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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: jim gilmore on November 10, 2010, 11:08:12 AM
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Is there any ink or pens that would work to use on paper then iron it to plywood ? Or do you have a better idea than carbon paper ?
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I do one of the following:
- Plot things out onto sheet with a ruler and compass
- Slip the sheet under the plan and poke pins through (for complex curves)
- Make a copy of the strategic bits of the plan and rubber cement them to the wood, cut things out, then peel off the paper bits
Folks who etch their own printed circuit boards know that laser printer toner will transfer to a circuit board with an iron. It generally sticks the paper to the board, but that can be dealt with. You could maybe do the same thing with your plywood.
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Photocopier toner will release from the paper when heated! Make a copy of the part then just iron on the wood.
Cheers
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I prefer to photocopy the plan then cut up the copy into templates. Where needed, I just use spray glue to attach it to the wood. Has the advantage that you can just peel it off when you're done.
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I use the spray glue and stick to the wood idea. It works great. Make sure you spray the paper with a very light coat, its all you will need. When you peel the paper off, the glue comes off with it. Works really great. H^^
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I guess the first trick is to print out a second copy of the plans. ok.....
I guess ink jet ink will not work as well as laser...
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Inkjet won't work at all, and it runs and smears when you spill your beer on it! LL~ Laser print, or photocopy are the only ones that will release with heat. I use 3M photomount spray glue, sticking the cut out part to the wood, like the others do, but then I'm fortunate in having my own Xerox plan copier!.
Cheers Neville
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I just take my Cad drafted plans,, rearrange all the parts appropriately, send the files off to Pat, who then sends me back perfectly cut pieces,, not sure what all the fuss is about? D>K
VD~
Oh thats right, Randy still uses a pencil,, which SURELY must be contributing to global warming some how,, either in manufacture of hte pencil itself, or when you sharpen it, the carbon dust floats up into the stratosphere,, yeah thats it,, and then dont forget about all the erasur shavings when you have to correct things,,
yep, I am "green" designing,, LL~
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When I'm too broke, or cheap, to have the parts laser cut, hhere's how I do it. http://www.cadclassics.net/tutorials.html
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Inkjet won't work at all
For the iron-on trick, but work's fine for the glue-on, trace-on, etc.
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Inkjet won't work at all, and it runs and smears when you spill your beer on it! LL~ Laser print, or photocopy are the only ones that will release with heat. I use 3M photomount spray glue, sticking the cut out part to the wood, like the others do, but then I'm fortunate in having my own Xerox plan copier!.
Cheers Neville
funny never had that problem with epson .
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I trace and cut my parts from a good tracing paper. I pin them to the wood then dust them with paint from an aerosol can. Generally a dark color, but I have used a bright megenta kinda like a day-glo. Remove the tracing paper and there's your outline.
I know of no one else that does it this way?
I have some paper parts with the overspray if anyone needs photos?
I just dug out my F3F-1 in stages, I'm working on it again, and found my templates with the overspray.
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I use freezer paper - local grocery. Trace through the paper or glue a copy of the part on it. Cut it out and using a covering iron. you can fasten it to the wood. After cutting the part out, the paper can be removed from the wood with no residue.
Paul
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Anybody try T shirt transfer paper for transferring part patterns to wood yet? One of the plan sites that has rubber power plans among their offering recommends it for transferring full color parts onto balsa wood for reproductions of some of the old Frog and Top Flite kits, but it kind of seems to me that it should be able to be used for parts outlines. For their application, one either prints the parts direct onto the sheet, then irons the pattern down, or sometimes the original file needs to be mirrored to allow for reversals of the characters
I have a pack, but haven't tried it. You run a sheet through any kind of printer, then iron onto the balsa sheet, and can then cut out the parts Only two problems I can see, it comes in 8 1/2 X 11 inch sheets, so you might have to do some editing to bet a best fit with least waste, and since it is intended to transfer pictures onto cloth, it strike me that it would be like putting a large sheet decal onto the wood, with attendent need to remove the film somehow after cutting the pieces out. Or maybe not. And the packs I bought are 10-packs at something close to a dollar per sheet.
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A "little" late, but the glue sticks kids use works good for gluing the templates to the wood. Even good old rubber cement, plus I like rolling the rubber cement up into little balls when removing it! LL~ (also use rubber cement sometimes to attach painting stencils to wings, etc...)
My vote is laser cut parts from guys like Pat J. and Walter U.! ;D
Big Bear
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Even good old rubber cement, plus I like rolling the rubber cement up into little balls when removing it!
Trying it, HEY!!! You can't tell this from boogers! Wait... a minute...
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Even good old rubber cement, plus I like rolling the rubber cement up into little balls when removing it!
Trying it, HEY!!! You can't tell this from boogers! Wait... a minute...
Hi Mike,
It does work, Bob Hunt told me 20 or so years ago about using typing paper and rubber cement to make graphics stencils for painting. I did, and it worked fine. Old technology, but then........ ;D
(don't eat hose little rolled up "balls"! LL~ LL~ LL~ )