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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Bootlegger on September 26, 2011, 08:29:00 AM
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Guy's when I build my wings using tite bond glue attaching L/E and T/E then capstrips with it, when I put silk, silkspan down that has been wet, I find the joint's where cap strips join l/e&t/e want to "pucker up", in other words lift.
Have you had this problem, and what did you do to correct it??
Thanks a lot, Gil
I don't want to use C A glue for health reasons...
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Titebond is not water proof. Damp covering should not bother it but wet will probably loosen the glue joint when the water soaks into the wood.
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I try to stay away from aliphatic resign glues except for certain applications. I live in a place where it rains a lot and is high humidity. Just not a good idea generally.
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I use tite bond and dont have that problem. I think it has more to do with tight fitting parts and minimal glue.
Also, there should be at least 3 coats of dope on wing structure before applying any wet covering, and that should be enough of a seal to prevent covering from affecting glue joints.
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Titebond has a waterproof version of the glue. Although it should not soften if given plenty of time to dry, at least 24 to 48 hours.
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According to a Titebond tech representative I spoke with, the strength of all the Titebond adhesives are about the same. He told me that the advantage of Titebond III is that it much more waterproof than the others. I might add that those who complain about weight are simply using too much. I find I can properly Titebond two parts and handle them in 5 minutes.
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Do you give the whole framework a couple of coats of non-shrinking dope, or sanding sealer first, before covering?
Cheers
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Randy Powell, we too have high humidity 85-98% isn't uncommon, been using tite bond a number of years, seems that on the last two models that this has happened???
Allen Perret, I have about 4-5 coats of non-tautening dope on the L/E & T/E, ut I don't dope the cap strips.
This time I'm gonna try some poly span and hopefully that will work as it goes on dry, no water at all.
I try to get tight joint's without stressing the joint's.
Sure do thank you fellow's for your responses.
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Do you give the whole framework a couple of coats of non-shrinking dope, or sanding sealer first, before covering?
Cheers
I put about three coats of nitrate dope (nt) on the whole plane before covering.
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That is what I do Larry, somewhere in the vicinity of what I apply, three to five,so that the water doesn't get to it.
Guy's I am still open to suggestions.
I think next build I might try the "more" water resistant glue...
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I build with titebond, or Elmer's yellow glue, extensively...but I usually cover with shrink-a-dink plastic. Still, I wouldn't think a little water would dissolve the joint unless it was really soaked.
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I use the water base glues to put capstrips down. Thin line of glue on top of rib and CA at each end of strip to bond it to LE & TE. H^^
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I also use Ambroid, so what does that say about me?
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If you put silk over undoped capstrips, the capstrips will still show the silk weave when the open bays are doped to shiny perfection.
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I also use Ambroid, so what does that say about me?
That we are alike! LOL!! I recently found some 4 oz. tubes of Sigment on sale so I got 3 of them. ;D Almost out of Ambroid :'( and have been having to use (but I like it!) Elmer's Glu-All.
Ty (or one of the regulars) did a test on weight comparing CA and other glues and didn't see a large difference, but with the starting density of the CA being heavier, I gotta think it is heavier in the end. Maybe not much, but still some. (and every gram counts! LL~
Big Bear
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Guy's when I build my wings using tite bond glue attaching L/E and T/E then capstrips with it, when I put silk, silkspan down that has been wet, I find the joint's where cap strips join l/e&t/e want to "pucker up", in other words lift.
Have you had this problem, and what did you do to correct it??
Thanks a lot, Gil
I don't want to use C A glue for health reasons...
This seems to be an end grain issue with the cap strips and them not being sealed well enough.
Paradoxically it could be solved with a more generous use of glue around those areas.