Next, insert the faced toothpick through from the top and then use something hard and flat to set it flush with the surface. I just use an old scrap piece of L/G block. After you have it properly set then add a drop of CA, wait a few seconds, and give the excess a quick wipe...

 Lastly, give each pin a quick spot sanding to make sure everything is flush with the surface. This will take almost nothing if everything has been done carefully up to this point. Then, finish again with the CA and wipe routine.
 
 After that give each pin a spot of red putty, let cure and sand to finish. Once the hinges are finished and pinned in this fashion they will never pull out. If for some unforeseen reason they ever do, I'd expect you to have a much larger problem, likely related to gravity, which caused it. 

   I would also suggest that you cut all the pins out, and replace them with a single pin (.028 or .032 music wire), so you can finish around the hinge line with the flaps/elevators removed.   It also makes repairs and modifications much easier - I would have had to withdraw from the 2006 NATS otherwise. Of course, you need to do that before you permanently attach the leaves of the hinge.

     Brett

 I know that's the preferred method for some, and that's fine, just showing my normal routine above. If one is going after a twenty point finish at the NATS, or has another reason for a preferred routine, then to each his own.
 
 Other than applying final color I do 99% of my finish work and prep before the hinges get put in. When the time comes on this model I'll go around first with the airbrush and spray final color in all of the nooks and crannies and tight areas. Then I'll come back with the gun and finish going over the entire model. For me, it's easier to minimize the total amount of final finish (weight) doing it that way. As long as one doesn't go crazy with adding gobs of color and clear during these final steps having the hinges already in place has not been a problem and works fine. Myself, I've never had a reason to remove any control surfaces once a model has been finished. An obvious concern with my described routine would be ending up with sticky hinges after finishing but I've never had a problem with that either. One of the main tricks with all of it is just being patient and carefully watching details throughout the process.

Thanks for the tip Bird, I also do it same as you but never thought of the toe nail clippers. I usually use small diagnol pliers but the clippers will get a closer cut.