I'm on the road visiting my son and granddaughter in Colorado Springs, and it's been a pretty busy visit!! Things are just now settling down to a mild roar so we can rest up for the drive back home.!! I hate using my phone for this stuff and just finally got my lap top out and hooked up.

     Modifying the tip for adjustable lead outs is definitely worth the trouble, and I would not omit that step.  I would imagine most of these will benefit from some adjustment. I think it depends on the weight of the power plant that you choose and how accurate you install the wing. On the two examples I have, I was not the person that started the assembly on them. They are assembled close enough to fly for fun as a beater model. As I mentioned, I retrofitted all the usual nose upgrades and improvements, but they could have been better if I had been assembling the airplane from the start.. I think adding the re-enforcements and supports is critical to having an airplane that might last a fair amount of time. When it came to the lead outs, I just decided to hold off and see how they flew.

     The first one really needed the lead outs moved forward. I cut away the covering off the tip and found all sorts of wood glued in the hold the guide tubes in place and some other stuff I couldn't explain but to put in a slider type lead out guide would require a lot of rework and cutting stuff out. . Being the lazy sort that I am, I saw that I could just move the read guide forward to within about 3/4" of the front one. I hung the airplane by the lead outs to check it and this improved things a lot and the first flights were much better. I left that airplane as it was and started work on the second one

     The second model wasn't quite as bad but i decided to move the rear guide tube forward like I did on the first one anyway. When I cut the tip covering away, the structure on the tip of this airplane was different from the first one, more bits of wood added to anchor things down, and I couldn't easily move the tube like I could on the first one. It's kind of hard to describe, but I think I need to remove the covering from the next two rib bays to get to what needs to be cut out and altered, and I just haven't felt like doing that as yet. If I get around to assembling one from the beginning, I'll probably strip the covering completely and start from scratch if I have enough covering material. I think it all can be done much better than what I have and the final result will be a much better flying model that will last longer.

  Type at you later,
     Dan McEntee

     Sorry to take so long to reply. I'm on the road visiting my son and granddaughter in Colorado Springs, and it's been a pretty busy visit!! Things are just now settling down to a mild roar so we can rest up for the drive back home.!! I hate using my phone for this stuff and just finally got my lap top out and hooked up.

     Modifying the tip for adjustable lead outs is definitely worth the trouble, and I would not omit that step.  I would imagine most of these will benefit from some adjustment. I think it depends on the weight of the power plant that you choose and how accurate you install the wing. On the two examples I have, I was not the person that started the assembly on them. They are assembled close enough to fly for fun as a beater model. As I mentioned, I retrofitted all the usual nose upgrades and improvements, but they could have been better if I had been assembling the airplane from the start.. I think adding the re-enforcements and supports is critical to having an airplane that might last a fair amount of time. When it came to the lead outs, I just decided to hold off and see how they flew.

     The first one really needed the lead outs moved forward. I cut away the covering off the tip and found all sorts of wood glued in the hold the guide tubes in place and some other stuff I couldn't explain but to put in a slider type lead out guide would require a lot of rework and cutting stuff out. . Being the lazy sort that I am, I saw that I could just move the read guide forward to within about 3/4" of the front one. I hung the airplane by the lead outs to check it and this improved things a lot and the first flights were much better. I left that airplane as it was and started work on the second one

     The second model wasn't quite as bad but i decided to move the rear guide tube forward like I did on the first one anyway. When I cut the tip covering away, the structure on the tip of this airplane was different from the first one, more bits of wood added to anchor things down, and I couldn't easily move the tube like I could on the first one. It's kind of hard to describe, but I think I need to remove the covering from the next two rib bays to get to what needs to be cut out and altered, and I just haven't felt like doing that as yet. If I get around to assembling one from the beginning, I'll probably strip the covering completely and start from scratch if I have enough covering material. I think it all can be done much better than what I have and the final result will be a much better flying model that will last longer.

  Type at you later,
     Dan McEntee

Thx Dan

I'm heading in the direction of removing all the wing covering to accomplish the mods.

I acquired the Nobler ARF kit for $50 and don't know how old it is. I had another old Shoestring model I acquired that had whateverkote and the outer wing lower covering ripped off mid-air on the 3rd flight. Weakened old glue due to age I assumed. So, I will do new iron-on plus it should help with making the wing mods easier to accomplish.

Plus, there is an expected 3/4 oz lead weight on the outer wing tip that will have to be removed and replaced with the new weight box. So, a lot of wing-related work.

Simple is just not in my DNA but here goes.  I grabbed a set of Green Box plans from Outerzone.  You will see a red line where I have marked the CG from the plans.  The picture of the framed tip is from my Endgame IV.  I think that should be enough to give you the idea.  Build the tip shape with strips leaving a hole in the center then glue in the slider and frame around it.  You should be able to match the "ribs" in the tip and make it look just like the other tip with a bulge in the middle where the leadouts come out.  The picture of my ARF tip is before I converted it to electric and what is interesting is that even though they are adjustable nearly an inch in either direction they ended up almost exactly where the fixed leadouts were, just closer together which counts.  When I build my slider mounts I print out a scale and glue it to the frame.  I put the "0" on the place I select for starting setting.

(A) is the area you need to cut out of the existing tip.
(B) is the approximate length of the spar cutout you will need.
(C) is a rough sketch of what it will look like before you put the ribs back.

If you are changing controls, which you said you were, I recommend you either use a 4" bellcrank or move the 3" forward a 1/2".  You need the spar clearance for the fwd. leadout if you move the loadouts back.  When you get it all mounted make sure the leadouts clear everything with the slider full forward and full aft with full up and full down at both extremes.

PLAN "B"

Use the method Gieseke used on his Nobler(s) and most of the Bears running loose in Dallas.  A 1" long gromet and a tight fit in a series of holes in the tip.  Probably easier than a slider.  Good luck - ken

Thank you Ken, much appreciated.

I will be using a Brodak slider-type lead out guide. The 2 holes for the lead outs are close together at 3/4" spacing which is good. Concerning the adjustment length range at the wing tip, I already have a good idea of where the CG needs to be based on the Nobler ARF I already have. It is basically the same as the CG location shown on the original Nobler plan. Then the centerline of the lead outs placed at say 3/4" behind the CG point will be a good starting point for the center of the lead out guide location. Then be able to adjust the lead outs 1" north or south of this point. The Brodak guide has a full adjustment range of 2-1/8".