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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: Tim Wescott on August 31, 2010, 03:54:39 PM
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Any good tips, web pages or photos here on the control hookup with a take-apart wing?
I assume that the normal way to do this for a one-piece wing is to have some sort of removable clip, clevis or ball link on the flap arm. Then one would remove the wing from the fuse part way, reach in and disconnect the elevator, then take the wing off?
I ask because I'm trying to figure out how to make the magic work for an RC-to-trainer conversion that I'm toying with. My special problem (other than not having the gumption to take it out to the driveway and stomp it to death) is that I really want to do it three-line, and it has no flaps. This takes away the convenient joiner at the flap arm.
So:
- Put the bellcrank in the wing, with a pair of idlers for the throttle and elevator rods?
- Put the bellcrank in the fuse, and put the leadout guide on the top of the wing tip (easiest, by far, but ugly)
- Leave a honking big hole in the wing center, and make sure that I've got enough throttle and elevator rod up/down travel to do the hookup?
- Take it out to the driveway and stomp it to oblivion?
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Food for thought. You can still have a flaps arm but just cut it so that it is not connected to the flaps and you can use that to go to the elevator. Problem 1 fixed.
To install the horn in the wing cut the area behind the spar not in front of the spar that area has most o the strength needed for the wing.
As for the throttle I would use some RC pushrod with clevises. Unscrew the clevise at the motor and as you remove the wing it will slide out.
3 I you are handy with electronics use a Basic Stamp microconteroler and have a fly by wire control with potentiometers and servos by far the neatest to use but it will lag a bit. Look at Parallax site.
http://www.parallax.com/ and then you can have 2 wires or a single one and fly by wire all the way.
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Food for thought. You can still have a flaps arm but just cut it so that it is not connected to the flaps and you can use that to go to the elevator. Problem 1 fixed.
That would certainly be one way to do an idler -- maybe the best way. I'd be tempted to do the throttle the same way, only out the front.
To install the horn in the wing cut the area behind the spar not in front of the spar that area has most o the strength needed for the wing.
good point
As for the throttle I would use some RC pushrod with clevises. Unscrew the clevise at the motor and as you remove the wing it will slide out.
3 I you are handy with electronics use a Basic Stamp microconteroler and have a fly by wire control with potentiometers and servos by far the neatest to use but it will lag a bit. Look at Parallax site.
http://www.parallax.com/ and then you can have 2 wires or a single one and fly by wire all the way.
As fast as servos are these days there's no excuse to have a system with noticeable lag -- the engine I'm planning on using will help; it's a 30 year old OS Max with an air bleed carb and considerably lag of its own.
But that's all moot -- I want a three line system for no better reason than because that's what I want!
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Hi Tim,
Here is the perfect solution for our CL Take-apart planes. I use one at each end of the long PR between the flap horn and the EL horn. I have used the plastic version of these for many years in my RC planes. These new aluminum units are even better and they are worth every penny. :-)
Here is the Link:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=&FVSEARCH=sullivan+%3Cb%3Ealuminum%3C%2Fb%3E+%3Cb%3Eball%3C%2Fb%3E+connector
BTW: if you are looking for any ideas on CL take-apart systems you may want to check out the ARF section of SH. We have a good thread on it there with a lot of info. and photos.
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Over the years I've built numerous one piece wing take apart models. The simplest method requires no clips, clamps or anything else. The end of the flap pushrod that goes through the flap horn only needs to be slightly longer than half the width of the fuselage at the flap hingeline position. Once inserted into the flap horn and with the wing attached the pushrod is then captive and cannot come out of the horn. I also always make the bend so that the rod inserts from inside to outside of the the flying circle so that centrifical force is pushing the pushrod into the flaphorn. The rod cannot come out until the wing is loosened and dropped from its seat in the fuse.
Alan Resinger