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Author Topic: Cloth Hinging  (Read 1294 times)

Offline Jerry Bohn

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Cloth Hinging
« on: April 07, 2007, 07:02:10 PM »
I plan on trying cloth hinges on flaps for the first time. I have done them on stab/elev, but never did it after putting on tissue or using Ultracoate before.
Could someone tell me the proceedure?
Do you put on the cloth hinges before or after applying tissue to the surfaces?
How is it done when using Ultracote?
I plan on using Ultracote on the wing and tissue on the stab/elev.
Jerry Bohn

Offline wmiii

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Re: Cloth Hinging
« Reply #1 on: April 07, 2007, 07:28:13 PM »
 I've always put them on before the covering. But then I always used silk or silkspan.

 Walter
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Offline Bill Little

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Re: Cloth Hinging
« Reply #2 on: April 07, 2007, 07:29:45 PM »
I plan on trying cloth hinges on flaps for the first time. I have done them on stab/elev, but never did it after putting on tissue or using Ultracoate before.
Could someone tell me the proceedure?
Do you put on the cloth hinges before or after applying tissue to the surfaces?
How is it done when using Ultracote?
I plan on using Ultracote on the wing and tissue on the stab/elev.

Hi Jerry,

I have never used cloth hinges under any iron on so I can't help you there. :(

I have used cloth hinges on many planes covered with silkspan or Polyspan, though!

Apply the hinges first, then cover over them.  I use one piece to cover the stab and elevators, and one piece to cover the wing panel and flaps.  Then I cut the silkspan at the hinge line and dope that down into the crack (hingeline) after the silkspan has dried..  Just be careful with the razor blade and don't cut the hinges! :)  After you have doped everything down to you liking, and you're ready for color, double up some 220 sandpaper and sand the crack with the control surfaces deflected to remove any fuzzies, etc.

Bill <><
Big Bear <><

Aberdeen, NC

James Hylton Motorsports/NASCAR/ARCA

AMA 95351 (got one of my old numbers back! ;D )

Trying to get by

Offline minnesotamodeler

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Re: Cloth Hinging
« Reply #3 on: April 07, 2007, 08:33:53 PM »


I've used cloth hinges a lot, although I sew most of mine now, but seems like the hinges pretty much have to go on first regardless of what kind of covering you use...you want them attached directly to the control surfaces.

Someone has described making hinges out of Monokote strips reversed on themselves and ironed on in the same configuration you'd use with cloth.  However, I have no idea who it was, nor how it was done, so that's less than no help.

--Ray
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Offline Jerry Bohn

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Re: Cloth Hinging
« Reply #4 on: April 07, 2007, 09:06:03 PM »
OK, Now I understand the method when covering wing or stab/elev with tissue or silkspan.
Really can't see how it could be done with cloth hinges and film, especially with hinging full length of hinge line.
Guess for what I'm doing at the present I'll stick with Film and Kleet's on the flap.
Pehaps go back to using  silkspan or poly on wing of next plane.
Must have got lazy over the past few years since dicovering how well Ultracote works.
Thanks for the info.
Jerry
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Offline Glen Wearden

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Re: Cloth Hinging
« Reply #5 on: April 08, 2007, 03:50:40 PM »
Don't know if this is the right way to do it, but I used cloth hinges on the stab/elevator of a Twister, and covered it with monokote this way.  First, I covered the elevator on both sides right up to the hinge line, but not down into the leading edge.  Then, I cut a 1" wide strip the length of the hinge line, laid it along the hinge line and stuck it to the film on the elevator with about a 3/8" overlap.  Then, I flexed the elevator down as far as I could, which opened the hinge line as much as possible.  I then ironed the film down into the hinge line, first to the elevator leading edge and then to the stab trailing edge, and then up on the flat portion of the stab trailing edge as far as it would go(about 3/8").  Then I did the same thing to the other side.  I finished by covering the stabilizer on both sides.  This method assured that the monokote seams laid so that the wind passed over, not into, them, making for a smooth airflow.  This method seals the entire hinge line.  It makes for a hinge line that is not quite as flexible as the cloth hinges by themselves, but plenty flexible, and not binding anywhere.  It works best if you use a monokote trim iron which will really crease the nonokote down into the hinge line.  FWIW.......Glen 
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Offline Ralph Wenzel (d)

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Re: Cloth Hinging
« Reply #6 on: April 08, 2007, 06:40:43 PM »
Unless you just want cloth hinges for the sake of having cloth hinges, why not use Over/Under Monokote (or Ultracoat) hinges? If you use the clear "'kote", they're practically invisible, give the same sealed hinge line, and are way less trouble to install, as you just put 'em on over the covering.
 
(Too many irons; not enough fire)

Ralph Wenzel
AMA 495785 League City, TX

Offline minnesotamodeler

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Re: Cloth Hinging
« Reply #7 on: April 08, 2007, 08:32:47 PM »
OK Ralph, see my reply #3, you must be the guy I heard it from...please explain the process in detail, for us "challenged" individuals...(Like, say, me)

--Ray
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Roseville MN (St. Paul suburb, Arctic Circle)
AMA902472

Offline Ralph Wenzel (d)

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Re: Cloth Hinging
« Reply #8 on: April 08, 2007, 10:28:42 PM »
OK Ralph, see my reply #3, you must be the guy I heard it from...please explain the process in detail, for us "challenged" individuals...(Like, say, me)

--Ray

OK, it almost takes longer to describe than to do. These hinges are applied after covering with the film of your choice.

1) Cut two long strips of film covering, about 1/2" - 3/4" wide, depending on control surface thickness. For ½A's, 3/8" is wide enough.
2) Peel off the backing from both, and lay one strip adhesive-side up on a piece of glass (The adhesive won't stick to glass!)
3) Lay the other strip of film adhesive side down, with the desired amount of overlap - 1/4" is plenty; perhaps 1/16" or 3/32" for ½A
4) Set your Iron on the "adhere" setting, not on the higher "shrink" setting, and iron the two pieces of film together
5) Now cut the strips into "hinges" about 3/4" wide (1/2" for ½A's
6) Apply the hinges, with your iron on the "adhere" setting, over-and-under and side-by-side just like you used to do with cloth hinges. They should be very close to each other, without actually rubbing against each other. Don't pull them super-tight, just don't leave any slack. This will give you the greatest freedom of movement.

You can use Clear film, which won't cover up any designs on the surfaces, or use the same color as the surfaces and the hinges virtually disappear. I haven't tried it yet, but I imagine the use of Monokote Trim Solvent would obviate the need to heat-seal the hinges to the surfaces, and possibly result in an even neater, faster job! This would require the use of Monokote Trim Sheets; the kind with the sticky adhesive.

I have had exactly one Monokote hinge "failure". When the Cardinal crashed, the outboard wing broke completely off, and that broke all the hinges on the outboard flap. All the hinges on the inboard wing, and the stab-elevator were intact, and it was one impressive crash! I have a lot of faith in these hinges, even for large planes, as with increased wingspan comes more hinges!

One of the chief, and almost automatic, benefits of this system is a sealed hinge line, with no extra effort and no ongoing maintenance.

(Too many irons; not enough fire)

Ralph Wenzel
AMA 495785 League City, TX

Offline minnesotamodeler

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Re: Cloth Hinging
« Reply #9 on: April 09, 2007, 12:26:11 PM »
Thank you.  I'll have to give it a shot.

--Ray
--Ray 
Roseville MN (St. Paul suburb, Arctic Circle)
AMA902472


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