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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Randy Powell on April 10, 2006, 02:13:46 PM
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I've used 3M fine line vinyl tape for years and have never had much problem with it. But lately, I've been having some adhesion problems, particularly around inside curves. It seems the adhesive just doesn't stick as well as it used to. It sometimes takes several hours to tape out a complicated trim scheme. I've noticed when I go back to mask, that some of the inside corners have wrinkled or pulled away necessitating that those areas be redone. I've never had this problem with this product before.
Anyone else seen this and do you know of a replacement?
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Randy,
Hmmmm, did we not share this before? seems I was on that end then :'(
Since that me listen you show me I have shared some emails with others and also with 3M and there seem to be 3 areas of concern to address; a) make sure surface is dust and grease free [dampened cloth containing wax and grease remover] b] old tape, past it's shelf life will pull free from surface as the adhesive has become unstable. 3) Over stretching of tape [ I'm pretty sure you don't do this as you are the one that clued me in]
Question: is it possible that the room/surfaces temp is making the tape cranky? After you explaining to me the wonders of using a hair dryer I have gotten good results, [for a rookie that is]
Marv
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If the tape is older than a few months or if it has set on the shelf for a while,
or been exposed to low temps <below freezing> It wont stick as well.
The only thing you can do is to try and not stretch the tape going around the corners , or tape the straight lines and come back and do the corners.
You may have to burnish all the corners after masking immediately prior to painting.
You can also use the old trick of spraying a light coat of clear prior to spraying the color.
LOL
Busby
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Marv,
I talked to the autopaint shop I buy this stuff at and though they deny it ( :) ), I suspect it was a shelf life issue. I ended up taking just regular, old vinyl electrical tape, cutting thin strips (like 3/32") and using that around corners. Works very well. Shot another color on the plane last night with all the curves done with strips of the black electrical tape and it is probably the cleanest trim shot I've ever done. Virtually no clearup required. And electrical tape is considerably cheaper than the 3M blue line stuff (I bought a 60 yard roll last night for $1.65 at the grocery store).
As I've said before, it helps to use a piece of medium hard balsa to run down the tape to insure it's stuck, especially where to pieces of tape come together. This is the most likely spot for leaks and such.
BTW, Marv, the Toad now has 3 colors. Red is next. ;D
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I try to plan my life (being retired ;D) so that I can mask and spray on the same day. I have a burnishing tool and use it.
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I just used 3M blue vinyl 1/8th" tape to mask for ink work. OUCH! It bled under. >:D
Of course on top of the stab! :o >:D
It is old tape, I should have known better.
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Bill,
With the new plane, I'm using Dee Rice's method. Slap down 3 or 4 layers of electrical tape on some glass, cut 1/4" strips at an angle to give some overhang, the lay that down (ith the overhang on top leaving the lower layers away from the ink tip) to use as a guide for inking. Works pretty well if you are careful.
On the 3M tape: I've learned not to use it on tight (even mildly tight) corners. I use frisket, some sheet adhesive vinyl I have or electrical tape and cut it out to the shape of the curve. It just solves the problem and I don't have to worry about the crummy 3M tape pulling away. As I noted, I suspect that this is an age issue. The sticky side just isn't that sticky anymore. I'll try to find another source for the stuff and try again at some point, but for now, the current method seems to be working out OK.
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Bill,
With the new plane, I'm using Dee Rice's method. Slap down 3 or 4 layers of electrical tape on some glass, cut 1/4" strips at an angle to give some overhang, the lay that down (ith the overhang on top leaving the lower layers away from the ink tip) to use as a guide for inking. Works pretty well if you are careful.
On the 3M tape: I've learned not to use it on tight (even mildly tight) corners. I use frisket, some sheet adhesive vinyl I have or electrical tape and cut it out to the shape of the curve. It just solves the problem and I don't have to worry about the crummy 3M tape pulling away. As I noted, I suspect that this is an age issue. The sticky side just isn't that sticky anymore. I'll try to find another source for the stuff and try again at some point, but for now, the current method seems to be working out OK.
Hi Randy,
Thanks for reminding me of the De Rice method!
This my Vulcan with the paint job from H@!! %^
I used to much retarder and it ate all the way to the silkspan. It wasn't cured engough when I first taped it off and I had nic 1/8th inch "holes' hwere the silkspan was showing all along the tape line. j1
I fixed that, and started again...... next time same thing but less......... now I am inking the black striping to reduce pull up. Too lazy, and mean, to strip it!
This will be a "15 foot" finish! But it shold fly GREAT!!!! mid-upper 30's w/AT 36!
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Hi Randy,
The 3M Electrical tape aslo comes in widths of 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 1 & 2 inch tape and is available in about 12 colors, which helps out when trying to decide a trim color.
Check your local electrical sales distributor.
FYI: Love the PA40 I got from you last year, it's a beast!
Mike Clark.
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Mike,
Like I said, it's a good eninge. Glad you like it. I picked up a PA 40 Merlin that I really like. Randy make great enignes.
Nice note on the various widths of electrical tape. Seems to work OK. I ended up using a combination of electrical tape cut in 3/32" strips, frisket paper and some vinyl adhesive paper make by an office supply firm (don't remember the name at the moment). Next time, no 3M fine line tape on anything that resembles a tight corner. Taht's much is certain.
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Ty,
I sure found it frustrating. Well, on to other methods, I guess.